Ok so here is my dumb question of the day. My Scout II came with the factory needle nose plyer hood release knob. I purchased a replacement online and am trying to get it attached with no luck. I re-aligned the hood catch so that you don't have to yank the hood release and pry the hood open at the same time. It now pops every time with very little force. This is the standard knob that you'll find on any of the sites, but it doesn't seem to clamp to the end of the cable. Is it because the needle nose plyers have worn the catch surface down, or do I need to do something else to get it attached?
Does the knob have a set screw? I am using the black knurled one from IH parts America and it works perfect. How hard did you have to pull when using the pliers? If it’s hard to pull it may be an alignment issue or maybe the latch needs to be lubed.
It's not the machined knob, but the replica overmolded one with the little metal "clip" inside the hole. No set screws. The pull isn't that hard and I could probably even figure out the force it's so low. The new knob just doesn't really clip on securely.
Ya I'd bet the end of your actuator rod is toast. As the knob should just slip on and be retained by a notch. You then have to press in on the clip to get it to release.
I have metal on my 74,the older ones had a set screw and the newer design doesn't stay on.Are all your knobs the rubber/black style,or all metal ones.
Black plastic. I'm thinking it's shot. Is there a standard way to modify these to stay on and keep the period correct look?
The black replacement knobs never worked for me. I tried everything mentioned above including drilling in a screw to tighten it down more. Still came off. so i tried this stuff. You have to Knead the putty first and I roughened the metal. Crammed the putty in the knob, slid the knob on and have never had a problem since. https://www.harborfreight.com/epoxy-putty-stick-93957.html
Ya but now you have to cut the prick off if you ever have to remove the cable lol! Well guess you could un clip it from the engine bay side and pull it through the firewall.
The molded knob was not IH's finest hour, but with some effort, you can make it work acceptably. I have found that the notch in the rod is critical. File it to a sharp 90 degree angle. There should be a couple on there. Some people have modified the end of the rod for alternate knobs and it can compromise a person attempting to fit a new OEM knob. Also make sure the tab inside the knob is nicely bent to catch the rod. I like to use long cure epoxy as a good measure, but only when the mechanical interface between the knob and rod is correct. If this is all done well, the next error state tends to be the metal tab serrations break away from the plastic knob internals. This renders the knob useless. and it cant be repaired. There is also a TSB from IH that recommended flipping the steel wire around to the other side on the actual hood release assembly. It promotes less pull effort. I think it is a good thing for you to try. Lastly, adjusting the hood pads at each end of the hood so that they provide just enough cushion of the hood is also critical. The more you compress those pads, the more difficult it is to overcome frictional force on the latch mechanism. I liberally use white lithium grease on the latch mechanism. If you experience high pull force on that cable, then something is not adjusted properly or your cable itself is bound up with excess friction. My best advice for you is to do all the above and purchase a spare knob and put in your glove box. You never know when you may need it.
Ok. This explains why the PO had a pair of vise grips handy when it came time to pop the hood. I'm sure the end of my cable is mangled real good. Add another thing to the "to do list". Lol...
