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sd33 rear crank case oil seal

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zen

Farmall Cub
Joined
Mar 9, 2006
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344
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Location
london
its leaking,atleast it looks like it is,cos of where the oil drips,

any sneaky way to change it without complete engine out and strip down??
 

bbellster

Farmall Cub
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Oct 8, 2004
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141
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Location
Lafayette, IN
I just replaced mine less than a week ago and its still leaking :mad: I think that it may be due to the fact that the seal did not protrude from the bearing cradle the 0.5 mm specified in the manual. I ruined the old seal taking it out and didn't have any alternative other than putting the new one in even though it was out of spec. SO, I have no idea what to tell you. I have heard of others replacing seals w/o success. :confused:
But, in response to your question, yes it can be done in vehicle, and it is really straight forward. Just remove the pan, and rear main cap. The cap is a little tricky to get out, but you can use a slide hammer or a bar that will span the cap and some spacers between each end and the block. With a hole drilled in the appropriate spot, place a bolt through the bar and thread it into the cap. tighten the bolt to pull the cap. Once the cap is removed, you can push on one side of the upper seal, and it should slide around and out. Put in the new one in reverse order. Will it seal?? donno
BB
 

dick ardrey

Binder Driver
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May 11, 2004
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907
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nashville tn
It has been done-- drop the crank bearings and get 1/8 + " of drop and run the top of the seal around the top of the crank.
replace the bearing caps while doing the lower half and we used
some kind of GREAT STUFF to seal the crack. The real fix was to releave the crankcase pressure buildup ( as we removed the draft tube) You want '0' pressure in the pan!! If you have a lot of blow by from old rings or a new turbo ect.. you will cause a rear seal leak from a pressure buildup. I would try a oil inlet, strainer, cap type (flame arrester) to increase the vent of the valve cover first.

In my case -- we are using 2 flame arresters screwed into the valve cover and then 1/2"hoses to the air intake BEFORE the turbo (replacing the draft tube)(after 2 big air filters).

lazer
 

zen

Farmall Cub
Joined
Mar 9, 2006
Messages
344
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london
thanks..real glad i asked,as was going to remove engine..:p

i assume you pulled down crank withrods still connected,i guess it will only move a fraction anyway with the trans still connected??

are there any mods that can be done to engine breather on side of engine.(on mine rocker cover breather has 2 pipes,one to airfilter,one to side of engine.)
at present blowby isn't to bad,but soon to have turbo fitted,so expecting it to get worse and loose more oil??
 

zen

Farmall Cub
Joined
Mar 9, 2006
Messages
344
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Location
london
oh..i assume one does the front one too at the same time??or leave it alone if fine??
 

John Donnelly

Administrator
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Woodburn, Oregon
It is not necessary to lower the crankshaft to change the seal. Leave your main bearings alone, unless when you drop the rear cap you see excessive wear, in which case you might as well do an in-frame overhaul.

What is necessary is patience, and the correct parts. Use a genuine Nissan seal, or one recommended by Noordeman Diesel Spares. Do not use some cheapo made in China seal. All the leaky seals I have seen have been due to cheap parts.

Leave the front crankshaft seal alone if it isn't leaking.

Do not use RTV, "Right Stuff" or any other sealant on any of the parts when you re-assemble the engine. All sealants will do is promote leaks. If you use quality parts, and torque things properly, sealant isn't necessary.

The SD33 is machined to aircraft tolerances when it was built. The flatness and quality of surface finish on all the parts in an SD33 is a nice sight to see.

Hence, no goop needed.

-John
 

Marlon

Farmall Cub
Joined
Jun 19, 2003
Messages
63
Points
6
Location
Sherman, IL
John,
Is this job any easier with the tranny out? Thanks.

Sincerely,
Marlon

1976 Traveler Diesel (1 owner)
 

John Donnelly

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Marlon said:
John,
Is this job any easier with the tranny out? Thanks.

Sincerely,
Marlon

1976 Traveler Diesel (1 owner)

No. Once you are under there, and look at it a bit more closely, you will see why. The transmission is not in the way in any fashion.

Probably the only virtue of the IH 10-1/4" long input shaft.

Dieselin',

John
 

BinderMark

Farmall Cub
Joined
Mar 20, 2003
Messages
67
Points
6
Location
Louisburg, KS.
SD33 front crank case oil seal

What about the front seal? How hard is it to replace while the engine is in place in the truck? Does a person need a special puller to get the pulleys off and does the front cover need to come off? Does the radiator need to come out to make it easier or will it come off without that extra work. Lots of questions.
Thanks for the help.
Mark
 
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