Randomly looses power to wipers and gauges

I searched for an answer before posting.

1980 diesel Traveler.

Occasionally looses power to gauges, wipers, turn signal indicators, but NOT the turn signals or other exterior lights.

I would like to get out and work my butt off to troubleshoot this but I am so busy I am really hoping for a solid answer about what is wrong and the best way to fix it.

Can't find a solid cause but once today they were off for a bit and only came back on after I had shut everything off for a few minutes. Another time they came back on while I was driving.

 

ignition switch

 

Turn signals would be lost if it were ignition switch related...otherwise I'd say you're on to something.

If nobody else gets it pinpointed before tonight, I'll try to dig out the schematics and see what I can figure out.

 

Grounding in the dash panel

 

That sounds highly possible, and what I nearly suggested. If the column switch ground is separate, that would certainly explain why the turn signals still work, but the other dash mounted goodies are dead.

 

A friend suggested that on the 1980 it could be that the fuse block isn't screwed down tight. Does this sound like a possibility? Why would this be different on a 1980?

The truck has air-conditioning so it is tough to see under the dash, the fuse block should be in the same spot as a 1976, right?

 

possible that the main contact on back side of fuse panel is loose, seen that once or twice.
seen fuses pop out and vibration makes or breaks contacts.
but wiggle your ignition lock key and same time be watching the dash and moving turn signal lever and other accessories. that tells you right there and then if its the ig switch.. no question about it . .
the wire pak that holds the harness wires to the ignition switch could be loose, also.
some of those accessories work whether the switch is on or not, others -[most the ones you have trouble with] get power thru the switch.
and a worn switch can have dirty/worn contacts which can exhibit just your symptoms.

 

---Well I joked about 10 years ago and a couple times between that when one person's acts up, it's time to check others' (E.G., One's "Gold Box" fails and causes others' to, One's Rear Wheel Bearings start raking, another's follow suit).

---Right now I'm seeing a lot of threads related to bulkhead connectors and ammeters acting up. I would say check those first and then be sure you have good grounds. I gripe too much about how steel is an ineffective ground, so I just figure I am one of few that really care if power can complete it's cycle. Also, as stated, ignition switch would cause turn signals to go out as well.

---Fuse panel would be on the bulkhead/firewall. Pop the hood and look behind/under the brake master cylinder for the wiring harnesses that come out of the firewall, kinda between the parking brake and brake pedal IIRC. The other side of that will be your fuse panel, inside the cab.

---Fuse panel design was changed in 1979 to a big, bulky plastic connector, which in the back, is where the wiring harness plugs into from the outside. Same crappy design GM had on their vans if you ask me. Vans were well known to start on fire there too. Black dielectric grease like a tar is found inside there, between the terminals. Often times it gets hot, melts/drips/disperses/seeps in between terminals and prevents continuity. I would pull the fuse panel & connector, pull one terminal at a time and clean it and it's slot in the connector/block, then gently squeeze the knurled/rolled portion of the female terminals with a pair of lineman's pliers to snug them up, apply dielectric grease to all terminal slots, reinsert the terminal, making sure it locked in place, and after cleaning/adjusting/etc. each terminal slap it back together.

---Did the gauges fall or did the ammeter peg out to the Charging side? Did you have the heater on? They changed design on the heater controls no? Is the heater fuse getting hot? Will check the wiring diagrams on the 1980 and see if it's set up the same as the 1978- Scouts. A lot have, including mine (StoneThrower prior to rewire), had issues with the what... #14 circuit(? ) melting the insulation... Battery Feed Connector & Dash Instrument/Illumination Connector

 

I am almost 100% certain it is the ignition switch, yesterday morning everything wasn't on when I was leaving the bank and I wiggled the ignition and it came on. I wiggled it some to see if I could get everything to turn off again with no luck but I think I saw some flickering with the gauge needles, hard to tell because it is a slow motion flicker.

What am I looking for as far as what needs to be repaired? The cylinder feels a tiny bit sloppy, enough for me to wiggle it, not enough that I would have noticed it was loose. Is it a worn contact?

Thanks for the help

 

My Terra does the exact same thing and it's the ignition switch. More than likely if you just readjust the switch the problem will go away. I just have to find the time to do the adjustment. But since it easy just to reach down and move the key back a hair to get things to work it may be awhile.

 

buy a new ignition switch and put it in. PROBLEM SOLVED.
of course its worn contacts..

its NOT THE KEY LOCKCYLINDER. thats worn out from dangling 20 pounds of keys and kitchen sink on the key chain while a key is in the lock cylinder.
THE IGNITION SWITCH ISNT PART OF THE LOCK CYLINDER.
the switch is half way along the steering column length, on top of column.

 

JAY, or anybody else, can you POINT me towards a GOOD place to buy an IGNITION SWITCH?