BinderPlanet.com

Welcome to BinderPlanet.com the World's Premier IH Website.

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Project Baby Blue

rustfreeTX

Binder Driver
Just a few simple cosmetic items, got some Mexican tail lights and all new side markers with gaskets. Also replaced the decals on the the shifter and transfer case knobs.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3634.JPG
    IMG_3634.JPG
    69.6 KB · Views: 192
  • IMG_3635.JPG
    IMG_3635.JPG
    82.5 KB · Views: 192
  • IMG_3632.JPG
    IMG_3632.JPG
    108.6 KB · Views: 193

rustfreeTX

Binder Driver
An update!! Installed new starter and fuel pump. Replaced my way too short shoulder belts and installed a diff cover I won at the binder bash raffle. Oh and a metal fuel filler neck!
F9FFF804-8B50-47E1-8AA5-9EDDE435AC19_zpsy31nedzn.jpg

A2D898CC-66C5-49E6-9CBC-B053904E3706_zps5i8omall.jpg

439C4788-6F2D-47C6-BE46-5252EAA0D54E_zpstlzkfzwc.jpg

3C2B8DEE-133C-4F0A-99A1-212D12968087_zpsgbye6yam.jpg

5B3F86B2-D1B1-4C8E-AC6B-8B3EBB3A67E7_zpsi4snbqrg.jpg
 

rustfreeTX

Binder Driver
Starting my spare 304 rebuild. Question, does that hole in the valley look normal? I'd looked at a few other pics and I see a similar hole, but mine has jagged edges.
4AD521FF-798C-411F-A4B8-E72ADB06EAE4_zpsxm0dquls.jpg

A85B655D-D9B2-4FAC-BB77-BA4535D6B62B_zpsxdy1o0s9.jpg

32EA1C81-2CC9-4890-B91E-59575A18B40A_zpsw0prouof.jpg

94C7530F-E8ED-4821-BA81-0541C9B2AE31_zps1rqvclvv.jpg
 

rustfreeTX

Binder Driver
So, what's the best way to remove the front/rear seal and crankshaft? Need to remove the crank pulley too, do I need a puller for that? Before I get reemed out, I do have a manual, just need to break it out now. Also looking at rebuild kits, not sure I need new pistons, they boost the price up a bunch. I guess I could get my pistons and cam measured to see if they're in spec. Planning on ordering the valve seals bellow so I can provide them to the machine shop. Right now I'm leaning towards the kit that just has seals and gaskets.

https://www.ihpartsamerica.com/stor...=PROD&Store_Code=ION&Product_Code=COMP-504-16

https://www.ihpartsamerica.com/store/IHENG-GASK-OH.html

https://www.ihpartsamerica.com/store/IHENG-OH-KIT-V8.html
 

rustfreeTX

Binder Driver
OK, here we go. My goal this weekend was to finish tearing down the block completely and getting everything loaded into the Scout to take to the machine shop next weekend. I didn't knock out the camshaft bearings and I'm wondering if I should remove the plugs with the square fittings? Maybe I'll have the shop do that. I did remove all the freeze plugs on the block and heads. Also there looks like some guide/insert for the distributor, wonder if I should try to remove that before it gets hot tanked.
429B2FB8-65F0-4756-A5A1-2D902D71EC56_zpsy8iwfozv.jpg

7E49DA26-FFF4-45C9-9763-69D2F71CDBA0_zpsovhed4ex.jpg
 

rustfreeTX

Binder Driver
The block and all parts are at the machine shop, they have a media blaster, so hopefully they can clean up the rusty stuff. Right off the bat they recommended getting a new cam since a couple lobes were rounded. Been looking at Isky, but pretty pricey, are comp cams good?
 

72soa

High Wheeler
Back to the roll bar seat belts. I want to get a roll bar for my sons scout with a stock bench seat and hook up three point belts like you have. Where did your source the belts and how do they work with the bench seat? Thanks for the input.
 

rustfreeTX

Binder Driver
Back to the roll bar seat belts. I want to get a roll bar for my sons scout with a stock bench seat and hook up three point belts like you have. Where did your source the belts and how do they work with the bench seat? Thanks for the input.
I got them on E-bay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/RetroBelt-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648

I had to modify the buckle part, they were too long so when it clipped in it was almost in the center of my waist which throws off the shoulder belt. I cut them down and had a friend re-stitch them. To be honest the buckle part falls down behind the bench seat, which is kind of annoying. I plan to go with bucket seats eventually. The same company has kits for bench seats, but measure carefully, you want to make sure the buckle part will reach. They also had a similar kit with aviation style buckles that have adjustable straps. The kits are a bit pricey, but the hummer style belts I had were way too short overall, I could barely buckle in. They had to go. I think the hummer ones were meant to be mounted on the side of the body somewhere, not down on the step where I wanted them. I'm sure others will tell you, but what I have is a show bar, it's mainly for looks and probably wouldn't do much in an actual roll-over. I did reinforce the mounting points on mine by using some thick metal backing plates, one of the bolts that secures the seat belt re-tractor goes right through the show bar and the step to a backing plate on the outside. Can't say if adding those plates does anything to the overall structural integrity, it's just something I chose to do.
 

'Mater

Binder Driver
Most people will recommend the stock profile on the cam unless it's a racing Scout or some wild engine build. My 304 had a sad cam a while back and I got the stock grind cam and Johnson lifters from IHPA. I believe that the brand of the cam was sealed power. My engine ran like a racing engine compared to the old ground-down camshaft. I just got a hot 392 to swap into my pickup and I couldn't resist stepping up one notch and got an RV grind Isky cam. Have not fired it up yet, so I'll see if I ruined my driveability and fuel economy.
 

rustfreeTX

Binder Driver
Probably getting my block back from the machine shop this weekend. The tech said he measured the bores and they're in spec, but one had some surface rust. He said that one cylinder had some minor pitting after he honed it, recommended using cast iron piston rings over chrome for that reason. Does that make sense to Y'all? Also was wondering if I should re-use my timing gears or buy new.

Thanks
 

rustfreeTX

Binder Driver
Finally got my block back from the machine shop, been a long time coming. It's been vatted a few times, honed, dura bond cam bearings installed, pistons cleaned and crank measured in spec. My heads are still there, but at least I can start the lower end build. I'm still going to pressure wash some of the water passages, there was a lot of rust and gunk in there. The cam bearings look pretty well lined up, will probably modify the rear one with a dremel to give more clearance on the side oil channels. Looks like I'll be getting a stock grind cam, crank bearings and some rings soon.

E207819D-09C2-45CA-8F41-F772048EF992_zpszfqhurmc.jpg


14504554-831D-4EF2-A62E-77E87816AC0C_zps7sfih1hu.jpg


3577FF8D-8ABB-4E83-9206-4E2AA822DB22_zpskuhniczb.jpg
 

rustfreeTX

Binder Driver
So, quick question about cam bearings and also looking for part recommendations to start the lower end rebuild. I was double checking the cam bearings with a mirror and flash light to make sure all the oiling holes lined up. Everything looked good, I noticed the rear bearing only has one hole, but the side channels provide oil too, but I didn't expect one of the middle bearings to only have one hole, is this correct? If needed I can re-count and get the exact bearing number in sequence. Looking for recs for these parts:

Stock grind cam
Chrome piston rings
Piston bearings
Crank bearings
Crank bolts
Rear and front main seal

Thanks
 

rustfreeTX

Binder Driver
Also, was just test fitting my new freeze plugs when I noticed that every hole has a ridge or a lip on it except the front passenger-side hole. Anyone else notice this? Seems like it will be harder to seat without that ridge.
 
Last edited:

rustfreeTX

Binder Driver
Ok, time for some minor progress. Crank is back in the engine! Waiting to put the rear cap on so I can do the seal right.

7BFBA9EE-B307-489E-8D45-49D2E6A91FAD_zps8dg3birk.jpg
 
Top