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Rebuilding a Truck Avenger Carb; What am I doing wrong?

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TCRIMSONK

Farmall Cub
Joined
Jan 10, 2005
Messages
264
Points
16
Location
Frederick, MD
I got this Holley Truck Avenger carb used. It's been sitting on the shelf for a few years, so I decided to rebuild it before trying it out. I may even sell it, if I can find a smaller spreadbore carb for my 345.

Anyway, I'm following the directions that come in the Holley Trick Kit, and got stuck on this one:

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/5EWosTZnkf16MUsiWuYTvmGLvu4NAsGCvM1B_CrxEv4?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_wua0dPIQaag/TWyUD4-1knI/AAAAAAAAA6s/OW8iCswREnw/s400/floatDirections.jpg" height="400" width="328" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/WigfieldDarren/DropBox?authkey=Gv1sRgCMXgppPxlv4n&feat=embedwebsite">Drop Box</a></td></tr></table>

The problem is, when I tighten the float adjustment screw all the way in, it still doesn't contact the float as seen here:
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/kAQyugGDnoaA1T5Za9ZfhL1qOXrbwn1BwLg1Xh0TbLQ?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_wua0dPIQaag/TWySGcdjPfI/AAAAAAAAA6Q/B8LXiBMeVtc/s400/P1010092.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/WigfieldDarren/TruckAvenger?authkey=Gv1sRgCOKo9Nyl0aCMvwE&feat=embedwebsite">Truck Avenger</a></td></tr></table>

I tried taking the lock nut off of the adjusting screw, which does allow the valve to contact the float correctly, and does allow me to adjust it to be level with the top of the bowl. (bottom of picture, since it's upside down)
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/bBdsFR6LH0aiuPhrWYIgP6De-CxRm7CaaMwxU5Bj1lg?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_wua0dPIQaag/TWySerDkFPI/AAAAAAAAA6c/ok_IX2_3lvw/s400/P1010095.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/WigfieldDarren/Ta?authkey=Gv1sRgCJ7P1rf00MLyhgE&feat=embedwebsite">ta</a></td></tr></table>
(Note that the material you see around the head of the adjusting screw, where the nut would be, is gasket that comes with the Trick Kit)

So the problem is, the directions clearly show the nut in place, and the float being engaged. What am I missing? Did I assemble the float valve pieces incorrectly? I'm very new to carburators, so I wouldn't be surprised if I'm missing something obvious. Thanks, everyone.
 

IH64Scout

Dreams of Cub Cadets
Joined
Apr 13, 2004
Messages
4,683
Points
38
Location
Jessup,PA
Are you using the spring loaded needle and seat? I think the kit comes with 2 different needle and seats for different style carbs. Could just be you need the longer one. I've experienced this before, but being I've been in the diesel for a while my mind is foggy on how I fixed my flost issue.

-Jon
 

TCRIMSONK

Farmall Cub
Joined
Jan 10, 2005
Messages
264
Points
16
Location
Frederick, MD
The needle/seat are spring loaded. The kit came with a set that are the same size as the ones that were already in the carb. I've tried both, and neither allows the needle/valve/seat to contact the float.

Whether they're for adjusting or locking, the screw and nut are both all the way in, as you can see in the middle picture of my first post. Still, there's at least 1/8th of an inch between the valve and the float, and I'd still need another 1/8th inch for a reasonable adjustment range.

I did get the carb used, so perhaps the PO put an incorrect valve in, but it seems strange to me that both the carb and the kit have the same valve, neither of which engages the float.
 

250gibson

Binder Driver
Joined
Aug 17, 2005
Messages
582
Points
0
Location
Bucks County, PA
The parallel flot adjustment is a bench adjustment holley gives as a starting point. It is never correct as the fuel/float level still has to be adjusted via the sight hole once the carb is installed and running.

What I would do is turn the needle and seat in as far as it will go allowing enought room for the nut to grab and turn the seat. Don't worry if it isn't parallel. Tighten everything up. Install the carb and take the sight hole plug out. Crank the engine to get fuel in the bowl and the engine to start. If fuel spurts out of the sight hole, then you need to get a longer needle and seat. If the truck won't start or idle, back the needle and seat out about a quarter turn and try again. (only loosen the screw just enough to turn the nut and retighten after each adjustment, you will get fuel seepage, from the area, so keep a rag on hand). Once you get the truck to start, adjust the needle and seat so that the fuel level in the bowl is just touching the threads on the sight hole. Replace sight hole and tighten everything up.
 

250gibson

Binder Driver
Joined
Aug 17, 2005
Messages
582
Points
0
Location
Bucks County, PA
Just looked at the pictures again. I misunderstood. I thought you could get the needle to touch the float, just not adjust it parallel. So in your case, you need a longer needle and seat.

Being a used carb, you never know its history. The previous owner may have tried to rebuilt it using the same kit as you. When it didn't work, it got shelved, and sold to you.
 

57plymouth

Farmall Cub
Joined
Feb 13, 2011
Messages
13
Points
0
Location
Blythewood, SC
Did you order the kit that matches the list number on the choke horn? It looks like you have center hung needles in side hung bowls. The side and center hung needle and seat assemblies do not interchange.
 

Thomas

Dreams of Cub Cadets
Joined
Jan 24, 2002
Messages
4,750
Points
48
Location
Friendship, WI
---There is only one type of needle and seat and even the aftermarket parts have the same height. I have the alcohol rated, the off-road and the standard needle and seats and they are the same length. What you have is a carburetor that was beaten up while in shipping or storage. It is not a big deal. What you need to do is:

---First* I'd get rid of that float and buy a Holley 116-4 (AED 5350) brass float.

---The tang/saddle is almost non-existent. To get that float to set right, screw out the needle and seat until it is on it's threaded in half way and then bend the tang on the fuel bowl... only the part that contacts the needle, about 1/16" at a time, until when inverted, you start contacting the needle. Then adjust the needle and seat to get the float parallel with the top of the bowl (inverted).

---I'd say what happened was it got bumped around one too many times and the tang bent from the abuse. This is why carburetors are not suppose to be tipped upside down. Worse happens if UPS got to hold it at their hub over the weekend, and use it for rugby, bowling or shot put practice.

---I'd also get rid of the under-sized hairpin and install an E-clip to retain the fuel bowl.

---While the reusable needle and seat gaskets are nice, some are way too thick. I use some that are even thinner than the paper gaskets. They're almost like the plastic from a window on a box that lets the kids see the "fantastic toy inside!". Not sure what they're made of or who made them. I have had the same gaskets for near 20 years in a box of carb parts... and that is all that ever graced that box, so it's not anything that fell into it accidentally.
 
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