Quite the compliment C2. Whether home projects or field work (during my working days), I often had to figure out a way to cross the finish line without breaking the bank or purchasing tools used only for a couple of occasions. This is yet another reason why I like this Scout building stuff so much; it's generally easy physically but it requires a bit of mental prowess to succeed. Unless of course one has lots of experience, money, or a shop as big as one's house, of which I have neither!
So I've been laying low (or on my back) the past few weeks recovering from some medical procedures and pretty much being bored out of my mind. Hopefully by the end of the year I'll be able to become somewhat more functional. In the meantime....
I finished the heat embossed seat inserts/panels for Barb and the Lil Sh!t. Here's either the DS or PS backs and bottoms:
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And the rear seat:
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And for reference, a pic of one of my original back seats (that does indeed have welting incorporated into the covers Greg). Interesting that the fronts do not.
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I'm sure glad I had a couple of CSs with original seats so I could duplicate the pattern.
As the finished inserts/panels have a tendency to curl at the edges, I had to McGyver

a temporary storage using what few available weights I had on hand.
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Don't be concerned, the boxes were never filled with any product, rather they were left over from a movie shoot!
In the unlikely event anyone has an interest, I'll summarize how I embossed the panels.
Step 1: Sample product from one or more of the above boxes.
Step 2: Cut your vinyl into appropriate sized panels, glue some 1/4" sew foam onto the back, and mark the area one wishes to emboss (last step only required for those that are mentally challenged).
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Step 3: Design and make an embossing mold to fit whatever pattern you wish to duplicate. For RCS and CS Scouts, 1-1/2" angle iron welded together works.
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Step 4: Preheat oven, grill, nuclear reactor, etc. and apply a trace amount of peanut oil or other high temp substance to the mold edges to prevent the hot mold from sticking to the vinyl. Place mold into your heat source of choice.
Step 4: Make a working surface for the magic to happen. I used a 5/16" steel plate as the base. Place your vinyl insert onto the working surface.
Step 5: Take your mold out of your heat source and quickly place onto the top of the vinyl surface. (FYI, the angle iron I used turned out to be a wonderful heat sink and would thus rapidly dissipate the heat). Then I used a second 5/16" steel plate, followed by some additional weight. I found it
critical that one use Toyota rotors first, followed by some Volvo rotors next. Not sure how your embossing would turn out if you used Chevy or other rotors!
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Step 6: Continue to sample any liquid product that may still be available.
That's it in a nutshell. There are many variables that need to be considered such as the mold temperature, the amount of weight, and the duration of the pressing. Those variables depends on the vinyl, the area of the mold (or psi), and other factors. It's more art than science. At least it's not political.
Next up is to try and recreate some sun visor blanks so they can get upholstered at the same time as the seats do.
Have a great day, week, month, and what's left of the year!