BinderPlanet.com

Welcome to BinderPlanet.com the World's Premier IH Website.

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Scout II 5.9 Magnum 408 Project

2021 Arizona International Harvester Rendezvous

Lars-S

Binder Driver
Joined
Jun 11, 2020
Messages
891
Points
93
Have a small window this morning before work and Airgas opens early but is closed on Sat/Sun so will run over and get more Argon..

Later in Day Edit:
Was able to get argon.. Just closed up for day but won't try and do any welding as major boomers are lurking and well the TIG arc is powerful enough as is LOL

I did prep the middle butt weld I will be doing of the new patch bottom panel to the old top panel on the front of the inner fender.
I have a big clamp holding it together and a smaller c-clamp keeping it tight at same level.. will do a bunch of tacks then alternate until its done.
It is a really tight fit so fusion should be enough but I am not worried about looks here so I may use some filler as needed to keep it same thickness.
This is a nice long flat section so the training wheel should work good on it.. I used my HF 1/2" thin belt sander to give me a good clean surface to TIG

Front-Inner-Top2Bot-Seam.jpg
 
Last edited:

Lars-S

Binder Driver
Joined
Jun 11, 2020
Messages
891
Points
93
😱😩 All that work getting the two pieces clean and lining up and I start blowing holes and can't get even a simple tack weld to not look like crap..
No leaks, change settings up down, and no change, new filler rod, new tungsten, ..what the ..
Well seems the gas distributor is now using the same colors for their bottles .. I was trying to TIG weld with Nitrogen
Lucky they didn't give me Oxygen..
the label is the same color too so unless you read what's on the tank.. sounds dangerous to me .. said soon all be be painted gray.

Dang.. well hopefully I can save it so it doesn't look too bad.. Plus it is in an area that looks wise doesn't matter..
ARRGH!
 
Last edited:

Lars-S

Binder Driver
Joined
Jun 11, 2020
Messages
891
Points
93
Showed my welds to my neighbor along with how I was grinding the tungsten TIG tips.. After he stopped laughing about the Nitrogen gas..
He suggested I up the flow and go with a bigger cup .. said it would help with all the junk that is now in the welds and keep the area outside of the weld pool cooler.
He said - I will go thru Argon faster but clean faster welds with less heat is worth it.. I agree.
Tried it this morning and wow he was right .. to bad that area got so messed up yesterday ... live and learn .. and learn ... and learn..
Have running around to do this morning but hopefully can get that piece done later tonight then onto other side.
 

Lars-S

Binder Driver
Joined
Jun 11, 2020
Messages
891
Points
93
Sorry didn't take a photo of the disaster with massive holes, pin holes, and crud. No stacked dimes looked more like one of those buildings they dropped in place with explosives LOL LOL

So I hammered down as much as I could the crappy welds. Strangely the back side looked fine.. Their was a lot of heat shrinkage contraction so I wanted to stretch the bad weld area out before I tried to reweld or weld over it.. I am pretty happy with the results.. This now needs to be hammered flat and then maybe ground a little but when the TIG is working right there is very very little sticking up unlike the BEADS my Mig would leave.. I found that for a lot of the bad areas if I worked the arc like a broom I could move the contamination out to a edge and then it would vape off.. Lot of good experience and practice here on a section that really will not be visible or is structurally critical (flat panel part).

TIG101-Nitro-Redo.jpg
 

Lars-S

Binder Driver
Joined
Jun 11, 2020
Messages
891
Points
93
Onto the non contaminated side.. This time I started with the butt weld area. I also flapped disc further back to help with only clean welds.. I'm getting really good at regrinding tungsten tips LOL.. it takes a fraction of a sec and crap that ones ruined.. That said this side so far is going fairly good and wait for it .. I laid down a section that is basically flat.. I'm so proud of myself LOL LOL

TIG101-FinallyOK1.jpg



Yes my dimes wander but they don't look like mole hills ha ha
 

Jeff W

Farmall Cub
Joined
Nov 7, 2019
Messages
223
Points
43
Onto the non contaminated side.. This time I started with the butt weld area. I also flapped disc further back to help with only clean welds.. I'm getting really good at regrinding tungsten tips LOL.. it takes a fraction of a sec and crap that ones ruined.. That said this side so far is going fairly good and wait for it .. I laid down a section that is basically flat.. I'm so proud of myself LOL LOL

View attachment 211273


Yes my dimes wander but they don't look like mole hills ha ha
Not too shabby....My brain says it looks like if you got something slick to slid your torch hand on it might straighten up the path a bit....maybe make some sort of bar with feet at either end for stability. Just a thought
 

J.J.

Lives in an IH Dealership
Joined
Dec 14, 2003
Messages
7,302
Points
113
Location
Castalian Springs, TN
Zoowie on the tank! That doesn’t make sense to paint them all the same!!

Welds are getting better too!!

JJ in TN


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Lars-S

Binder Driver
Joined
Jun 11, 2020
Messages
891
Points
93
Not too shabby....My brain says it looks like if you got something slick to slid your torch hand on it might straighten up the path a bit....maybe make some sort of bar with feet at either end for stability. Just a thought
Thank you for feedback with suggestions .. more in a second lol
Welds are getting better too!!
Thanks .. definitely a learning hand/eye/brain exercise ..

The last welds I posted are only a 1/4" wide at the widest point so definitely not too shabby LOL .. Part of the wavy is that since this is a thin sheet metal butt area, more like 18 than 14 since I ground both sides to get clean metal, I was moving from side to side rather than traveling down the center. This seems to help with preventing blowing holes through where the two edges meet. I'd like to try using a copper slapper behind to see if that helps.. Once I get the Pulse technique sorted out that may also prevent it. I did finish the entire length of the butted ends so now will go around the outside edge (after I hammer them -stretch - down a little) .. In one area I laid down an 1" long length that is 1/16" wide and perfectly straight ... don't know how that happened LOL LOL.

Late in Day PS Edit:
Finished welding the other side front inner fender main support area.. Next up .. make the inner fenders to attach to the front sections.. Not much fabrication but a lot of welding.... and both sides need to be redone..
 
Last edited:

Lars-S

Binder Driver
Joined
Jun 11, 2020
Messages
891
Points
93
Here's a shot showing the welds around the bottom and outside of the front inner fender support.. I am not going to grind these or dress them up any further. This new panel is thicker than original and welded on versus a few spot welds so it should be fine.. It won't be visible for all practical purposes.. I am happy with this construction for a daily driver vehicle.

TIG101-Frt-botWelds.jpg
 

Lars-S

Binder Driver
Joined
Jun 11, 2020
Messages
891
Points
93
Wish the CJ5 could hold the bigger tanks safely as I am already down to 500cf of Argon.. Hope to get the lower sections of the inner fenders all shiny clean to weld the repair pieces in/on.. May make a trip to local HW store and/or metal supplier to get a couple of 3' lengths rectangular carbon steel tubing.. Going to be another humid one though so will be moving slowly LOL

Mid-Day Edit:
That worked out well. I was able to get an 8' length for cheaper than a 6' or getting it cut down to 2 3' lengths.. It also was cheaper than what I was coming up with online even without shipping.. I was expecting to pay about $33 for each 3 ft piece. Instead I got the entire 1/8" x 1.5 x 2 - 8' piece for that price. Its heavier than I thought it would be but it can be drilled and tapped which is nice..
 
Last edited:

Lars-S

Binder Driver
Joined
Jun 11, 2020
Messages
891
Points
93
I cut the tubing for the tower sections to length (just a tad over 32" on this scout). Unfortunately I forgot, probably since I cut it straight, that almost an inch of the bottom of the tower section on the drivers side was removed.. I did that since the driver side had so much heavy rust on the towers and inner fenders.

The passenger side isn't a straight cut but the wobble in it is still fractions of an inch (weldable).. This is good as that is the side that has the circular openings for the heater & fan blower.

So since the driver side tower is all flat pieces do I just remake a whole new one or add 1" strips to it on both sides near where it would meet the inner splash metal?
That's a lot of long welds so it may be better just to bang one out of new(recycled) sheet metal.. I could buy one from several of the vendors but that means weeks of postponement and the cost for something that isn't complicated in design..

I miss having a real garage with work benches, ample room, good lighting, and protection from the elements though can't escape this humidity and heat..
 

Lars-S

Binder Driver
Joined
Jun 11, 2020
Messages
891
Points
93
Just got back from supplier.. dumb dumb didn't take measurements with him except overall size..
They didn't have any 18ga remnants and to get it cut to size came to $55 so I got a 16ga remnant for $33.
Guys told me they could bend it for very little. Its the cutting charges that wallop you..
If I had brought the measurements then they could have bent it too probably for less than getting the 18ga.
I still will have to cut the 16ga as its 15" longer than I need but that will be a nice size to be able to make other pieces with.
Maybe after I cut it down to correct size and mark it up I will run it back over and have them put the two 90's in it. Wham bam done.
 

Lars-S

Binder Driver
Joined
Jun 11, 2020
Messages
891
Points
93
Half a day later and still have not cut sheet let alone taken it to be bent..
I measured, remeasured, marked, remarked and before I made a cut I decided to make a cardboard template that could be folded to simulate the bends..
Well marked and remarked that, cut and remarked , bent and re-bent and re-bent again, and compared to sheetmetal markings and towers themselves..
Glad I did because I still do not trust it though it is closer... I am going to run out and get some poster board so I can make a fresh one with minimal markings and bends.. I already used acetone to remove marks on sheet metal..

This is why make it out of throw away no $ stuff and then out of the good stuff.. Even then make it a second time out of the cheap stuff to make sure it doesn't need to be redone to get it right.. But then you all know that LOL as well not doing this for a living LOL ..

Front-Inner-WR1.jpeg
InnerFender-WR2.jpeg
InnerFender-WR3.jpeg



End of Day Edit:

Two sheets of poster board later. Fortunately were a 2 for 1 price. And tons of tape, cuts, remeasure, trim, etc I now have a good template to use to cut the sheet metal.. The gotcha it seems was that while the one edge looked square it wasn't. It had just the slightest angle to it in both directions (bowtie) which, ok these eyes aren't that great anyway lol, did a perception trick on me.. The bowtie end meant I couldn't get the towers two top 90 degree bends to work.. All good now. Took a whole day but didn't use up any Argon :O) Surpisingly the sheet metal I got for that price was CRS too which is great. The 16 ga on the side the battery and other stuff is fastened to is also a plus.. Might of gotten done quicker but the thick humid air was(is) making it dificult to breath.. next week should be a lot better YEA!

Thur Morn Edit: Got the piece cut need to bend or have it bent but have some online orders I need to get done and shipped and tomorrow store is open til Sun.
 
Last edited:

Arkansas Dave

High Wheeler
Joined
Apr 9, 2004
Messages
2,180
Points
113
Location
Pottsville, AR
😱😩 All that work getting the two pieces clean and lining up and I start blowing holes and can't get even a simple tack weld to not look like crap..
No leaks, change settings up down, and no change, new filler rod, new tungsten, ..what the ..
Well seems the gas distributor is now using the same colors for their bottles .. I was trying to TIG weld with Nitrogen
Lucky they didn't give me Oxygen..
the label is the same color too so unless you read what's on the tank.. sounds dangerous to me .. said soon all be be painted gray.

Dang.. well hopefully I can save it so it doesn't look too bad.. Plus it is in an area that looks wise doesn't matter..
ARRGH!
Lars sorry I laughed but I haven't had a laugh like that in a long time just imagining your face when you seen what the label said was probably priceless. I am sorry
you messed up your work but glad you didn't get something else worse hooked up to that machine. Be safe and keep up the good job.

Dave
 

Arkansas Dave

High Wheeler
Joined
Apr 9, 2004
Messages
2,180
Points
113
Location
Pottsville, AR
Here's a shot showing the welds around the bottom and outside of the front inner fender support.. I am not going to grind these or dress them up any further. This new panel is thicker than original and welded on versus a few spot welds so it should be fine.. It won't be visible for all practical purposes.. I am happy with this construction for a daily driver vehicle.

View attachment 211327
Lars the welds are looking good allot better than my dirt dauber welds looks good.

Dave
 

Lars-S

Binder Driver
Joined
Jun 11, 2020
Messages
891
Points
93
Just had the 16 ga bent. They did one 90 but not enough room to do the 2nd. They were able to do about a 45 which gives me a nice straight crease in it that I can now hammer over the rest of the way.. Took them a total of 5 min and cost me all of $14. Definitely the better way to go than trying to put both of those bends in myself using clamps and pieces of iron.. I probably should have had them put the 3rd bend in too but I was thinking I can do that.. since they already had metal in brake would only have added a few $ more .. I can be so stupid at times LOL LOL.. Guess arogantly stubborn would be a better qualifier :clown:
 

Jeff W

Farmall Cub
Joined
Nov 7, 2019
Messages
223
Points
43
Just had the 16 ga bent. They did one 90 but not enough room to do the 2nd. They were able to do about a 45 which gives me a nice straight crease in it that I can now hammer over the rest of the way.. Took them a total of 5 min and cost me all of $14. Definitely the better way to go than trying to put both of those bends in myself using clamps and pieces of iron.. I probably should have had them put the 3rd bend in too but I was thinking I can do that.. since they already had metal in brake would only have added a few $ more .. I can be so stupid at times LOL LOL.. Guess arogantly stubborn would be a better qualifier :clown:
I think it's more along the lines of being able to step back and look at the final product with pride and say, "I built that"....Also, arrogantly stubborn is a prerequisite for tackling these kinds of projects 😂
 

J.J.

Lives in an IH Dealership
Joined
Dec 14, 2003
Messages
7,302
Points
113
Location
Castalian Springs, TN
I think it's more along the lines of being able to step back and look at the final product with pride and say, "I built that"....Also, arrogantly stubborn is a prerequisite for tackling these kinds of projects 😂


exactly, well put sir!

JJ in TN
 
Top