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Rocker panels just dont fit

Binder TV

Branden292

Farmall Cub
Joined
Nov 28, 2018
Messages
38
Points
8
Location
Spencerville Ontario
Door, Fenders, Inner fenders, braces, doesn't matter, nothing is helping me, the new inner and outer rocker panels just dont fit, seem to fit fairly well to the A pillar dog leg, I would prefer if it was closer, but I cant get it as close to the B pillar dog leg, cut, grind, beat with a large hammer, nothing I can do can fix this, this is the closest I can get it and its frustrating, its right against the center cab mount cross member, what do you guys suggest I do?
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Last edited:

Jeff W

Farmall Cub
Joined
Nov 7, 2019
Messages
223
Points
43
Is your A and B pillars parallel up n down? Rocker panel at a right angle with the A pillar or B pillar? should be or at least very close to it. Looks like you got em real close...I actually ended up cutting my doglegs that I couldn't get to clamp down tight and rewelding them to get that tiny bit more so they would lay flat against the rocker. I would say if your door fits good and you're happy with the gaps, modify those suckers to fit good. I think over time with all the rusted out mounts and sag some tend to bend out of original shape.

And don't forget to notch those rockers to recess the front and rear quarters flush
 

Branden292

Farmall Cub
Joined
Nov 28, 2018
Messages
38
Points
8
Location
Spencerville Ontario
Is your A and B pillars parallel up n down? Rocker panel at a right angle with the A pillar or B pillar? should be or at least very close to it. Looks like you got em real close...I actually ended up cutting my doglegs that I couldn't get to clamp down tight and rewelding them to get that tiny bit more so they would lay flat against the rocker. I would say if your door fits good and you're happy with the gaps, modify those suckers to fit good. I think over time with all the rusted out mounts and sag some tend to bend out of original shape.

And don't forget to notch those rockers to recess the front and rear quarters flush

Thank you for your input, the door doesn’t close well, I have to lift up on it to latch it, I’m going to have to put in more work getting the body even more square I think, I’m pretty sure the biggest problem is that a body shop had started work on this before I got it and replaced a bunch of things with generic sheet metal and steel then the PO got divorced and had to pull the scout out of the body shop before it was completed


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mongocanfly

Y-Block King
Joined
Nov 5, 2017
Messages
3,786
Points
113
Location
Alabama
That's the sad part of trying to undo what's already been done..if there's been a bunch of metal replacement done ,it sounds like that may be the root cause of all your issues...that's why it cant be stressed enough that before anything is cut loose,there needs to be a whole lotta X bracing going on..making sure doors open and close properly,gaps look good,etc etc...before anything is cut...without physically seeing your project , we can only assume what happened...but I'm betting the issue goes back to the bodyshop work done before you took over..
 

Branden292

Farmall Cub
Joined
Nov 28, 2018
Messages
38
Points
8
Location
Spencerville Ontario
That's the sad part of trying to undo what's already been done..if there's been a bunch of metal replacement done ,it sounds like that may be the root cause of all your issues...that's why it cant be stressed enough that before anything is cut loose,there needs to be a whole lotta X bracing going on..making sure doors open and close properly,gaps look good,etc etc...before anything is cut...without physically seeing your project , we can only assume what happened...but I'm betting the issue goes back to the bodyshop work done before you took over..

I hear ya, I appreciate the help regardless


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Lars-S

Binder Driver
Joined
Jun 11, 2020
Messages
891
Points
93
that's why it cant be stressed enough that before anything is cut loose,there needs to be a whole lotta X bracing going on..making sure doors open and close properly,gaps look good,etc etc...before anything is cut...
And many years later I may finally get around to fixing/redoing a Scout which I did not do those needed steps to. Definitely good advice to listen to and apply
 

TravelerMan79

Binder Driver
Joined
Apr 15, 2020
Messages
764
Points
63
Location
Ottawa, ON
Don’t forget these things were assembled in the 70’s where they essentially didn’t give a damn and quality control as we know it today did not exist. I wouldn’t be chasing my tail with trying to get everything square and true. Best is to make sure body gaps match as best you can do, and worry about everything else later. The metal shop owner where I got some replacement parts recently told me he personnally worked on three cars from the 50s’ where the left and right body mounts were out by 1/2” on the body. You cannot expect these cars/trucks built during these times to be built like today’s vehicles. My roof line above my door windows is not the same between PS & DS. Even one of my doglegs is spot welded on crooked. I’m guessing it was done like that because the body/rocker was out a bit.
 

Lars-S

Binder Driver
Joined
Jun 11, 2020
Messages
891
Points
93
Don’t forget these things were assembled in the 70’s where they essentially didn’t give a damn and quality control as we know it today did not exist. I wouldn’t be chasing my tail with trying to get everything square and true.
LOL and the factories knew it.. Here is a shot of the rear of one of the inner splash fender towers.. Notice the slots!
Those are 3/4" by 3/8" slots ... bit of adjustment there LOL LOL .. and the doors (in , out, up , down , forward, back) yep those were the days LOL

Adjustment.jpg
 
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