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Wrong tree?


Farmall Cub
I am feeling like I am barking up the wrong tree. I am having a few problems:

'73 Scout II, 345, Holley 2 Barrel curved point, 47k miles, all original. Gas filter looks clean, new Gas Tank.

Rough start/no start at all once warm-
Recently bought Scout (two weekends ago), finally made it home after rear ended-no damage mechanically- and 2 hour delay letting cool down (3 hours from home). It is tough to start. Turns over fine, will fire up and die. I push the gas a few more times, does the same time. Usually the third time fires up, may still need to feather to keep running. Once it runs to normal operating temp, will not start from stop. Moved from different elevation, adjusted carb. Replaced ignition coil with OEM from Advanced Auto Parts (external resistor required). Ordered Pertronix electric ignition kit, should be here tomorrow.

Acceleration hesitation- When in Park, Neutral, and I press the gas, perfect. Runs like a top. Put it in drive, hesitates anytime I give it gas. If I go slow, and I am no race driver BTW, it is fine.

I am installing the Pertronix kit tomorrow, I have read post after post about resistance wires and ballast resistors. According to the handy dandy manual circuit diagram for 72 and 73 Scout II's, Note 1, I have a 1.8ohm resistance wire running from the ignition to the igntion coil (+). It seems to be a matter of opinion, but should I run the Pertronix red to the (+) on the ignition coil and the black wire from the Pertronix to the (-) on the coil? Or should I bypass the resistance wire and run hot (red wire) from somewhere else to verify 12 V at all times? I am not even sure maximum performance of the Pertronix kit will solve my problems. This is where I think I am barking up the wrong tree, since I don't think this will correct my acceleration problem, maybe not even my hot start problem.

I got a great response last week (sorry, will have to look back to remember who) mentioning gas boiling in intake manifold due to leak in carb accelerator pump. Could this be possible under load only? Like I said, in Park/Neutral with no load, she runs like a top. If I manually change the gears (auto) she also runs fine. I am at a loss, or maybe not.

I am putting the Pertronix kit in tomorrow if it comes in the mail from SSS. Look forward to hearing any advice as always and I will let you know what I find once the kit is in. I feel a Carb rebuild on the way.


Dave Peters

Farmall Cub
How long did the truck sit before you got it? Do a carb tune up. What Mac said. Don't even open the pertronics box until you get the carb working properly. Then return it.

Eric VanBuren

Lives in an IH Dealership
If you have a coil that says "external resistor required" then you need to run the resistance feed. If you don't there is a good chance that the coil will overheat w/o it.

Ignition definitely could be part of your problem, but not likely all of it. If the points are currently clean un-pitted, adjusted properly and the timing set properly the Pertronix will make no difference what so ever in how it runs. If your points are crusty and not adjusted properly then yes the Pertronix may cure at least part of your problem.

The only thing a Pertronix conversion gains you is you won't have to replace the points again, unless of course you leave the key on w/o the engine running. Then you'll be glad you followed their instructions to carry the points and condenser for when it fails.


Farmall Cub
Here we go....

First of all, I have 12V with the ignition set to start, 7V running. Therefore, resistance wire present=checks with manual. Scout would start cold after a little feathering. Runs like a top. Seriously, like off the line. I say this now especially after how she runs now.

Decided to get rid of the points with the Pertronix kit. Pulled the condenser and points. Not much left of the points. Thought to myself at least I am making an upgrade. Followed the instructions and the many posts I have found here. Red wire to (+) on the ignition coil, black to (-). Set Pertronix module using the included plastic .030" piece. Tried to start, will not start. Sounds like the timing is off. How would that be? Pulled the distributor cap, verified everything, set the module closer to the magnet. Actually kicked over, will not keep running and "feels" off. Tried again moving closer, close as can be now BTW, runs now, keeps running. Refer to above comment, sounds and feels nothing like "off the line." In between moving the module closer to magnet (gap), I don't remember which time, I switched over to a 12V jump from the battery to the red Petronix module to see if it made a difference. Seems to make a difference, but like I said, runs rougher than ever before nonetheless.

I am at a loss. What is the proper gap for the module? Any ideas on the timing, rough running? Does the timing need to be adjusted. Why would it run perfect with less than perfect points and run so rough with the kit? I am at a loss. I am all about eliminating variables to solve a problem. I think I am running on more than one now.


Farmall Cub
Sorry Dave, I believe the carb is OK. I want to get rid of this variable first, Pertronix/points right now. Why would this install cause a vehicle in Park that is running smooth to one that is running rough/not so much running rough? Carb is next is my book for the acceleration/hesitation problem.


Farmall Cub
On my Pertronix install I needed to hook the module to power upstream of the ballast resistor to get adequate voltage to the unit.

Eric VanBuren

Lives in an IH Dealership
The installation of the Pertronix has messed up your timing and you'll need to adjust it to get it to run right.


Farmall Cub
Per Pertronix tech support when I was having issues with my install:

"The air gap isn't really that important. Just make sure the gap is under

Update: Attached is a troubleshooting guide that Pertronix emailed me as well in two different formats.


  • 6 & 12 neg-grd test.pdf
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  • 6 & 12 neg-grd test.jpg
    6 & 12 neg-grd test.jpg
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Farmall Cub
KISS....called Pertronix. I put the magnet 'button' upside down. Apparently the notches coincide with the 'lobes' on the distributor cam. Who would have thought? I will try when I get off work and post later what I find. Thanks for all the input fellas.