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"On the Road Again" - First Time in 12 yrs

2021 Arizona International Harvester Rendezvous

mbf80

Farmall Cub
Joined
Feb 24, 2004
Messages
363
Points
0
Location
Tyler, TX
Last Saturday the Scout 80 moved under its own power for the first time in 12 years. I had to have a little help from a mechanic friend of mine, but after he adjusted the timing the S80 took off. I took her to a car wash (with my brother following close behind so that no one would rear-end me) and attempted to de-grease the transfer case.

100_0595.JPG


After driving her around for about 20 minutes, I finally put her back up on jacks and started the next exciting phase - the wiring. I have an initial sketch of the dash I want to make and I have started looking for aircraft toggles and led indicator lights. (I plan on replacing all of the original switches with toggles ).

I have also been searching various sites for good advice when doing a rewire. I bought 8 or 9 100' ft spools of different colors of 14ga wire. I will try to make my own harness. Based on stuff I have found from searching, I plan on replacing each circuit, one at a time, and testing that circuit before I go on to the next. I will probably get an old fuse box from a salvage yard and most of my switches connectors and led's from www.delcity.com .

If you have done a rewire lately, and you have some good advice, or if there is something that you would do differently if you had to do it over again, do me a favor and let me know. Also, feel free to link me to your favorite posts on re-wiring if they helped you (I may have missed it). If you have another good source for leds and switches, I would also like that advice (btw- based on my searches, I know that many of you like mad electrical. I am going to use them as well).

Wish me luck. I hope I dont screw this up.
Matt F.

p.s. - I was very pleased with the scout's stopping power after I completely replaced the brakes from the new mc all the way through the new wheel cylinders. The steel brake lines I got from Back Country Binders worked perfectly.
 

GregF

moderator
Staff member
Moderator
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Oct 18, 2001
Messages
1,006
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Milwaukie, Or.
looking good Matt!! :D . It sure feels good when it actually gets on the road again, even though incomplete. Your wiring plan is conservative and safe but you shouldn't be tearing your hair out trying to solve a rats nest. Keep up the good work

Greg
 

M. Mayben

High Wheeler
Joined
Sep 18, 2002
Messages
2,940
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Location
Leaburg, OR
Matt...

Here's a link to the thread I've got up on a similar topic on our club forum:

http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35025

I updated the Excel file after I completed the wiring job today. The spread sheet ain't real purty as it's still gonna be massaged somemore along with a parts list and some additional information/tips/etc.

I plan to update that thread tomorrow now that I've got my network here back up so i can post some additional pics.

By the way, I'm a 5th generation Texian, my kids live in Avery, not far from you. My son is at the top of the list for a kidney transplant at East Texas Medical Center there in Tyler, so I'll be headed that way "quickly" once his number comes up. I'll look ya up while I'm in the area.
 

mbf80

Farmall Cub
Joined
Feb 24, 2004
Messages
363
Points
0
Location
Tyler, TX
M. Mayben said:
Matt...

Here's a link to the thread I've got up on a similar topic on our club forum:

http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35025

I updated the Excel file after I completed the wiring job today. The spread sheet ain't real purty as it's still gonna be massaged somemore along with a parts list and some additional information/tips/etc.

I plan to update that thread tomorrow now that I've got my network here back up so i can post some additional pics.

By the way, I'm a 5th generation Texian, my kids live in Avery, not far from you. My son is at the top of the list for a kidney transplant at East Texas Medical Center there in Tyler, so I'll be headed that way "quickly" once his number comes up. I'll look ya up while I'm in the area.

I cant believe you have family in Avery, I grew up in DeKalb, wich is about 5 minutes from there.

The doctors here in Tyler are great, rest assured you son is in good hands. Let me know when you are coming into town.

Matt F.
 

mbf80

Farmall Cub
Joined
Feb 24, 2004
Messages
363
Points
0
Location
Tyler, TX
GOOD LORD... I just read the post that you refrenced above. I had no idea that you were a bona fide automotive electrician. I cant wait until you post your spreadsheet. I will probably copy it exactly (although I dont even know what a "buss" is).

This would make an excellent article for the newsletter.

I am on pins and needles.

Matt F.
 
Last edited:

M. Mayben

High Wheeler
Joined
Sep 18, 2002
Messages
2,940
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Location
Leaburg, OR
Matt...

I sent you a BC email requesting YOUR email addy so we could continue our visit regarding "hometown stuff" off the forum!

I am developing this Scout 80/800 electrical "stuff" for our club members to use and for anyone else who wants to participate in "beta testing" what I'm developing. I'd certainly email ANYONE here on the BB the spreadsheet we're discussing even though it's nowhere near PRETTY enough for general distribution. ALL anyone needs to do is email me a request and I'll shoot it back at ya as an attachment.

Buss is the tradename of an electrical apparatus supplier (as in "Buss Fuses") both to the "automotive" industry and the residential/commercial electrical supply side.

Buss is also a "technical" name for a type of terminal strip or a "ganged" common electrical connection point. An example would be in your "load center" or electrical service panel in your home...if ya take the cover off (very carefully!), you'll see a "ground buss" where all the "ground conductors" for each cable run terminate, and a "neutral buss" where all the "neutral conductors" terminate. That's assuming the panel is in a house in the neighborhood where your great photo was taken. Those homes are new enough to have had a properly-installed "grounded" electrical system.

Lemme know if ya want "the stuff"!

The thread on the IHSTO forum regarding this subject, will be updated tonite along with some additional jpegs of the completed dash.
 

mbf80

Farmall Cub
Joined
Feb 24, 2004
Messages
363
Points
0
Location
Tyler, TX
Quick Update:

I got the dash off to find the usual selection of rust, dust and wasp nests.

100_0605.JPG


So that I dont chicken out and do my rewire with parts of my old harness, I went ahead and cut the old one out and cleaned up the area. I am going to copy Michael Mayben's wiring diagram as soon as he is finished with it. I would paint this portion of the Scout now, but I didn’t have any paint handy.

100_0609.JPG


I then installed the mock dash that I made with poster board to get an idea how it will look and where I should put my toggle switches.

100_0607.JPG


Under each of the 2 1/16" gauges I will have a toggle switch with a red safety cover (mostly just because I like the way they look). About an inch below that switch, I am placing a led indicator light that shows when the circuit is active. Now I need to choose between brushed aluminum and diamond plate. I like the dashes that use the diamond plate, but it seems like the gauges wouldn’t sit flush. Is this a problem, and if so, how did you deal with it?

That reminds me, for those of you that designed a custom dash, how did you keep your glove box? Did you build another box? Also, did you put a lip along the bottom of the dash for the brake and clutch springs? I thought I could cut the center of the old dash out and put the new one over it with a hole cut to coincide with the original glove box. That seems like a bad idea.

What do you think?

Matt F.
 

M. Mayben

High Wheeler
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Sep 18, 2002
Messages
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Location
Leaburg, OR
Good that you put the jpegs up Matt, makes for easy "reference points"!

I didn't use diamond plate (though I have alot of it) for the same reason you mentioned, "fitment" of the gauges/switches/indicator lights. Also, it's hard to keep clean/nice and is VERY reflective in it's "natural" state.

Just set the OEM harness aside after you carefully split the tape sheath open and discard. There will be some portions to be re-used after some cleanup (OEM instrument illumination pigtails, turn signal switch harness connectors, etc.).

Now you can see why this OEM IH-engineered wiring scenario is such a "wrong" way of doing this!
 

George Womack

Y-Block King
Joined
Oct 13, 2001
Messages
3,241
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83
Location
Terlingua, TX
Congrats, Matt, on reviving another old Scout!

Here are my "must-have" wiring upgrades:

*Internally-regulated alternator.
*Ditch the ammeter, install a voltmeter instead.
*Remote starter solenoid.

Del City is a great source for electrical parts. You might also wat to check out Wrangler Northwest Power Products. They have lots of good stuff, in spite of their name! ;)
 

M. Mayben

High Wheeler
Joined
Sep 18, 2002
Messages
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Location
Leaburg, OR
Thanks for jumping in George!

I told Matt BC that he might "expect" some feedback from you!

Have y'all seen "this" instrument as a workaround for both a voltmeter and an ammeter?

http://www.wss-ltd.com/marineproducts/207.htm

The "inductive pickup" is a really cool way of accomodating an ammeter installation which will "look" at the entire system load.
 

mbf80

Farmall Cub
Joined
Feb 24, 2004
Messages
363
Points
0
Location
Tyler, TX
George Womack said:
Congrats, Matt, on reviving another old Scout!

Here are my "must-have" wiring upgrades:

*Internally-regulated alternator.
*Ditch the ammeter, install a voltmeter instead.
*Remote starter solenoid.

Del City is a great source for electrical parts. You might also wat to check out Wrangler Northwest Power Products. They have lots of good stuff, in spite of their name! ;)

Thanks for the reply George. I bought a voltmeter and I am going to get an Internally-regulated alternator and remote starter solenoid tomorrow. I did the remote starter solenoid on my SII and it cured my "hot start" problem, so I am sold on the idea of doing it to my S80.

Thanks again,
Matt F.
 
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