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Project Oil Burner

2021 Arizona International Harvester Rendezvous

dkterra

Binder Driver
Joined
Aug 1, 2007
Messages
589
Points
18
Location
Lodgepole,Ne
Lookin good Levi! Afraid to show ya my booger body welds.
With the stance of that bad boy, I'm surprised ya didn't put the fuel access lower on the fender behind a fuel door. Still an awesome build.
Just a thought, not trying to nit pick at all bro. :beer:
 

oldironoffroad

High Wheeler
Joined
Sep 22, 2007
Messages
1,441
Points
38
Location
crossville,tn
Hmm that is actually a good idea! Really never considered it. I may end up putting a lockable hummer style cover on it. We shall see.
 

oldironoffroad

High Wheeler
Joined
Sep 22, 2007
Messages
1,441
Points
38
Location
crossville,tn
Update time. Continuing on from where we left off there was still some sheetmetal work that needed to be taken care of. The pasenger side wheel well needed to be opened up, quarter reworked, the old gas filler filled, among a few other things. So back to work.

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Didn't get a shot of the welds smoothed out but this give you an idea of what it took to get it done.

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Gas filler hole

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Before the quarters were welded back to the tub everything got a coat of POR 15 just to help keep rust at bay in the future.

After the sheet metal was pretty much squared away we moved on to the fun stuff. The engine. First we had to reclaim the 4 banger from its current home so we could begin mock up. The engine had previously been installed in a 1971 c20 pickup. Up untill the point of removal the engine was running well other than some oil leaks at the turbo.

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This 4bt was mated to a chevy trans so the adapter and flywheel to run a chevy NV 4500 was already there. There are several ways to mate the NV to one of these engines but since these were parts that we already had we decided to use the chevy NV with the gasser input shaft. With the trans adapter and bellhousing on the bench the first obvious problem was the slave cylinder wasnt going to bolt up without some work. I had to be carful though because the area I was removing material from was home to one of the starter bolts. So after several marks and trimming with a carbide bur we were looking good.

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The clutch slave cylinder and master is a standard setup from a mid 90s cheby pickup with the NV4500.

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With the trans mated to the motor it was time to set it in place to get an idea of where the mounts needed to be. It would have been ideal to have the tcase mated as well , but we are not sure if we are going to do a 241/205 doubler setup or just run the 205 so I will figure out that part of the puzzle later. The biggest concern I had was keeping enough room on the pasenger side to be able to cleanly route the exaust between the tub, bellhousing, and starter. One benifit to using the dodge adapter is the starter is on the driver side, a luxury we didn't have. Another thing we had to deal with is some of the trans adapters for these motors have a tilt to them. The engines were installed on a slant to allow hood clearance in some applications. I didnt want the motor tilted and I didnt want the trans tilted so I split some of the difference so it wasnt as obvious from either side. What I ended up with was about a 4 deree tilt on the motor and a 6 degree tilt on the trans.

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Doesnt look like it but a 3" should fit.

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With the motor spaced where i wanted it it was time to come up with some mounts. For the rubber isolators we used a set that were for a first gen dodge pickup with the 4b's big brother the 12 v cmmins. From what I have read these arent the greatest at keeping the vibes down, but they are captured unlike the liquid filled isolators that can be used. Simply meaning that if you go upside down and they fail the motor wont fall out. This problem with the liquid mounts can be overcame but requires either some trick mounts or the use of turn buckles and or chains to keep things in check should they ever let go. so trying to keep things as clean and as simple as possible I searched to the ends of the intrawebs for a set of motor mounts that I liked. When it was all said and done I came back to a set the was built by a member on the planet Randy Groenhof. Randy is an awesome fabricator so I gotta give credit to the design of these mounts to him. Here is my spin on the ones he built.



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With the frame side built the motor was set back in place and the motor side mounts started. The driver side was pretty simple but the passenger side was a bit more difficult due to the fact that it had to be built around the starter.

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I didnt grab any pics of the driver side installed for some reason but here it is out on the bench after finish welding and smoothing.

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After all that was done out came the motor again for some cleanup, gaskets, and new clutch stuff.

New rear main

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Valve cover stripped for paint.

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Nv all purdied up

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The old clutch that came out was in decent shape , but there was some obvious slipage and heatchecking going on so an upgrade was in order. The flywheel was resurfaced, a new pilot installed, a heavy 12" centerforce clutch installed. Also the NV recieved a new pivot ball along with new fork and throw out.

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Here is the setup mated back up after clean up and paint. The engine also recieved a tab to retian the killer dowel pin.

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Before the engine could be reinstalled the frame needed some finish welding , the shackle angle finalized, and the trans tunnel and firewall bedlined. No the factory crossmember will not be used. it was used to mock the motor up only.

In this pic you can see where the frame was also plated to cover and strengthen the frame where the previous attempt at a through frame reverse shackle was made.

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Frame painted nicely

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Firewall bedlined. This is color we will be using on the interior as well. The outside will be the factory green.

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Motor back in its home.

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oldironoffroad

High Wheeler
Joined
Sep 22, 2007
Messages
1,441
Points
38
Location
crossville,tn
Had some pics I havent posted so thought I would put up a quick update. With the motor now in its new home it was time to take care of some of the little details. First the hydroboost was remounted and a new corvette mastercylinder installed. Also as you can see from the pictures all new brake lines were bent up and installed.

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The pedal box was removed and the inside of the firewall sprayed with some UPOL

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In order to start working on the roll cage I wanted a dash in place just to keep thing lined up and out of the way. So I pulled an old dash out of the parts shed. Cleaned it scuffed it and shot it with some semi gloss. Also Pulled the old column out to make way for a tilt unit.

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Here is a quick shot of what I managed to work out for the clutch linkage.

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Before we get to out of order the NP205 was installed temporarily to check clearances and build a new crossmember. While trying to install the 205 I realized that some of the floor trans tunnel was going to have to be adjusted for thing to install properly.

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After a little work we were looking like this

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The stock crossmember wasnt going to get it so I got to work on a new tube crossmember. The crossmember is 2' .120 dom.

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Crappy pic of it installed

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One final quick pic. The cage is an old D and C kit that was purchased by Dwain sometime ago. After some adjusting here is the rough in of it. We are planning some adding some things later on in the build.

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:beer:
 

oldironoffroad

High Wheeler
Joined
Sep 22, 2007
Messages
1,441
Points
38
Location
crossville,tn
I have been super busy in the shop with some small projects that keep coming in but have some updates for this on I thought I would share. The turbo was in need of a rebuild so I sent it off for a refresh. After getting it back it got a couple coats of IH red and reinstalled

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All new hard lines for the brakes were bent up and installed.

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Dwain had already purchased a 19 gallon poly tank so it was installed with a new sender and hoses and a factory skid plate cleaned up, painted, and installed.

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A set of inner fender were trimmed, cleaned, prepped, painted, and installed. The front fenders were then mocked up to see what needed to be trimmed. Again on the fender trimming Dwain wanted it to look as natural as possible so I got to work again cutting and welding.

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Obviously from the other pictures you can see the engine compartment also got treated to some other goodies. The first being a new aluminum radiator. On a new radiator install especially on a trail rig where the frame and core can flex and possibly rip the tanks from the radiator I like to install them with some bushings. I use just a standard GM wiper motor bushing with the metal sleeve removed and notch the mounting ears so the radiator is able to have some float. I have been beating on my trail rig like this for some time now and knock on wood no failure yet.

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With the inner fenders back on it was time to start rearranging things in the engine compartment. We are adding dual optima batteries on this rig and they are both going to be relocated to the passenger side and contained in a ruff stuff battery mount. The heater box was cleaned up and painted. I also moved the washer bottle over to the driver side.

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The turbo to intake pipe was cleaned up, painted and reinstalled with some new black silicone hoses. I also got the down pipe made. As bad as I didn't want to cross back over the bell housing there was just no way it was going straight out the driver side. I had the foresight to leave clearance between the starter and firewall , but clearance between the frame and the 205 was only about and inch. Now I am not great at math but I just couldn't figure out how to fit 3" into 1". The other options which weren't really options were outside of the frame rail somehow, and or below the frame rail which neither option appealed to me. So with a couple of pre bent pieces of three inch exhaust I made it work. The pipe will be coated with some sort of high temp coating and then wrapped.

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And that brings us back to the last of the drivetrain components to be permanently installed is the 205. The 205 we are using is the long input flavor so to be mated to the nv4500 it requires and 1" 5/8 spacer which we sourced from Advanced Adapters.

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While we had it on the ground we went ahead and modded the front shift rail to allow all the different shift rails. This mod applies to all 205's so If you got an IH pickup this mod may be for you. There are plenty of threads on this on Pirate so I wont go into detail just cover the basics.
The front shift rail is the one you are after. It is closest to the input. First you need to remove the detent plug and the frost plug. On the divorced units the frost plug will have to be driven into the case and then retrieved later. If it is a married unit you just pull the little rubber plug.

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Here you can see the two holes in the top of the case. The threaded hole is the where the detent ball and spring are. They both need to come out. The bottom smaller hole is where your frost plug will be.

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Now if you look into the hole with the front shift rail in neutral you will see a roll pin that holds the shift fork to the rail. With a punch knock it into the case. Again don't worry anything that falls into the case you can simply remove the pto cover and retrieve it. Now that the roll pin is out you can remove the shift rail. The shift rail has to be ground. Again for exact measurements just do some research, but I believe the middle slot was 7/16 and the end was 3/8.
Ground shift rail.

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Here you can see the roll pin that was knocked out resting inside the case. Now just put it back together the way you took it apart and make some shifters. More on the shifters next time that's all I got for now.

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guidolyons

High Wheeler
Joined
Jul 5, 2006
Messages
1,862
Points
63
Location
Corpus Christi, TX
Looking good Levi:beer:

Not sure how I missed seeing this one.

I'm running a combo 57" Ford Ranger/Bronco II springs out back in my '65 Scout 80. I think they'll be fine for the oilburner. The Bronco II springs are the same length as the Ranger springs, but softer. They sagged too much, so I swapped in a set from a Ranger and added a leaf from the Bronco II spring pack.

Nice and long and flat, they flex pretty well. Cheap and easy to find, too.
 

oldironoffroad

High Wheeler
Joined
Sep 22, 2007
Messages
1,441
Points
38
Location
crossville,tn
Thanks Guido. Glad someone is watching!!! :beer: Got a few quick pics to post up. I have had a ton of other projects in and out of the garage so not a lot of time for this one lately. Anyway managed to get the 205 twin stick stuff finished up and the 205 installed. The kit is an ORD setup. Really nice!! Also got the turbo return hose bolted in with some new hi temp silicone hose and was able to do a test fire on the engine.

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Power steering cooler

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Here is a video of the test fire.

[youtube]TbY7C-Wjvgk[/youtube]
 

oldironoffroad

High Wheeler
Joined
Sep 22, 2007
Messages
1,441
Points
38
Location
crossville,tn
Update time.... well past due actually but......... With the drivetrain in its home and happy it was time to finalize some of the final mounts for the tcase. The 205 is not the lightest of transfercases in the offroading world. I really didn't like the idea of the hunk of iron hanging off of the back of the NV so some flat plate and tube later I made a pto mount to help support the beast.

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Then we moved on to finishing up the anti wrap bar. A poorly designed wrap bar will limit flex so after looking around at mount ideas I settled on a Blue Torch 1/4 elliptic shackle. Another removable crossmember was built and installed as an attachment point. The wrap bar itself is built from 2" .250 wall DOM..... It ain't goin no where.

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Painted and installed

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Also here you can see the heavy duty rear diff cover.

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With the underside mostly buttoned up I moved on to finishing up some of the cage and building some seat tie ins. Pretty basic just added some diagonals here and there to stiffen things up.

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Also went ahead and put in a set of dog legs from SSS. They are pricey but really nice pieces of metal!!

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oldironoffroad

High Wheeler
Joined
Sep 22, 2007
Messages
1,441
Points
38
Location
crossville,tn
Before this thing goes off to paint I thought it would be a good idea to test fit the doors seeing as how we have cut on this thing quite abit. A little tweaking and adjusting I got them lined up nice and shutting well.

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Then I got the Corbeau mounts built and the seats installed.

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Test ride!!!

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Last 2 for now. Couple of randoms. Dual battery mount from ruffstuff and a hi steer started. Stay tuned!!! :beer::beer::beer:

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The lower tie rod is an old crappy one just to set the toe so I know how long to build the new one.

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oldironoffroad

High Wheeler
Joined
Sep 22, 2007
Messages
1,441
Points
38
Location
crossville,tn
We left off the last update with getting started on the hi steer. With the big ole 39.5 tires on this guy we were also gonna need some assist.... So a box was sent to west texas offroad for a port and tap and a rebuild. With the box and a shorter drop pitman arm installed we were able to build the draglink also.

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With the lower coolant ports on the radiator and motor being on opposite sides we needed a clean way to get coolant from one side to the other. So again I turned to a previous design built by Randy on previous build we built a coolant crossover/ straight steer bar out of some flat plate and heavy walled tubing.

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installed

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Moving right along to finish up most of the motor stuff I started building an air intake. Dwain had mentioned the possibility of adding a snorkel, or at least keeping the intake as high as possible. So we decided the cowl would be a good place for it to go. With some 3" exhaust tubing and silicone elbows we started working on it.

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Power steering cooler plumbed

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Next up we were ready to get some work done on the interior to start making things Purdy so it got pushed outside and the cage was removed for finish welding and paint. Also you can see body work has begun.

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With the cage out it was finished welded, primed and painted. Then we got started on the interior.

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While it was outside I hit the underside and engine bay with a little pressure wash to knock some of the dust off...... Purdy......

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oldironoffroad

High Wheeler
Joined
Sep 22, 2007
Messages
1,441
Points
38
Location
crossville,tn
With most of the body work finished attention was turned to the interior. A lot of sanding, cleaning, seam sealing later we have....

this

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Next was time to make the trans tunnel cover work out with the twin sticked 205 and the NV.
A little cut and paste.

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After some sanding and painting you get the finished product. Here you get to see how the color scheme is gonna work together. Satin OD green exterior and accents with a tan interior.

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Anthony Weigant

Farmall Cub
Joined
Feb 17, 2008
Messages
301
Points
16
Location
Lascassas, TN
Levi, as much as I like to pick at you, it doesn't change the fact that you put out some awesome builds.

Question, though, with 39.5's and monster axles, why not just link it?

And how much difference in cost, on average, is it from custom longer packs and new mounts to links? (Like double triangulated rear, missing link front?) I know the cost really goes into shocks on a link system, (and dag nabbitt they are pricey!) but I'm talking just links vs springs across the board.
 

oldironoffroad

High Wheeler
Joined
Sep 22, 2007
Messages
1,441
Points
38
Location
crossville,tn
Thanks Tony glad you are following along. Honestly when it comes to springs vs. links the price difference is considerable. There are lost of pricey pieces of equipment to purchase for a link setup. A good set of rod ends alone will cost well over what a set of hybrid springs cost. When I say hybrid I mean mixed and matched leaves you build yourself to achieve ride height and spring rate that you desire. Not custom alcans or the likes. Now you can buy a ready made link kit like what ruff stuff sells, but your looking at 1200 for front and back brackets and rod ends not including tubing. DOM 2" 1/4" wall DOM aint cheap$$$$. Then your going to need to build or buy some sort of truss $$$$. Then your going to need air shocks, coils , or coilovers $$$$$$. Then your going to spend time fitting and figuring geometry on the kit. No biggie if your not doing it yourself , but couple in labor $$$$$$$$. You do the math. :D. Performance wise in my mind it really depends on what you want out of your rig. High speed whoops and jumps there is no question which way to go, but honestly a lot of us only see low speed crawling. When I built the linked rear and hybrid leaf spring front for my old rig I can honestly say that the Hybrid 52" springs in the front flexed every bit as well as the double triangulated links in the rear.
 

oldironoffroad

High Wheeler
Joined
Sep 22, 2007
Messages
1,441
Points
38
Location
crossville,tn
Wow. This thread is waaaaayyyyyyyyyy past due for an update. Lots of pics to post. Will try to get them up in the next few days. :beer:
 

oldironoffroad

High Wheeler
Joined
Sep 22, 2007
Messages
1,441
Points
38
Location
crossville,tn
Yeah Guido she is a big girl, but well proportioned :D Actually last measurement with everything in place it is setting with 26" frame height. So not terribly tall considering she is setting on 39.5's . Anyway here is where we are to date. First up was to get some body work done and the majority of this thing setting in primer.

Windshield frame had a few small spots that needed fixed.

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First round of paint was supposed to be OD green. I wanted to get an idea of color so I shot the windshield frame first. Needless to say we were less than OK with the color. Oh well throw that gallon in the trash.

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After some online searching we picked a semi gloss OD that is a resto match for Korean war era rigs. The owner and I were both happy with the results.

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After blocking out the body work we laid the first coat of primer.

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The areas where the fenders were opened up were body worked, blocked, then primed, and blocked again. This thing is gonna be a trail rig and is subject to dent, but we wanted to get it at least somewhat straight.

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Somewhere between here and there the cage was painted and reinstalled.

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The panels were shot in OD and we started putting her back together.

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As you can see in some of the above pics I had already gotten a jump on the wiring. First up on the electrical was a little electric fan action. Picked up a piece of 1/8 " aluminum and had my buddy blast out a nice hole on the plasma table. Then I just hit it with a surface prep pad to give it a brushed finish.

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Fuse panel placement. No emergency brake pedal going in this one so this was a nice spot for it. I have already covered a rewire so I will spare you the boring details.

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That probably brings us to the dual battery setup. Now we can't just add 2 batteries and call that good. Noooooo that would be to easy. So what we ended up with is a dual battery setup with one battery isolated when the truck isn't running. The setup uses a relay , oil pressure switch ground, and a momentary push button switch that can ground the relay to connect the second battery to the system and start the truck if the first battery for some reason leaves you stranded. Here is a link to the diagram of the setup and some pics of the install. All the battery cable is made from 1/0 welding cable. it is nice and flexible and has a heavy tough sheath on it.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/dual-battery-isolated-batteries-winch-welding-1231432/

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engine wiring routed and loomed.

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oldironoffroad

High Wheeler
Joined
Sep 22, 2007
Messages
1,441
Points
38
Location
crossville,tn
With the engine out of the way we were ready for some gauges. So with a call to our friends at IH Parts America we had a panel on the way loaded with ispro gauges.

Gauge panel fitted and dash trimmed.

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Back light tested.

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Installed and working

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A dash pad cleaned up and a rallye wheel cleaned up and installed.

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That's all for now.
 
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