Scout 800 345 Baja race build

[Wyattbradford01]

I moved this post here from a different thread. Sorry im new to this platform and still figuring it out. I don’t mean to start a bunch of the same threads.

Anyways, I’m going with the 190170 cam and 924-16 springs. 741-16 retainers and 612-16 keepers. I dropped the engine off at the machine shop last night. Everything looked good in my eyes (cylinder holes, cam, heads, valves, no bent pushrods, etc. he’ll let me know this week what sizes for everything I need. I’m just going to have him touch the seats and re use the old valves as long as they aren’t burnt or bent. I’ll attempt a port and polish myself. I am wanting to deck the block .40 but am skeptical I will run into clearence issues. What do you guys think? I know it’s a common thing to do and most people have done it. No problems? It would be useless to go with this cam setup if I didn’t raise the compression, and I think this is the best way. I’m trying to build an 800 race scout for the Baja races. I already got the body off and am currently working on the frame and obviously getting the engine built. Im headed to Baja this weekend to watch and get more info. I plan on building the cage myself, I own an exhaust shop and run a bender throughout the day. Let me know what you guys think. All advice welcomed

I will be building the scout based off of the pioneer 4x4 class for Norra. Which means that most things have to stay stock. Shackles and perches can’t be moved. Rear shocks cannot go through the bed floor, solid axles, no reservoir or coil over shocks, and a couple more things. I will get to that later but for now I am working on getting the engine built and re enforcing the frame/body mounts. Norra states the distributer must be mechanical. So I’m not sure if I’m allowed to use a 12v distributer like Hamilton or Mallory (I have both). Someone let me know on that.

 

[NorOntSCout]

Maybe check Anything Scout's YouTube channel, i think they did series about building a Scout II for the NORRA run

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[Patrick Morris]

Shackles and perches can’t be moved. Rear shocks cannot go through the bed floor, solid axles, no reservoir or coil over shocks, and a couple more things.

Unless they changed the rules, for Pioneer 4 x 4 class, it's:

• 2” max shock diameter, no coilovers, no bypasses

So rezzies are fine, at least. Sean ran dual Bilstein 5100s + rezzies all around, in last year's race. You can go with those, or better yet, with Bilstein 7100s or Fox 2.0 "Factory" shocks, both of which are easily tunable and rebuildable. Kings are good obviously but are pretty expensive by comparison. You plan on getting sponsorship from any companies?

 

[Wyattbradford01]

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Unless they changed the rules, for Pioneer 4 x 4 class, it's:

So rezzies are fine at least. Sean ran dual B5100s + rezzies all around last year. You can go with those, or better yet, with Bilstein 7100s or Fox 2.0s (I recommend the "Factory" kind, which are easily rebuildable). Kings are pretty expensive. You plan on getting sponsorship from any companies?

I’d be glad to get sponsors but I’m not going to rely on anyone to meet my end goal. I will however try my best to put my project out there on social media/online in order to gain some sponsors if possible. I’d like to get a little deeper into the project first so people can see that I am serious.

 

[Lars-S]

See Anything Scout yesterday posted video on their 196 build .. appears they now have an aluminum manifold for it and will be using it at NORRA again

 

[Tom Mandera]

I will be building the scout based off of the pioneer 4x4 class for Norra. Which means that most things have to stay stock. Shackles and perches can’t be moved. Rear shocks cannot go through the bed floor, solid axles, no reservoir or coil over shocks, and a couple more things. I will get to that later but for now I am working on getting the engine built and re enforcing the frame/body mounts. Norra states the distributer must be mechanical. So I’m not sure if I’m allowed to use a 12v distributer like Hamilton or Mallory (I have both). Someone let me know on that.

I think that just means you need a distributor. No crank fired ignition, no coil-on-plug.

So points, Pertronix, Hamilton, Mallory would all be fine. Hamilton would be nice, being new, but a points distributor with a Pertronix would provide redundancy (put the points in the glovebox, not that I have had a Pertronix failure)

Shackles and perches can't be moved - so no reverse shackle? RS helps with some of the abuse. Bummer if you can't swap the stock mounts end to end, like I did.

Rear shocks - you can build the axle truss low and wide, which is a ground clearance killer, but it also means you can get longer shocks in the back without cutting the floor. You can also angle them inboard to the center, or you can get about the same by angling them forward.

Definitely go with, as Patrick suggests, the 2" diameter and a remote reservoir if you can.

Can you go to full width axles, if the perches stay stock? That's what I did - SOA with full width axles. I used a Chevy front and Travelall rear, but you could also do an IH Travelall front/rear - the extra width means more stability, and the SOA meant more suspension travel with the same stock springs and stock suspension (just on the wrong side of the axle tube)

I'll have to go read the Pioneer rules. I've gone so far on my second attempt that I'm afraid I'm well out of Class 3 and into Trophy territory if I headed down south..

 

[Patrick Morris]

Here's that vid on the intake manifold. We saw pics of it last year sometime. That's a LOT more carburetor that the engine came with. I like that it's modular. You could if you wanted, make a different top piece. The carb mount area. for different fueling. E.g., a couple of nice downdraft Webers :

 

[Wyattbradford01]

Thanks, I was worried about the distributor specifics. I’ll definitely run the Hamilton in the race Scout. I have a 76 terra with a fully rebuilt 345 that I’m finishing up right now. I’m hoping I can use that for the chase truck, and I’ll be using the Mallory distributor in that.

I’ve read mixed reviews on the spring over vs spring under. I’ll have to find the forum, it was on binderplanet. I’ll definitely be going with 2 2 inch shocks in the front and hopefully 2 2 inch shocks in the rear if I can fit them. With reservoirs. I’ll likely go with Deaver springs because they can really help me get the specifics down in terms of leaf rating and shocks.

I’ll have to read up on if I can swap axles. If I stay with IH Dana 44s then I would imagine I should be fine. The scout 800 axles I have currently are fairly rebuilt. Rear 44 front 30. Should I even consider closed knuckle axles or swap to open knuckles? Pros vs cons? At a minimum I would swap the front to a 44.

Anybody have a set of 9 bolt rocker arms? I have a few pairs of 5/6 bolt only. $$

 

[Wyattbradford01]

Current status of the Terra chase truck 345. Just waiting on intake gaskets then I’ll drop her in.

 

[Wyattbradford01]

I think that just means you need a distributor. No crank fired ignition, no coil-on-plug.

So points, Pertronix, Hamilton, Mallory would all be fine. Hamilton would be nice, being new, but a points distributor with a Pertronix would provide redundancy (put the points in the glovebox, not that I have had a Pertronix failure)

Shackles and perches can't be moved - so no reverse shackle? RS helps with some of the abuse. Bummer if you can't swap the stock mounts end to end, like I did.

Rear shocks - you can build the axle truss low and wide, which is a ground clearance killer, but it also means you can get longer shocks in the back without cutting the floor. You can also angle them inboard to the center, or you can get about the same by angling them forward.

Definitely go with, as Patrick suggests, the 2" diameter and a remote reservoir if you can.

Can you go to full width axles, if the perches stay stock? That's what I did - SOA with full width axles. I used a Chevy front and Travelall rear, but you could also do an IH Travelall front/rear - the extra width means more stability, and the SOA meant more suspension travel with the same stock springs and stock suspension (just on the wrong side of the axle tube)

I'll have to go read the Pioneer rules. I've gone so far on my second attempt that I'm afraid I'm well out of Class 3 and into Trophy territory if I headed down south..

Hey Tom, I got my 262/262 isky 190162 cam in yesterday. Do you usually remove the inner springs when breaking in a cam? Or maybe use the old springs? Thanks let me know your input.

 

[Wyattbradford01]

Hey Tom, I got my 262/262 isky 190162 cam in yesterday. Do you usually remove the inner springs when breaking in a cam? Or maybe use the old springs? Thanks let me know your input.

924-16 springs

 

[Chris Cooper]

Thanks, I was worried about the distributor specifics. I’ll definitely run the Hamilton in the race Scout. I have a 76 terra with a fully rebuilt 345 that I’m finishing up right now. I’m hoping I can use that for the chase truck, and I’ll be using the Mallory distributor in that.

I’ve read mixed reviews on the spring over vs spring under. I’ll have to find the forum, it was on binderplanet. I’ll definitely be going with 2 2 inch shocks in the front and hopefully 2 2 inch shocks in the rear if I can fit them. With reservoirs. I’ll likely go with Deaver springs because they can really help me get the specifics down in terms of leaf rating and shocks.

I’ll have to read up on if I can swap axles. If I stay with IH Dana 44s then I would imagine I should be fine. The scout 800 axles I have currently are fairly rebuilt. Rear 44 front 30. Should I even consider closed knuckle axles or swap to open knuckles? Pros vs cons? At a minimum I would swap the front to a 44.

Anybody have a set of 9 bolt rocker arms? I have a few pairs of 5/6 bolt only. $$

Maybe use the 5-pedestal ones with bolts in the unused pedestal locations like my old 304’s builder did?

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[Tom Mandera]

Hey Tom, I got my 262/262 isky 190162 cam in yesterday. Do you usually remove the inner springs when breaking in a cam? Or maybe use the old springs? Thanks let me know your input.

You SHOULD remove the inner springs (or use the old stockers).

As to what I usually do? I replace the cam two or three times in short order because I'm too lazy to use the lighter springs AND because I used gone-to-junk Sealed Power lifters..

Three cam swaps in 50 miles didn't save me any time..