Project freebie!

Well finally got some color on this beast! I am very happy with the color I chose and can't wait to start getting it back together. Still have to paint the top, lift gate, windshield frame, and grill but it's a start.

 

Next order of business is to finish up fuel tank. Found a couple small pin holes I need to weld up. After it pressure tests good I will paint and install for good. Then I will put body back on and send it to the Line-X guy to do the inside. I would do it in raptor liner but I want a nice thick build and it would cost the same to buy enough raptor liner as to have someone do it.

 

Looking very nice!!!!


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Well once again long time between updates. Got the fuel tank painted and mounted. I used push lock hose for my supply and return lines. I'm happy with the results and hope it was worth the time I put into it. If it's a total failure for some reason I will probably just put the stock tank back in.

 

I also raptor lined the front inner fenders and started putting this beast back together. I have purchased all the DOM tube and tie rod and drag link ends so I will be doing those soon. I'm in a spot right now where I need to buy a bunch of stuff for it. Wiring, brake lines etc etc etc..... So that's the next step.

 

I would say the color worked!

 

Do you have any info on your fuel pick up? And the work is looking great, btw...

 

Yeah I am pleased with the color choice. http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...t_id=276/category_id=167/mode=prod/prd276.htm
This is the sending unit I bought for the tank in 73-10 ohms
http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...t_id=362/category_id=167/mode=prod/prd362.htm
This is the pick up/ return set up that I am using.

 

I do have doors on it now steering column is in and put 2 borgeson steering joints and a borgeson splined shaft between them. BTW if you order a pitman arm from IHpartsamerica they have an option to have it reamed for the 1 ton drag link ends before they ship it HAVE THEM DO IT. I thought I would do it myself but that thing is hard as a rock I ended up taking it to a shop to have it done.

 

Thanks!

 

Looking awesome! Great work!

 

Well i got a few more things done on Freebie. The project has taken some unexpected turns since last update though. I have taken quite a few steps backward in order to move forward. I don't have a picture but took the steering column, gas pedal, brake pedal bracket, and e-brake pedal back out so i could install the new firewall insulation pad i decided to buy from IH Parts. Took some time but not a big deal. The major step was deciding to go with Chevy outer knuckles, spindles, brakes, and internal hubs for strength on the front axle. I found a cheap Chevy front Dana 44 on Craigs List and bought it. I was originally gonna just rob the outers off of it but then realized i would have rendered that axle pretty much useless. So i decided to shorten that axle and bolt it in and then try to sell my SOA converted Scout front 44. Same process I had to grind off the outer C's so i could shorten to Scout width and turn knuckles for caster. Here are some pics of that process.

In order to get the Chevy axle centered under the scout you have to leave the driver side center pin alone and move the passenger side in 1/2". i welded up the old hole and drilled a new one.

Also instead of cutting off the driver side perch I elected to keep it and use 6* shims from IH Parts. The weird part is the Chevy spring perch is too wide for the Scout springs so I cut the 4 corners off the perch and inverted them and welded them back in so the perch kept its strength and the U-bolts would be tight against the springs.



I then re installed the axle and used a big stick of allthread with some nuts and an 1 1/2 spacer welded to the bottom so i could locate my shock mounts.


I took the axle to work and painted it after all the welding was done. I purchased Ford hubs and rotors to convert it to 5 lug when i reassemble. I also bought a brake caliper rebuild kit and rebuilt those not too bad to do.

I found some chunks of metal inside the differential housing on the Chevy 44 and found that the gears were shot cause the spider gears were missing teeth. Bummer! Today i am taking both the front and rear axles to Colorado Axle and Gear to have 3.73 gears and Detroit Truetracs installed front and rear. This was a task i read a lot about and decided to just let a professional do it.

 

Before i removed the axles for a re gear and Truetracs i installed the outer knuckles and steering arms so that i could build my Tie rod and Drag link. I bought a TRE kit from Parts Mike that had all 4 ends with the passenger side already reamed to accept the drag link. I also bought 2 RH and 2 LH thread weld in TRE sleeves from Parts Mike. I sourced my DOM tubing from a local metal scrap yard.

 

A few more small items that i took care of. When i went to re install the steering column the rubber boot that goes with the metal bracket at the firewall was completely rotted out. i couldnt find a replacement online so i made one from a sheet of rubber i bought at Ace Hardware. it worked perfect. I used the same rubber to make a piece to go between my IH Parts Hydroboost spacer and the firewall. I also saw a guy online that built a socket out of a piece of pipe to get the nut off the back of his hydroboost bracket. I copied the idea and it worked perfect cost me $3 in scrap metal!





I also purchased a Kwikwire 14 circuit harness from IH Parts. I didn't want to screw it to the firewall so i made a bracket that tucks it up under the dash. I temporarily put the dash in to make sure it didn't interfere with anything. I worked out great. It bolts to the lower LT side dash bracket.



That's all for now but I will keep on keepin on.

 

I sprayed the inside of my travel top with Lizard Skin Sound Control yesterday. All I can say is holy crap this stuff works! I noticed how tinny the roof was when you tap on it. Sprayed 2 coats of Lizard Skin and when I came in the next day it was fully dry and all I can hear is a muted thud sound when I knock on the metal. I highly recommend this stuff.

 

Great craftsmanship as usual. I waited forever for a good Ebay deal on one of those hydroboost sockets.

If your draglink wants to roll over try one of these. http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/R1768.html

 

Thanks for the link. That's interesting. Is that a common problem with this hi steer setup? Did you have that issue on your rig? Also what part of town are you in? I'm up in Broomfield.

 

It's only usually an issue with really large tires. I went with a double arm that puts my tie rod behind the axle. http://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/Dana-60-HDA-Double-Arm-Set/3445

I'm on the East side almost on the prairie.

 

Was the Lizard Skin the sound deadening or heat insulation, or both?

 

I am on the prairie haha