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"New" engine questions

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codeman

Farmall Cub
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Dec 23, 2010
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hebron, MD
While I'm still a good ways out from installing my drive train, I'd like some opinions/information about my "new" engine. I'm doing a frame off on a 78 Scout II, going from auto to 4-spd., SOA, R/S, 2.5" body lift, and on and on.........

I purchased a 1975 392 that is completely rebuilt. It was built by a now retired IH diesel engine mechanic to use in a T-all for pulling events. He completed it in 2000, filled it with oil and primed the system. For some reason, he never installed it and it has never been started. I have spoken with a good friend who runs the machine shop at the IH dealership. He has assured me the parts and workmanship are top-notch!!!

I want to "tweak" a few things before installation: port match exhaust, grind down air tube "bumps", BBC valve springs, verify cam & timing, change oil pick up tube & filter mount, etc. Since the engine has been sitting so long, with oil in it, I'm sure the oil has gotten funky. I don't want to move it back throught the engine. So, I'll drain it. To lube the bottom end of the bores, should I add a couple fresh qts. and rotate the assembled engine on the stand before taking the heads & base pan off? Or, should I add more oil and prime the entire system again? I'm concerned about the bores being dry and moving the pistons. I know I can oil the top end when remove the heads.

Anything else I should do or look for while its on the stand?
 

blue smoke

High Wheeler
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If you add oil and just rotate it by hand you will be doing cam bearings in the not too distant future. Actually you probably won't but If would prime the engine by using the descriptions found in the knowledge library you will oil those little buggers up and not have to worry about damaging them.


I would not try tearing into this engine without priming the oil system and making sure the oil reaches the all the inner bearings and valves. It means that your going to have to rotate the engine. The bores you can add some oil to each cylinder to help.
 

TheScoutMaster

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Speaking of which, I wonder if it would be better to prime the system off the cam pump drive, and have a friend slowly turn the crank to eliminate dry spots? Any thoughts on this? Sort of same situation on installing a new engine that is being shipped to me...
 

codeman

Farmall Cub
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hebron, MD
I am going to partially disassemble the engine. My concern is possibly having to rotate the crank/cam/pistons in the process. I do NOT want to trash anything. That's the root of the question.
I'm also concerned about the condition of the oil presently in the engine. I don't want to pump junk into the system of a "new" engine. Plus, it's been sitting in a cradle all these years, so it has to be dry!
 

Bill Bennett

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As you will be removing the heads, how about removing the rocker assembly, push rods and lifters before rotating the engine. This will eliminate any pressure from the lifters against the cam lobes and there will be minimal stress on the cam bearings.
 

codeman

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I'm with you on that Bill!!! What about the bores below the rings? I'm sure they'll be dry. That's why I wanted to roll the engine over a few times on the stand, to get oil in them. I guess I should just do whatever it takes to get down to basically a short block without moving anything. Then there's still the dry main and rod bearings. Those are also a concern. That is why I thought I should add fresh oil and prime the system.
 

Scout Terra

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Why not just follow the process in the knowledge base for an engine that has sat for years and save you a lot of trouble and time? You hear of many guys starting up these engines following the procedure after 10 years or so of sitting with out issues.
 

codeman

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hebron, MD
That brings up an interesting point, Paul. I'm aware of the oil pan & pick up tube issue. The 392 has what I'm assuming to be a pan for a T-All installed. The front of the pan has somewhat of a sump, not as deep as a "Scout" style. Since I'm doing the spring over conversion, do I need to change the oil pan to a "Scout" style, double sump? As I see it, and again, the engine is not in the frame yet, the SOA may provide plenty clearance for the T-All pan. Opinions????
 

Doc Stewart

Content Team
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The Scout II double sump oil pan was necessary to clear the front axle with the factory suspension. If you are lifting significantly and not building a super articulated suspension, it probably is not necessary. The pan from the 392 you refer is not a double sump but has a dent in the side to clear the front diff on a pickup or Travelall. In the same circumstance, it isn't necessary either.
 

codeman

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Thanks!!! Doc. I have the parts necessary to switch out the pans, but if it's not necessary I'm cool with that. With the currently installed pan, I won't have the "dirty oil left behind" scenario with the double sump. I believe the amount of lift I'm installing will allow plenty of clearence. Any thoughts on the OP concerning the "dry" engine????
 

codeman

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Thanks for the input Guys!!! I'll be starting a build thread here in the spring as "78 Maryland Binder". I've already got it going at IHPA. I haven't done much on the Scout since last spring. I had surgery on my foot in October and I'm still in a cast until January. Hopefully, once recovered, I'll be spending ALOT of time in the shop!!! The info and cooperation on this site is FANTASTIC!!! THANKS to ALL!!!!
 

codeman

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Dec 23, 2010
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SORRY, Guys!!! One more thing I forgot to ask??? Since the engine hasn't been started and gotten "hot" and I am removing the heads, should I install new head gaskets? Or, will the present ones be OK?
 
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