Scout II Cold Stalling

Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by Tremor, Sep 10, 2020.


  1. Tremor

    Tremor Farmall Cub

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    Hey everyone, After getting my project Scout II driving I am now experiencing another issue. For reference, it's a manual 1978 with a 2bbl holly and I am now experiencing consistent stalling when trying to put it in gear, both first and reverse, or coming and stopping at an intersection unless im throttling hard with the clutch in. After driving for 10-15 minutes all is ok and no stalling when coming to a stop. I know this is could be a million different things but I was wondering if anyone had ideas. I'm including 2 photos from under the hood due to having some lines cut when emissions were pulled from PO and incase a needed vacuum line was cut. Thanks again everyone, I'm kinda at a loss on this one.

    Sam
    IMG_5820.jpg
    IMG_5876.jpg
     
  2. BuyingBinder

    BuyingBinder Farmall Cub

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    Looks like the vacuum line to the distributor. Somebody here will know for sure where to connect it. Likely not the cause of your stalling issue though. Cars ran like that brand new in 1973. Modern gasolines don’t help. My advice is rip it all out and go to fuel injection.


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  3. Jeff Jamison

    Jeff Jamison Lives in an IH Dealership

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    That line should hook to a 3 connection thingy that switch's from manifold vacuum to ported as the engine warms up.Its on the passenger side rear of the engine(under the heater hose in the picture it should be) In the second picture the temp sending unit(brass thing) is unhooked) Top picture on the cowl is a black decal thats your vacuum diagram.On the not running right,is your choke closing before you start when you pump it once,does it open up slowly once running.
     
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  4. Tremor

    Tremor Farmall Cub

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    I will have to look tomorrow as I do not have someone to look at when it's running. Your thought is the choke not working correctly?. It will idle for a small period (about 5-10 seconds) before sputtering out slowly unless I give it acceleration which then it comes back to idle and it's a continuous cycle of that.
     
  5. mallen

    mallen Y-Block King

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    That's assuming that vacuum line was plugged. If there's an open leak at the carb, that's them problem. Cars on 1973 came with vacuum advance. I've never seen one without. My advice is to definetly NOT rip it all out and go fuel injection. Then your likely to STILL have a vehicle that won't run right, but now you have three new problems on top of that and you have no idea whats caused by the fuel injection system and what's caused by the previous problem because it NEVER ran right. Before making modifications, get it running right. Then when you install the fi system when it doesn't run right (and it won't) you know YOU caused the problem and that the problem lies in the stuff you just installed.
     
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  6. Patrick Morris

    Patrick Morris Lives in an IH Dealership

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    Hey Tremor. I thought we'd sorted this out in your previous thread. As Jeff said, that one in your hand is your vac advance. It could connect to a thermal switch on the manifold, or as I was saying early, it could connect directly to the port at the front of the carb, the one under the float bowl. Depends on the year and how the Scout was set up.

    Why don't you have a look at that sticker I mentioned before, maybe take a good pic of it and post it here?

    tremorEngineBay.png
     
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  7. Patrick Morris

    Patrick Morris Lives in an IH Dealership

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    And as mentioned above, I'd wonder about if the choke is adjusted and running correctly when the engine's still cold. I find it hard to imagine that a 2210 carb would stall while the choke is set. Engine should be turning a minimum of 1600 RPM at idle for the first 10 minutes or or more of engine run, if started from cold.
     
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  8. INT77345

    INT77345 Farmall Cub

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    yes on the choke. i believe you need more choke us this as a guide for your carb. once you get familiar with your card and what everything does it becomes simple to understand when less choke or more choke is needed ETC
    https://documents.holley.com/3-711instructions.pdf

    also if it was mine, i would re do the vacuum lines. yours has T's and caps, and screws for caps. it might all work ok, but it wouldn't hurt to clean it up and get it hooked as close to factory as you can. you had a smog pump at one time, use the vacuum diagram near the cowl and this one also it shows the 3 prong temperature vacuum switch. that switch is genius when hooked up and functioning it will advance your timing at idle when cold, that will help keep the RPM up
    vacuum line calif.jpg
     
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  9. Tremor

    Tremor Farmall Cub

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    Im attaching the photo of the vac setup below. The only reason I brought it up on this thread was to give reference to the issue in the small chance that they were correlated. On the vac advance, I'm pretty green to working on my scout but for the life of me cannot find an open port on the carb to put it on. Though it was removed without checking before I got it I believe the PO actually had the line running to the air cleaner housing on a small looking port. I'm not sure if this sounds crazy but that seems like the way it might have been. But on the idle stall, I'm pretty sure the choke was set incorrectly. I'm going to mess around and adjust it more tomorrow to see if I can get it in the right range. Think I found the correct adjustment points but if anyone knows where exactly it would help a bunch besides just the shop manual generic layout that I have.

    Thanks,

    Sam
    IMG_5980.jpg
     
  10. winchested

    winchested Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    The Holley 2300 is not an emmisions capable carb. The spark vac port is crap hence why I run my vac advance on manifold vacuum.

    If you want to run emmisions garbage go back to the 2210 carb.
     
  11. Patrick Morris

    Patrick Morris Lives in an IH Dealership

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    You can't see it because it's hard to see. The correct port is on the front of carb base, directly under the float bowl. Look at your diagram. There is already a hose attached to it apparently. It goes to toward the back and out of the picture. I'd assume it must go to a thermal switch, also indicated in the diagram as an optional case. They hose coming from the distributor must attach there. See the pic below. E and D correspond to the hose labeling in your factory diagram. Make sure that Hose 'F' (not seen in the pic below) is also connected where it should be. Hint: go buy some vacuum hose.

    OPTIONAL config: Since the hose routing described above is only used on AC equipped engines, and your AC was obviously yanked out, you could just disconnect 'D' from the temp switch and connect it onto the distributor's Vac Advance. In other words, remove your existing Hose 'E' and reattach hose 'D' there. This basically turns Hose 'D' into a Hose 'C'.

    Be sure to LEAVE HOSE 'D' CONNECTED AT the CARB. If you pull the hose off that nipple it's a pain to reconnect later without lifting up the whole carb a little. Not much "finger room" under there.

    ?? He is not running a 2300. The engine still has the stock 2210 on it.

    VAC ADVANCE HOSES FOR TREMOR'S 2210 CARB:

    tremorEngineBay2.png

    OPTIONAL:
    tremorEngineBay3.png
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2020
  12. Tremor

    Tremor Farmall Cub

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    Alright, I ran the line and switched them as you recommended and it seems to be correct. Definitely going to buy some spare vacuum line and re cap some hoses and re-run some of those sketchy looking screw caps. On the cold idle as I think I said earlier some of the adjustments on the carb seemed to be a bit off. After adjustment feels like it's not as often stalling. I should mention the scout hasn't been running for a few years so I assume bad gas could also be in the mix. Hopefully after it's driven more often and some more fine-tuning with the carb it should be good. Thanks again
     
  13. Patrick Morris

    Patrick Morris Lives in an IH Dealership

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    Wow, let's hope so. Gas sure doesn't age like wine unfortunately.

    Gotta make sure at least the choke is correctly for now. And that means making sure settings are correct on both the right and left side of the carb. The settings are clearly described in the FSM. I don't have that in front of me at the moment. Maybe someone else can chime in, or I will get back with info sometime tomorrow.

    To Illustrate (not my carb):
    tremorEngineBay5.png
     

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