Saw the question earlier and since I needed to do mine I figured it was a good time. First, the procedure is not in my manual! So I can't tell you if this is the right way, but it is how I did it. The tumbler needs to be in the unlocked position. EDIT....I felt I should highlight this since we are talking about 30 year old vehicles!!!! If you don't know what PB Blaster is...you need to find out!!!!! And use it! I recommend PB blaster in the lock before you start! so. If you look at the bottom side of the handle, there is a real small hole about the size of a paperclip. Now you can use a paper clip, safety wire, or a torch tip file works real good! So you understand, The gold ring at the end is what you are pushing on. It locks the cylinder into the handle. But take a look at the tumblers. They also stick out when the key is not in the lock. So if you don't have the original key you can not retract the tumblers. Well what I did is take a piece of safety wire and slip it into the the tumbler, then I took an old key and slipped it in on top. This was enough to release the tumblers. Then I stuck the wire in the hole and released the tumbler from the handle. So, what happens if the tumbler won't release? plan B. A slide hammer works great. Just make sure you still release the lock ring with the wire. Then you just put the new key in the new tumbler and slip it in the hole till it catches. After you cleaned and lubed it with some graphite. Look close inside before slipping it in. There is a small little tit that has to line up with the back of the tumbler assy. Now for the alternative. Here is the T-handle from Lowes. about $7. that and a piece of alum to make a base and you are set. Just double nut the screws for the handle so they can't be removed from the outside. Then cut the square shaft to length.
The big question is: can an IH tumbler be made to fit and work in the hardware store T-handle? I already have four keys for my Scout (ignition, doors/T-handle, fuel cap, hitch pin lock); all I need is one more I guess if I key the doors to the new ignition lock, I could end up with four keys total. I really like having the ignition key separate from the doors/liftgate (a-la GM style), though.
Very well done, Bill!! This should become an FAQ. I have done this a number of times and the penetrating oil is a very good idea. I have even drilled out enough of the old cylinder to break it up but you have to be very careful or you can destroy the cylinder seating area and ruin the locking function. I looked in my service manual too and could not find this info either. It must have been included with the first replacement set I bought way back when from Rod Phillips at Giddum' Up Scout and I "moved" it in my mind.
2 more tips: Faced with the missing key syndrome, you can use one of the 'wiggle wire' lock picks to get the tumbler pins retracted. The difficulty with this is that you also need to pull on the tumbler while depressing the locking ring. Can you say Three Hands? I am having stellar results using moly/graphite spray lube in lock mechanisms. I have a number of padlocks exposed to the weather, and this stuff keeps 'em working slick. My can is 'Sprayon' brand, FWIW.
Bill, thanks for the great tip. I ran outside and performed magic. two locksmiths in town couldnt get the cylinder out.Using the safety wire trick I now can get into my buddys scout and scoot the seat all the way up, crank the radio. Tom.
If you have a friendly local IH dealer (and I mean a *friendly* one, not just local), they can get them. You can order by key code too and match locks (say you have two scouts and want 1 key to work on all the locks).
