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Project Fully Involved - 1969 IH 1300D Foundry Pump Truck

Dana Strong

Lives in an IH Dealership
Lesson learned, nothing is easy. The attachment was totally different that I thought. Of course stripped the threads now. On the hunt for a used replacement.
View attachment 166246
Find a nut with the same threads as the screws, bore/drill the hole in the knob slightly larger and turn the nut down to be close to an interference fit in the hole, then use high-strength (e;g; Stud Lock) grade Loctite to hold it in place. Less time and work than finding new ones, and will look the same if carefully done.
 

Dana Strong

Lives in an IH Dealership
Got some info off the carb for a rebuild. A little hesitant on ordering the kit as I am looking for a USA build IHC (gasket w/heat shield) kit. A lot look very generic. Any recommendations? Also what version 2300 is this? Assuming a plain 2300 due to the manual choke per my Service Manual.
View attachment 166212
The top figure (284545-C92) is the IH part number and the List 2977-2 is the Holley part number. Different List Number units were built for different applications. A Holley book lists all the internal parts for each List No. and I have one, in case you need Holley numbers.
 

mjmck

Farmall Cub
This is the picture of the windshield wiper and choke actuators:
20191024_162240.jpg


I didn't realize that the wiper actuator has a flat spot on the rod. My new plan will be to use the regular blunt tip set screw and knob there (180 degrees off of course) and replace the choke one with the one removed from the wiper actuator with the pin set screw. You will be able to see the set screw from the top now but until I find a suitable replacement or do as Dana suggested this will get me by. I assume the wiper actuate by turning this instead of pulling? The actuator feels seized so I am trying not to break it.
 

mjmck

Farmall Cub
Knob problem temporarily solved. Swapped knobs.
20191025_111731.jpg

Truck is also 20 feet short of the heated winter storage area. Need to get one more thing in there prior and then I can start working on it!
20191025_144520.jpg
 

mjmck

Farmall Cub
I was hung up at the above progress for the weekend as I could only get the passenger drum off. I finally devised a plan and tools allowing me to easily access the tang for the shoe adjuster. Got that puppy loosened up and off first thing this morning:
20191104_060924.jpg

20191104_060909.jpg

Looks like the wheel cylinder is blown out on this one:
20191104_061134.jpg

OEM IHC stamped drums:
20191104_061215.jpg

Broken spring from the passenger side:
20191104_061204.jpg

Looks like 12'' by 3'' shoes:
20191104_062451.jpg
 

stroker3

Lives in an IH Dealership
I finally devised a plan and tools allowing me to easily access the tang for the shoe adjuster. Got that puppy loosened up and off first thing this morning:
Funny how walking away thinking about it then going back to it fresh seems to help sometimes.


Aside from the gunk and some tired parts, the brakes and drums look real good as far as wear goes.
 

mjmck

Farmall Cub
Funny how walking away thinking about it then going back to it fresh seems to help sometimes.


Aside from the gunk and some tired parts, the brakes and drums look real good as far as wear goes.
I agree. Should I reuse the shoes? Can I just clean them with brake kleen? I will definitely get new wheel cylinders and spring kits though. I haven't price shopped them, if they are cheap I will just buy new.
 

patrick r

Binder Driver
Nice! Some will never use pads that have been soaked with fluid, some will clean and reuse. I’d replace them while you are doing it. The last WC I bought for a 65 1200 were not cheap but I went with the best I could get (Wagner MIUSA). Considering your mileage, rebuild if they are not pitted. Do replace those soft lines while its apart. Rubber deteriorates with age.
Are you going to keep going and rework the axle as a whole?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

mjmck

Farmall Cub
Nice! Some will never use pads that have been soaked with fluid, some will clean and reuse. I’d replace them while you are doing it. The last WC I bought for a 65 1200 were not cheap but I went with the best I could get (Wagner MIUSA). Considering your mileage, rebuild if they are not pitted. Do replace those soft lines while its apart. Rubber deteriorates with age.
Are you going to keep going and rework the axle as a whole?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I assumed I would need to replace them anyways so all good. I have never rebuilt a wheel cylinder before, any special tools needed? I will be replacing the soft lines as there is actually a tear in the outer sheath of the one pictures (its on the back side).

I am going to continue work on the axle as I believe the closed knuckles are leaking oils. I have never worked on a closed knuckle axle before. Ultimate plans are a seal refresh, U-joint replacement and fluid changes. Anything else that looks of suspicion will be addressed. I will be completing the front axle first and then going to the rear.

I unfortunately may be removing the trans this winter also because there is a very loud whirring and gear sound when the clutch is let out. I think the there is a bearing failing as well as the clutch only operates the bottom 1/4 of the pedal. I was hoping I could get through 1 season with that, but the more I think about it I don't want any issues in midst' summer.
 

stroker3

Lives in an IH Dealership
X2 on replacing shoes. They look newer than the rest in there but being soaked in whatever it makes sense. They can be cleaned but....same as Patrick said.
Before tearing into the transmission, make sure the fluid level is OK and the noise isn't simply a bad throwout bearing or something else associated with the clutch/pressure plate..
 

mjmck

Farmall Cub
X2 on replacing shoes. They look newer than the rest in there but being soaked in whatever it makes sense. They can be cleaned but....same as Patrick said.
Before tearing into the transmission, make sure the fluid level is OK and the noise isn't simply a bad throwout bearing or something else associated with the clutch/pressure plate..
Agreed. I am almost certain it is associated with the throw out/clutch setup as when the clutch pedal is engaged the noise stops.
 

patrick r

Binder Driver
You would need a brake hone. Not expensive. It can be done with the cylinder in place. Use only brake fluid to lubricate.
I have no experience with that axle but have worked on a closed knuckle d44. Not hard, but messy. Have a lot of rags available. Use John Deer corn head grease to refill the knuckle. It wont leak out and is a better modern alternative.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

mjmck

Farmall Cub
You would need a brake hone. Not expensive. It can be done with the cylinder in place. Use only brake fluid to lubricate.
I have no experience with that axle but have worked on a closed knuckle d44. Not hard, but messy. Have a lot of rags available. Use John Deer corn head grease to refill the knuckle. It wont leak out and is a better modern alternative.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Thank you for the tips, greatly appreciated as I haven't messed with anything like this before. I'm sure I will have a bunch more questions as I get there!
 

mjmck

Farmall Cub
Yesterdays lunch progress, got the drive flanges off. There was some gear oil that came out as well, I assume that wasn't supposed to be in there?:
20191105_053804.jpg

Flanges, nuts and taper wedges:
20191105_054021.jpg

Started cleaning the drums for reuse, need a little more scrubbing then a quick rattle can:
20191105_053844.jpg
 

mjmck

Farmall Cub
Finished cleaning up the drums first thing this morning. I had to go out and get a small wire wheel for the drill in order to sink it into the crevice. Will do some rattle can paint over lunch break today:
20191106_055946.jpg
 
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