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Project: Hereford (75 Travelette Build)

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Darrel

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They do look decently flat. Maybe Bo can get you a measurement from the frame to the bottom of the spring for comparison.

The nice thing about that taller WFO hanger is that it puts the spring more level with the ground which will give you a better ride and also help when it comes time to set your pinion and caster angles. You can adjust the angles somewhat by varying the length of the rear shackle and the mounting point in the frame. On my Scout I used 4.75" tall front hangers which allowed me to just bolt in my front ford d60 without messing with the perches or using shims to get the pinion and caster angle I wanted.

I would definitely lose the overload and also inspect each leaf for cracks around the center pin. If they aren't perfect maybe switch to GM 52's as they're a dime a dozen.

Looking good!
 

BO185

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Mine is a 73 6'' GM lift springs on stock front hangers and 2ws rear shackle location. I have 35's and its to much lift. Should clear 35-37 easy maybe 38-40's.

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Pictures of mine I can get measurements tomorrow for frame height etc. Let me know what you want.

I think your going to need a longer rear shackle. I started with 3'' shackles and ended up with 4.25;;. Mine still will bottom of frame at times. Also that moved my pinion down low which gives me way to much caster and I get vibrations if front hubs locked above 50mph. I am going to reshim front axle to rasie pinion nose and decrease castor. I do get some death wobble at 30mph but not bad the castor corrector should fix it. Most of it was loose steering links an I think the Zbar I got a raise block for the 60 steering arm to install as well.
I used 1/4'' 2'' wide flat stock to make my shackles. 1 it was cheap and easy to make. I ended up cutting it 8'' long then drilled progressive hole lengths to dial in the shackle height. They work but aren't ideal. I am cuting some 3/8'' thing ones as soon as I get some more plate instock.

Once you get the front you can block the rear or get longer springs or shackle flip it (I did mine but ride sucked IMO went back to stock and got 6'' rear spring and removed stock 4'' block. Mine looks nose high but its the frotn fender openings. The frame sets level. My plan is to actually lower the front at some point vs blocking the rear. As right now mine barely fits in a 7ft garage door. But I have clearance lights that are 2'' or so above cab top.

Also I would remove that overload on the bottom of the spring. Unless you have a plow its not really needed.
 

CazNeck79

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Awesome, thanks guys! Bo, so your cab roof is just under 7' tall? Can you get a measurement from the ground to bottom of front crossmember, where the spring hangers are bolted? My shackles are 4", I had them laying around but I may get longer ones if I need. Thanks!
 

BO185

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Awesome, thanks guys! Bo, so your cab roof is just under 7' tall? Can you get a measurement from the ground to bottom of front crossmember, where the spring hangers are bolted? My shackles are 4", I had them laying around but I may get longer ones if I need. Thanks!
Yeah mine fits in a standard garage door opening. But most aren't actually 7ft some are 6'10'' especially older ones. On my shop door I adjusted the door when open to higher than the header which is 7ft. Its one reason I am not on 36's or 37's lol. But my tires are actually 34.5'' per the book.

I will try to get some measurements today.
 

BO185

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Awesome, thanks guys! Bo, so your cab roof is just under 7' tall? Can you get a measurement from the ground to bottom of front crossmember, where the spring hangers are bolted? My shackles are 4", I had them laying around but I may get longer ones if I need. Thanks!
The front of my frame from concrete to bottom of frame is 30". The frame to top of spring pack is 10" the frame (level section in middle is 22" tall to bottom of frame. That is 35's Gm Dana 60 and Gm 6" lift springs.
 

CazNeck79

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The front of my frame from concrete to bottom of frame is 30". The frame to top of spring pack is 10" the frame (level section in middle is 22" tall to bottom of frame. That is 35's Gm Dana 60 and Gm 6" lift springs.

Thanks Bo. Based on those measurements it appears mine will be right about the same. I removed the overload leafs from the packs but not any other leafs cause they looked too lightweight with less. I think it will ride nice like this.
When I reinstalled the oil pan, I cleaned it and discovered the PO had painted it Chivy orange:nono:. The rest of the motor is :yes: IH red. Didn't really notice until I had it bolted back up:hammer:
 

Darrel

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IH Red is worth 25 horsepower!!!






:)

P.S. Once you get the radiator, misc parts, and a heavy (winch?) bumper installed it just may be perfect for 35-37's after it settles.
 
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CazNeck79

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Yeah, it does have the 2x4 steering box. Had crossover steering from the factory. I will definitely do Parts Mike crossover with one ton tie rod and drag link. Probably high steer too. And now I'm thinking 37" tires just to keep it in perspective. This rig is going to be badass! :whistling:
I'm lucky, I live within an hour and a half of IH Parts, Ruff Stuff, WFO Concepts, and Parts Mike. :sailor:
 

CazNeck79

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I realized that it'll be way easier to install the side motor mount frame inserts before the Dana 60 goes in. So today I removed the 392 out of the travelall parts truck so I can get to the frame inserts that I need. I don't think I'll be using the u-shaped crosmember that attaches between the inserts cause Hereford's already been modified with a front engine crossmember. Now I've got a spare 392 to rebuild, complete with the precious rear dump exhaust manifolds. Happy Winter Soltice, and merry Christmas y'all!
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Jeff Jamison

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I removed the U on my truck for about months(sort of got busy,it was suppose to go back in sooner)in that time the frame twisted enough it would fit without portapower to move top edge of frame back out.I realy recommend using it.
 

CazNeck79

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Somehow I knew you would say that. It already has this front engine support. Not sure if both crossmembers will fit. You think it needs both?
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Jeff Jamison

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What style motor mounts will you be using?If you are using the side mounts,I would take that other crossmember out ,as to me it doesn't look very well designed as its got 2 pieces of steel just bolted in place,If you are using the front mount,you don't need to put in the side mount frame inserts at all.And if using auto tranny(to lazy to look back) don't forget the crossmember at the front of tranny.
 

J.J.

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I don't think that both will fit. If it were mine, I would go with the 4x4 side mounts. Or go with Scout II front mounts like I did on my '74 100 and modify the "U" so that it would still be able to be used.

JJ in TN
 

CazNeck79

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The U fits no problem! Definitely needed the side mounts as the motor was really wobbly with only the front mount. Hereford has the 727 and there is no crosmember under the bellhousing, only at the rear of the tranny. Does this mean someone took it off? It looks like the headers might be in the way if I try use the one off of the t-all.
 

Jeff Jamison

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No the 2 wheel drives didn't have the crossmember by the bell housing,only the 4x4s did.I don't know if they work with headers or not,I remember it being a pain to get into my travelette when I converted to a 4x4.
 

CazNeck79

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Thanks, Jeff. Got the Dana 60 cleaned up and painted. Had new inner axle seals, pinion seal, and wheel bearings replaced, the rotors turned, and stuck on remanned calipers new pads. Now I can really mock up the suspension after the Holidays. Merry Christmas everyone, cheers!
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Darrel

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Looks nice, Caz. Are you sticking with the upside down u-bolts and push-pull steering?

Merry Christmas!
 
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