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J.J.

Lives in an IH Dealership
Joined
Dec 14, 2003
Messages
7,397
Points
113
Location
Castalian Springs, TN
Toby,
it never ceases to amaze me what you got going on in your lab there next to the house. I have a smog pump that came off of my Travelall that you can borrow for alignment use, I want it back when your done if it helps your cause. Since I gotta pick up the Traveler window that you scored for me, I can bring it then, unless you need it sooner.

JJ
 

Monkeyplasm

Farmall Cub
Joined
Apr 14, 2003
Messages
252
Points
16
Location
Nashville,
One o'clock, two o'clock, three o'clock, crap!

Recently I attempted to phase the reluctors on the duraspark distributor conversions.

To do so I needed to set cylinder 8 to TDC. Cranking the engine via the balancer bolt yielded unsatisfactory results. Specifically, the engine turned to a dead stop. It also turned to a dead stop in the other direction after about 300 degrees of travel. Bummin'.

Removed accessory brackets, intake, valley pan, valve cover, header, and head.

Engine now rotates 360 degrees. No debris found in cylinders or head. Plenty of carbon in the combustion chamber and on top of the pistons, Valves move freely. LIfters spin and move in bores. Pushrods and rocker train all OK.

Found a strange failure in the head gasket. I believe it is unrelated to the dead stop issue (which may have been a chunk of carbon). The rest of the gasket is OK. No leakage from the fire rings.

HeadGasketFailure2_zps02e98fe0.jpg


HeadGasketFailure3_zpsac92daac.jpg



The source hole in the gasket is for a water passage. See next picture where there is erosion of the block in exactly that location and shape (front of block). The erosion is on both ends of the head, but not both ends of the gasket.

HeadGasketFailure1_zpsa6f92f39.jpg



Reassembly of the engine offers me the opportunity to provide you, gentle reader, with a picture of how one might employ a visual inspection in determining whether the exhaust crossover is indeed functional. Here is the bottom of the intake manifold. No, that's not a racing stripe.

ExhaustCrossover_zps662ba276.jpg



Yes, I believe the crossover functions well.
 

Monkeyplasm

Farmall Cub
Joined
Apr 14, 2003
Messages
252
Points
16
Location
Nashville,
Thicker than Water

Is that blood?

JJ in TN

Why is eveyone always so surprised when it's not ice water?


While the local environs thawed out, I did a little work on my junk.

I managed to get the alternator bracket spaced off the head, lining it up with the inner crank/WP pulleys. The belt is a random serpentine belt that happens to fit quite well for alternator only duty. There is no tension of the belt in these pictures.

SerpentineInstall2_zps66e50bcc.jpg


SerpentineInstall2a_zps2487449b.jpg



Here's a closeup of the pulley bolted to the waterpump. Notice how it barely fits the inner diameter only after some mill-borne persuasion.

SerpentineInstall0_zpsd9ffb66a.jpg



Sometime in the next couple days I hope to obtain a serpentine-clutch laden sanden style A/C compressor from the junkyard so that I can finalize the passenger side accessory drive.

The driver's side will require a little bracketry addition/customization. I will do just the P/S pump as (1) I have no need for smog/welder on this truck, and (2) I will not produce this dual belt conversion beyond this prototype. AS much as I dislike the silly-long single belt solution, it is quite a bit cheaper than the two-belt solution, plus it avoids some technical hurdles when using other related stock equipment.

Here is where I expect the P/S pump to line up. I didn't get the camera lined up all that well, but it looks like things will align acceptably well. I also hope to locate a smaller diameter P/S pump serpentine pulley for the pump I'm using.

SerpentineInstall2b_zps76978022.jpg


SerpentineInstall2c_zpsa197aad7.jpg



Of passing interest, here is my valley pan of choice. It has a factory bolt on PCV valve adapter plate. I think this will do far better at leak mitigation than the marginal robber grommet of later years.

PCVBolt-In_zps52df98cc.jpg
 

Monkeyplasm

Farmall Cub
Joined
Apr 14, 2003
Messages
252
Points
16
Location
Nashville,
Abject Failure

Having spent an inordinate amount of time perusing the local self service junkyards, plus an equally dishearenting period searching online, I gave up on finding a reasoanbly simple and effective manual serpentine belt tensioner. Thus the backup plan of using the alternator to tension the belt was dusted off and prepped for placement into practice.

As such, I bolted up the CS144 alternator to the appropriate engine accessory bracket and admired its manifest elegance. So as to maintain a snug fit the pivot bolt is 10mm, matching the oem bolt from the donor vehicle. This required drilling out the IH bracket slightly larger (one drill size - perhaps 13/32").

AltArm0_zps8f093bb6.jpg



Emboldened by the resounding victory of installing a pivot bolt (see glorious photo immediately above), I pressed my luck and went straight for the figurative jugular - the tension arm. While I euphorically surged forward toward victory, the alternator took the opportunity to strike back: The CS144 uses a 10mm tension bolt whereas the stock 10SI uses a paltry 5/16" tension bolt. Curses! I'll either have to use a wimpy little 5/16" bolt (boo!) or enlarge the curved slot in the tension arm. Well, screw that! I aint using no candy-arse little 5/16" tension bolt.

Here's the stock arm that's too small for a 3/8" bolt (left) as well as a slightly larger 10mm bolt (right).

AltArm1_zps575473cd.jpg



I used my crappy little 4.5" grinder with a cutoff wheel to tediously if not sloppily enlarge the tension bolt slot.

AltArm3_zps11dca13e.jpg



It took a while and still binds a little at mid-stroke, but it's ok for now. Here's a comparison of stock (top) to modified (bottom).

AltArm2_zps9afd911a.jpg



The stock (top bracket) won't pass a 3/8" bolt. The modified bracket (bottom) now passes a 10mm bolt.

AltArm4_zps64530b16.jpg



Having barely managed to conquer the wily CS144 wily alternator. I took a brief respite to search the junkyard for some Mustang parts for a friend. While there I finally managed to locate a suitably splendid manual serpentine belt tensioner. Had I not spent a bunch of time dicking around enlarging the tension arm slot there is no doubt whatsoever that the manual tensioner would have forever escaped my notice: The world is deliberately set up this way.

OK. Back to a static alternator position with a dedicated tensioner pulley.

Now I found myself in need of a serpentine AC compressor. A litte research indiates that some late 80's and very early 1990's Jeeps have Sanden 508 rotary compressors. The 508 has 5 cylinders and displaces ~8 in^3 per revolution. It's a pretty good unit that's much smoother running than the old Yorks our IHs use. Vintage Air uses it in their kits. It has 8 transverse mounting ears, 4 top and 4 bottom. One can easily find an adapter plate to use it on a York mount. I nabbed one from a 1989 Comanche. From 1989 means R12 refrigerant, so I'd need to switch to R134a compatible oil.

A little more research indiacted that later 1990's Jeeps used Sanden 709 rotary compressors. The 709 has 7 cylinders and displace ~9 in^3 per revolution. Hmmm. More capactiy and runs even smoother (more cylinders), you say? There are a pile of these (with various slight differences - mostly in hose attachments) in 1990's Jeeps. All but the earliest of these will already be set up for the current R134a refrigerant. I got one for R134a from a Jeep Cherokee. I picked the one with the smoothest pulley clutch that still had its hoses connected - hopefully it'll run as is.

The only "problem" with these 709 units is their mounting: They use 4 vertical bolts outside the cylindrical body of the compressor. These vertical mounts are not full height. Your mount will require a curved 'trough' in the center or you'll need spacers under the mounting feet so as to clear the curvature of the the bottom of the compressor body. I had some scrap 1.5" square tubing with perilously thin looking walls so that's what I used. I suspect it'll be OK, or not. Using spacers also provides for adjustability to align the AC pulley with the rest of the engine pulleys.

Of note. the 4-bolt vertical pattern is not square, one of the rear feet is further back than the other. The other three feet look like they'd match the York pattern with only minor massaging - meaning one might be able use three very long single bolts to hold all this together. The stock mounting bolts are some idiot-stick metric size - I drilled out the mounts to clear 3/8" bolts. The careful observer will note that I have not yet slotted my mounting feet for longitudinal adjustability. The stock York mount already provides transverse adjustability.

ACMount1_zpscd8c7715.jpg


ACMount2_zpseef12c61.jpg


ACMount3_zps41b1c77e.jpg



I hope I didn't remove too much material from the midpoint of the vertical mounting channels, thereby weakening the main body. I guess I'll find out if the compresser blows out there. Perhaps 5/16" bolts might have been the sagacious selection. Oh well.

P.S. The stock Jeep mounting bolts are aluminum and may/will break off in the mount on the donor vehicle. Do not reuse them. Instead, throw them at Lee Iacocca.


At long last I done gots me some serpentine pulleys on the crank, water pump, alternator, and AC pump. Time for the idler/tensioner pulleys. Perhaps even a belt!

Here's my first stab at a tensioner/idler mount, replete with unnecessary holes, misplaced holes, and improperly sized holes. It is made from a scrap of 4" c-channel.

SerpBracket1b_zps6c3bc7ba.jpg


SerpBracket1a_zps47cc2022.jpg



Here one can see all pulleys have good belt wrap, there's good belt routing clearance all around, and the manual tensioner adjustment bolt is easily reached from the top of the engine. The alternator can stay in tight to the bracket and away from the inner fender since it does no tensioning work.

SerpBracket1c_zpsf990f38a.jpg



Unfortunately, the tensioner works opposite to the direction of tension on its pulley.

***God Damn It!***

I'll ponder patching this particular perplexing problem promptly, provisional per pending precipitation participation. Pbbbttt!
 
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Monkeyplasm

Farmall Cub
Joined
Apr 14, 2003
Messages
252
Points
16
Location
Nashville,
Craniorectal Inversion Inverted

Serpentine crap is now complete, pending testing at some later date when the engine might happen to run.

The tensioner mount has been redone. It is now built in such a fashion as to eliminate the stacks of 8 and 12 washers used to achieve pulley alignment on the prior incarnation. The changes consist chiefly of a small length of c-channel welded to a 4" plate, plus a small tab to catch the closest bolt of the water pump housing.

Here one can see two of the three AC-ALT mount bolts, plus the water pump bolt. The third AC-ALT mount bolt is behind and does not interface with the tensioner mount.

Idler1_zps4805f32c.jpg



Here the tension pulley bracket is bolted in place and the ALT tensioner arm has been relocated just below its original position.

Idler2_zpsf9d0c1ce.jpg



The tensioner pulley itself in now in place. So as to maintain the given positioning I added an additional nut to the long, threaded screw that adjusts the tensioner pulley. This new nut is held against the top of the tensioner bracket by belt tension. It is located behind the tensioner bracket. Also note the addition of a small angle iron bracket just below the AC mounting surface.

Idler3_zps4034358f.jpg



The small angle bracket ties into the vertical AC compressor mounting bolt as well as the horizontal ALT mounting bolt. Its purpose is to provide a mount point for the idler pulley that provides additional belt wrap on the ALT.

Idler4_zps111f0463.jpg




There are several power steering mounts for the SV 8 cylinder engines. I am only concerned with those of the smog pump' variety. These utilize a two piece bracket. The first piece is cast iron and mounts directly to the driver's side head. It incorporates the actual smog pump mount, plus provides a flat three-bolt or four-bolt mounting surface for attaching the PS bracket. <Some brackets only have three of the four mounting holes drilled and tapped. Perhaps as a cost savings?> There are several (at least three) PS pump brackets. The two late models versions likely to be found on a Scout II are shown below.

The cast bracket can be unwieldy and is prone to breaking at the slotted pump mounting ear. This version uses a bushing in the slotted ear which is prone to rusting into place. This makes pump removal difficult and increases the chance of breakage. Also, overtightening the cast iron mount can lead to breakage.

PSPolyMountCast_zpsb0d69a99.jpg



The stamped bracket is wider, allowing easier pump installation, but it does require the use of a shim(s) to take up the additional internal width. This bracket does not use a slotted pump mount ear but does require the use of a bushing - OR - the use of a pump mount stud shaped so as to eliminate the bushing altogether (this stud has a 'built-in' bushing). This type of pump mount stud will not work with the cast bracket as there is insufficient space.

PSPolyMountStamped_zps99c72d96.jpg



Here are the two brackets side by side:

PSPolyMountCompare_zpsdfc984e1.jpg




Here are the serpentine belts installed and tensioned. The longer AC-ALT belt tensions via the dedicated tensioner. The shorter PS belt tensions via the PS pump itself.

DualSerp1_zpsa0ffe6b4.jpg



These photos show PS belt alignment:

DualSerp4_zpsfd11c4bb.jpg


DualSerp5_zps27b7ff7e.jpg



These photos show AC-ALT belt alignment:

DualSerp2_zps10e25a59.jpg


DualSerp3_zpsd8942bc7.jpg
 

Monkeyplasm

Farmall Cub
Joined
Apr 14, 2003
Messages
252
Points
16
Location
Nashville,
An Update? I'll give you an Update!

Well, my endless free time and endless lack of funds have come to an end; yes, that's an oxy-democrat.

Over the intervening months I had time to install the inner fenders, radiator crossmember and radiator to the the frame - still sans body. I propped it relatively in place and test fit the electric fan setup.

No Go, No Way.

As we're all aware, there's precious little room between the engine and radiator. Well, the serpentine junk didn't gain me any appreciable room and may have actually hurt me.

The proper course of action would be to either use a different electric fan setup or reinstall a mechanical fan. Fat chance of me doing the right thing. Instead I decided to move the engine back to make some room.

As others have done, I moved the engine mount back by one bolt hole or 2.5". The Scout II engine mounts attach to the frame with two bolts spaced 2.5" apart. By welding in some extra frame mount surface and drilling one hole, one may move the engine and drivetrain back.

As it turns out I still had a couple bed mount brackets off my old burned up 150. I modified them for engine mount frame extension duty. All I did was massage them slightly (shorten and trim), weld them on, drill the bolt hole, and have my friend come over and re-weld my suck-arse welds.

Step 1: Remove engine/trans and place it on a pedestal of silken concrete




Step 2: Shorten and trim random brackets from the shed




Step 3: Do a horiffic job of welding in said brackets, note position of hole to drill (green dot)




Step 4: Make template on scrap of AL and drill new engine mount hole




Step 5: Persuade someone to come cover up your crappy welds, mine on top





Following on today, we also tackled the improperly located driver's side body mount. Instead of pulling the upper body mount and toe board panel and the lower body mount, we chose to cut off the front of the lower mount and weld in a new brace panel that gives some clearance for the actual body mount nad lift block. You can see how close to the front of the sheet metal the body mount sits.








Based on this cumulative negative experience, plus the major fiasco that was the subsequent attempt to install the passenger rockers, kick panel, and body mounts, I'm left wondering if this body won't find its way to the scrap yard next weekend. It would have started its journey there today if there was enough light left.


At some point I have to cut my losses on this ****-box of a body; and maybe the entire project, too. The whole IH/Scout thing has become a millstone around my neck; it's lost much iof its appeal as of late.


So, umm, anyone have a Terra or Traveler body in Very Good to Excellent condition, steel or fiberglass?
 

Monkeyplasm

Farmall Cub
Joined
Apr 14, 2003
Messages
252
Points
16
Location
Nashville,
Rinsing, but do not want to repeat!

I'm left wondering if this body won't find its way to the scrap yard next weekend.

Didn't happen that weekend. With the arrival of fresh meat, this is now slated for 2-3 weeks out. Tucker, you better get up here and start cutting out your patch panels.

So, umm, anyone have a Terra or Traveler body in Very Good to Excellent condition, steel or fiberglass?

<Crickets Chirping><Crickets Chirping><Crickets Chirping>

No surprise there.

So I went on craigslist and found a Terra plus a Traveler tub in TX. Typical "was going to combine the best of the two" story. I called the fellow and he was moving the following Thursday (8 days out): Crusher bound unless I come ghet them. Well crap, San Antonio is only 83 trillion miles away and I'm sure the Jetta will tow two Scouts just fine on a 20 foot trailer.

A couple hurried inquiries to the fine folks of the several Scout clubs in TX and Tres03 agreed to go retrieve them both that weekend (father's day weekend, no less) in exchange for the Terra. Strangely enough that's not the shortest I've ever owned a binder.

Happily, one of the Gulf Coast fellow was simultaneously looking for a load for his empty trailer: TX to PA. With the application of some 'universal gift certificates', this appeared in my driveway today:








For reference, here is a picture of one such universal gift certificate - accepted the world over!




The unload procedure was relatively painless for a frame/body with no drivetrain.

Engine Hoist lifts the rear and is chained to an 'immovable object'.
Front of frame is on two harbor freight car dollies.
Slowly pull trailer forward, stop when dollies are at end of trailer.
Set rear of frame on ***oh yeah, baby!!!***, piles of Cinder Blocks. :punk::banana::bananrap:
Move hoist to front of frame, lift. Remove trailer.

Sometime soon I'll need to examine the body in detail. I already know it's much better than Red Power. *Hey, scrapping the old body means the end of that silly name!* However it will still need some TLC. I think a call to Shady Bobby (a.k.a. Levi) is in my near future.

For those of you who are saddened to the core of your very being at the tragic demise of Red Power, I may have a few leftover pieces suitable for replacement panel or patch panel use at Nationals next month. Perhaps such a memento would help assuage the rending torment you soul is most assuredly feeling now. Or, not.
 

IH1300

Farmall Cub
Joined
Apr 8, 2004
Messages
142
Points
18
Location
Moulton,Alabama
Toby,
You have been quite busy binder nut!!My wife say it`s worst than Meth.By the way your neighbor must love you Like mine love my yard.
Mark
 
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Monkeyplasm

Farmall Cub
Joined
Apr 14, 2003
Messages
252
Points
16
Location
Nashville,
Just ****ing die already!

Spent some quality time with the angle grinder and a pile of cut off wheels.

Die you goddamn wortheless piece of ****ed up of ****! Die! Die! Die!

Note to self: Gotta remember to save the VIN plate.





Notice how the entire upper firewall came apart clean from the lower firewall/trans tunnel? The whole thing was held together, pillar to pillar, by seam sealer and 2 spot welds. Lazy over-entitled suck *** union pigs.
 
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J.J.

Lives in an IH Dealership
Joined
Dec 14, 2003
Messages
7,397
Points
113
Location
Castalian Springs, TN
Toby,
looks like you have been quite busy! Just because Red Power is gone doesnt mean forgotten. Look what happened to me with Fire Patrol..

Don't forget the VIN plate :D

JJ in TN
 

Anthony Weigant

Farmall Cub
Joined
Feb 17, 2008
Messages
301
Points
16
Location
Lascassas, TN
Gentlemen,

I present to you the truly most effective way to release aggression, short of 1000 rounds of .223 and some c-4.

The cut-off wheel tends to give you the ability to completely fill your vendor table at the Nationals.

The .223 and the boom boom brick......... not so much.
 

J.J.

Lives in an IH Dealership
Joined
Dec 14, 2003
Messages
7,397
Points
113
Location
Castalian Springs, TN
Four............:D

14,000!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


By the way Toby, I would suggest that $100 bills are really "Fun Coupons" that are redeemable ANYWHERE :punk:

Are you going to cut up your new to you Travelette the same way?:confused:



JJ in TN
 
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