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Mini-Build 11 ~ Steve L
- Thread starter Damian Grihalva
- Start date
Damian Grihalva
High Wheeler
The list of things is VERY small. I met with Steve two weeks ago and its now in Jim's hands. However, Jim had a trip to Upstate NY and I haven't heard from him getting back. We will update this thread with stuff as its available.
Damian Grihalva
High Wheeler
There are a few little things still to do. Namely, we need to put in the front axle shafts, fill the diffs, and install the rear shocks and front coil-overs. Then its down to the break-in period.
Damian Grihalva
High Wheeler
Steve do we really want to bring this conversation into an open/public forum? It is the same as what we talked about a FEW months ago.
That said, I am going to be working on the rig this weekend. Hope to have it driving. I'll see if I can get pix and video.
That said, I am going to be working on the rig this weekend. Hope to have it driving. I'll see if I can get pix and video.
heman
Farmall Cub
well i have been texting you with no response so it seems this is the place you want to talk. the last time i got a text from you was more then 2 weeks ago, you said you were waiting on the coils that you ordered 2 weeks before that. well are they here? did you start test driving yet? Hell, is it finished? ALL I'M LOOKING FOR IS A LITTLE COMMUNICATION. i don't think once or every other week is to much to ask for, concidering...... call me, text me, email me. hell, just come on over, something! SORRY TO GO PUBLIC AS YOU SAY but what is a guy to do?
Damian Grihalva
High Wheeler
I sent you a text this morning (yes, before I saw this). Sorry, my son was getting his Arrow of Light last night and I didn't have time to reply.
heman
Farmall Cub
yes, i got your text, thank you, you said you were going to upload some updates, still have not seen them. when will the truck be done???
heman
Farmall Cub
any update????? pictures, anything????? Finished?????
Damian Grihalva
High Wheeler
Dylan had to visit family out of state last weekend so not as much was done as I wanted, but still. I finished wiring up and testing the OBA system. pumps up quickly, holds pressure all day even with testing the ARBs. The front/rear ARBs are functional. Welded in the O2 sensor and got the rig running. There are some tune items I need to address with the TBI system and re-time the motor. Also need to re-locate the transmission cooler lines (as the exhaust was routed pretty close to them in a spot, nothing touching but still close). Trans is filled with fluid. Still need to fill transfercase and rear axle with fluid.
Finally met up with one of my buddies last night about 8 to charge the front shocks. All normal places were out of nitrogen. As mentioned, after a fire at my spring supplier which 'downed' the shipping department, I received the remainder of the springs and now that the shocks are charged, can assemble and install the front suspension. Need to put a wrench on all bolts/nuts to make sure everything is tight and ready to go.
Steering: Everything is in place for the steering. Next step is to get fluid and bleed the ram. Once that is done we'll be putting on the powersteering belt and testing it to see if it will turn the tires.
The biggest 'wait' thing is the axle seals for the front axle. Due to the fact that they don't make carrier bearing seals for a D44 w/ 1.5" shafts, I'm having my machinist make some in-tube seals that will hold the fluids in the diff. I've already talked to him about these but need to get him some better-than-average measurements to make the slugs. This is what I was going to have Dylan do last weekend. Will have to wait till this weekend.
That is all I have to report.
Finally met up with one of my buddies last night about 8 to charge the front shocks. All normal places were out of nitrogen. As mentioned, after a fire at my spring supplier which 'downed' the shipping department, I received the remainder of the springs and now that the shocks are charged, can assemble and install the front suspension. Need to put a wrench on all bolts/nuts to make sure everything is tight and ready to go.
Steering: Everything is in place for the steering. Next step is to get fluid and bleed the ram. Once that is done we'll be putting on the powersteering belt and testing it to see if it will turn the tires.
The biggest 'wait' thing is the axle seals for the front axle. Due to the fact that they don't make carrier bearing seals for a D44 w/ 1.5" shafts, I'm having my machinist make some in-tube seals that will hold the fluids in the diff. I've already talked to him about these but need to get him some better-than-average measurements to make the slugs. This is what I was going to have Dylan do last weekend. Will have to wait till this weekend.
That is all I have to report.
Damian Grihalva
High Wheeler
This past weekend was pretty productive. Oddly enough, the jobs we thought were going to be easy, ended up not getting done, but the one thing that I was dreading the most, was taken care of.
First we started removing the shock place holders, but in the move from our last shop, some important parts of the dual-rate kits seem to have done gone missing, so I'm ordering those up today. That was a bummer, as I really wanted to see this thing on its own springs.
Regardless, the big thing that I was dreading was the inner axle seals in the front suspension. You see, when Steve decided to upgrage to 40" tires, we upgraded the axles to match. We got 1.5" 35-spline shafts and Dana60 ends to make sure the axles would have a chance to hold up to all that rubber. We ordered all new gears, lockers and a rebuild kit as well as 4340 shafts and 300M SuperJoints. Everything went together great, but when it came to putting the shafts into the axle, the carrier-bearing seals that came with the kit were for the stock 1.31" shafts not 1.5" ~ so when we went to install them, the new LARGE shafts would not go into the pumpkin. A call to all the major gear vendors, as well as some of the larger after-market guys proved that there was NO seals being made for the application ~ which I thought was odd since they made everything else.
There are axle tube seals that are made for those buggies with rear engines ~ and used in Spider9's or any custom axle, but the tube size they use is much bigger than what Cringer has. So, we consigned ourselves to having to custom make some slugs that would do the same thing ~ namely slip into the end of the tube and 'mostly' seal the tubes from the outside ~ but make them to fit our axles.
That is what Dylan's job was going to be this weekend. However, as we removed the old seals, we decided to try one more avenue that may provide us with a 'carrier-bearing' type seal. That is, take the old seals to a local bearing supplier and see if they can use the dimensions to find a seal that will work with our shafts. Good news, it worked. Finally ending up at Napa, they found a seal that'll work. Its not a 'carrier bearing' seal, but it can work. The problem, it wasn't in stock at that location. After a few hours of driving, we found a couple ~ and boy were they expensive! But MUCH cheaper than custom machining a slug. And not just that, the seals took only a couple hours to get, the slug would have been a couple of weeks before we would have had an actual finished product.
Once back at the 'shop' ~ we modified the old carrier bearing seals to help the new seals, that aren't carrier seals, to act like them. We then made a tool to aid installation and the new seals slid into place. WHAT A RELIEF! That was one part of the finish work that I simply didn't look forward to.
The other stuff we did was minor in comparison, but still we were able to get a few little things wrapped up. Namely, we bought and installed everything needed to fill the new steering system with fluid, as well as a belt for the power steering pump. We had not installed a new PS belt to this point because you don't want to spin the pump without fluids ~ it'll burn out the pump. But with 7 bottles of Royal Purple's Synthetic powersteering fluid on hand ~ dang that stuff adds up ~ we have officially got the steering system filled and mostly bled. We will be removing the ram for some specialized bleeding this weekend (gotta make sure the air bubbles are out), but in all, the fluid is in place.
The only other hiccup we had is while installing the new front shafts, the actual joints are a bit big. Between the stock D60 knuckles, the powdercoating and the enormous shafts/joint, its just a touch too tight. So we'll need to grind away some material off the steering knuckles before we finish assembly of the new shafts and front axle. Once that is done, we'll be picking up some lockouts and the front axle will be complete.
On the same note, I had Dylan slide under the Scout (on a creeper) and look at the Trans-cooler lines. 'See anything wrong' I asked. Straight away he noticed that when the exhaust was installed, one bend is a little close to the lines. So we removed the lines, took them off the inside of the frame and moved them to the top of the frame. Problem solved.
That's about all I have to report. The items left to do is: Install the front/rear shocks. Insure the steering system is bled. Clearance and install the front axle shafts as well as repack the wheel bearings and get and install lockouts. Re-time and tune. Test drive.
I'm hoping to finish this list this weekend, but I'm unsure how quickly the 'tune' portion of the job will take. Pictures: I took a few pictures, but honestly, my focus was getting work done and getting Cringer out, not taking pictures. I do have some, and I'll post those later on.
First we started removing the shock place holders, but in the move from our last shop, some important parts of the dual-rate kits seem to have done gone missing, so I'm ordering those up today. That was a bummer, as I really wanted to see this thing on its own springs.
Regardless, the big thing that I was dreading was the inner axle seals in the front suspension. You see, when Steve decided to upgrage to 40" tires, we upgraded the axles to match. We got 1.5" 35-spline shafts and Dana60 ends to make sure the axles would have a chance to hold up to all that rubber. We ordered all new gears, lockers and a rebuild kit as well as 4340 shafts and 300M SuperJoints. Everything went together great, but when it came to putting the shafts into the axle, the carrier-bearing seals that came with the kit were for the stock 1.31" shafts not 1.5" ~ so when we went to install them, the new LARGE shafts would not go into the pumpkin. A call to all the major gear vendors, as well as some of the larger after-market guys proved that there was NO seals being made for the application ~ which I thought was odd since they made everything else.
There are axle tube seals that are made for those buggies with rear engines ~ and used in Spider9's or any custom axle, but the tube size they use is much bigger than what Cringer has. So, we consigned ourselves to having to custom make some slugs that would do the same thing ~ namely slip into the end of the tube and 'mostly' seal the tubes from the outside ~ but make them to fit our axles.
That is what Dylan's job was going to be this weekend. However, as we removed the old seals, we decided to try one more avenue that may provide us with a 'carrier-bearing' type seal. That is, take the old seals to a local bearing supplier and see if they can use the dimensions to find a seal that will work with our shafts. Good news, it worked. Finally ending up at Napa, they found a seal that'll work. Its not a 'carrier bearing' seal, but it can work. The problem, it wasn't in stock at that location. After a few hours of driving, we found a couple ~ and boy were they expensive! But MUCH cheaper than custom machining a slug. And not just that, the seals took only a couple hours to get, the slug would have been a couple of weeks before we would have had an actual finished product.
Once back at the 'shop' ~ we modified the old carrier bearing seals to help the new seals, that aren't carrier seals, to act like them. We then made a tool to aid installation and the new seals slid into place. WHAT A RELIEF! That was one part of the finish work that I simply didn't look forward to.
The other stuff we did was minor in comparison, but still we were able to get a few little things wrapped up. Namely, we bought and installed everything needed to fill the new steering system with fluid, as well as a belt for the power steering pump. We had not installed a new PS belt to this point because you don't want to spin the pump without fluids ~ it'll burn out the pump. But with 7 bottles of Royal Purple's Synthetic powersteering fluid on hand ~ dang that stuff adds up ~ we have officially got the steering system filled and mostly bled. We will be removing the ram for some specialized bleeding this weekend (gotta make sure the air bubbles are out), but in all, the fluid is in place.
The only other hiccup we had is while installing the new front shafts, the actual joints are a bit big. Between the stock D60 knuckles, the powdercoating and the enormous shafts/joint, its just a touch too tight. So we'll need to grind away some material off the steering knuckles before we finish assembly of the new shafts and front axle. Once that is done, we'll be picking up some lockouts and the front axle will be complete.
On the same note, I had Dylan slide under the Scout (on a creeper) and look at the Trans-cooler lines. 'See anything wrong' I asked. Straight away he noticed that when the exhaust was installed, one bend is a little close to the lines. So we removed the lines, took them off the inside of the frame and moved them to the top of the frame. Problem solved.
That's about all I have to report. The items left to do is: Install the front/rear shocks. Insure the steering system is bled. Clearance and install the front axle shafts as well as repack the wheel bearings and get and install lockouts. Re-time and tune. Test drive.
I'm hoping to finish this list this weekend, but I'm unsure how quickly the 'tune' portion of the job will take. Pictures: I took a few pictures, but honestly, my focus was getting work done and getting Cringer out, not taking pictures. I do have some, and I'll post those later on.
heman
Farmall Cub
nice to see that things are finally getting done. when do you think it will be completed?
heman
Farmall Cub
nice to see thing are finally getting done. when do you think it will be completed?
heman
Farmall Cub
anything happen over the weekend????
Damian Grihalva
High Wheeler
High in the 30s as a freak snow storm rolled through. Sorry, we couldn't get anything done.
heman
Farmall Cub
well its october 23rd one year since it was suppost to be completed and deleivered. has there been any progress to finally finish my truck????? can't believe for a year now i've been told there is little to be done. and still nothing finished. when will it be finished?????
heman
Farmall Cub
well, now its oct 30th have not heard anything for quite some time now, what has been going on? do you think it will be finish before we get snow here?
Damian Grihalva
High Wheeler
I have good news and bad news for Cringer. I also have bad news and good news for me.
The good news is that this week marks my LAST vacation before PEAK ~ that's what UPS calls the Christmas season. The bad news, I was supposed to spend the time with my family going on vacation and taking some down-time at the SEMA show in Vegas before I hit 'the wall' of 60 hour work weeks. However, I'm quite sure my time will be better served getting Cringer out of my driveway and finishing up the two projects I have sitting before me.
Now for the good and bad news for Cringer. The good news is that by weeks end, it'll be on a transport going home. The bad news, it may or may not be running. IT should be running, but may not be. Regardless, it'll be on the transport.
I hope this is good news to Steve. I hope it'll be running, albeit most likely untested in its entirety. The bad news is that I'm completely unsure that I'll be paid for the last 8ish months of work done to the Scout.
And there you have it. If you can read between the lines, you will see what I'm saying. Frankly, iand in short, this rides going home.
The good news is that this week marks my LAST vacation before PEAK ~ that's what UPS calls the Christmas season. The bad news, I was supposed to spend the time with my family going on vacation and taking some down-time at the SEMA show in Vegas before I hit 'the wall' of 60 hour work weeks. However, I'm quite sure my time will be better served getting Cringer out of my driveway and finishing up the two projects I have sitting before me.
Now for the good and bad news for Cringer. The good news is that by weeks end, it'll be on a transport going home. The bad news, it may or may not be running. IT should be running, but may not be. Regardless, it'll be on the transport.
I hope this is good news to Steve. I hope it'll be running, albeit most likely untested in its entirety. The bad news is that I'm completely unsure that I'll be paid for the last 8ish months of work done to the Scout.
And there you have it. If you can read between the lines, you will see what I'm saying. Frankly, iand in short, this rides going home.
Damian Grihalva
High Wheeler
Job one: Make it run. As a background; we had it running over at Jims but it ran rough. Dylan messed with it a little since we couldn't get it to 2000 rpm (with trouble), but after that, it wouldn't run. So, I pulled the spark plug to re-set the dissy and found it was oil-coated and wet. I was just trying to start it, so I figured the wet was fuel ~ sure enough it smelled like it too. Found TDC, and reinstalled the plug. Cranked, and a BIG POW!.
Jeremy, an Iraq vet, came out of his garage across the street with his hand searching his belt for a side-arm. He looked over at me, I was laughing, and said: 'Didn't expect to hear that this morning!' Next a water guy drove up in a company truck and asked: 'Was that gun fire?!' I informed him it wasn't and was simply a big back-fire. Why? It looks like the starting fluid ignited the unburnt fuel in the exhaust ~ and a big deep bang was the result.
So I kept at it, knowing that I had fuel and spark in roughly the right place. After some twisting of the DUI, it wanted to fire even more. But the timing was off and with the size of teh dissy, you really should re-stab the dissy till you get the right spot. So I re-stuck the dissy a couple times to get the timing adjustment in the sweet spot. After each stuck I tried a restart, and the more I twisted, the more it wanted to run. Finally, after a few stabs, I got it to run on its own.
More tweaking and its starting to run well. Actually sounds good too. LOTS of white smoke though. Holy cow! But the white smoke and what I found on the plugs explains the rough idle, which is to be expected for having sat in its non-running condition for the last 4 years.
The good news is that it seems to be revving quite well up and past 2,000 RPM and I have to be careful to keep it under 3,000. After running for about 5 minutes the white smoke started to subside. So I grabbed a can of SeaFoam and pored it down the throats of the 'carb'. While I was doing that, I killed the motor and let it sit.
SeaFoam is a cleaning agent you can find at the auto parts store. Its meant for lots of things, and one of them is cleaning carbon and buildup out of the combustion camber. Basically, you pore it down the carb and when the motor dies, you let it sit for about 10 minutes. Then you restart the motor and enjoy a HUGE cloud of white that will envelop your immediate area. What happens is that the cleaner loosens and releases the buildup and carbon stuck inside your combustion chamber. Once everything is shook loose, the normal running of the motor will break it off and send it out your exhaust. Its a petroleum product, which is why the white smoke when it burns off after restart. Back in the old days it was a common thing to do with carb'd motors. Some guys used to use water for the same effect. There's arguments weather its as good as a 'SeaFoam-like' product.
Regardless, Cringer starts and runs pretty well. I'm going to see if I can go grab a buddies timing light (since mine disappeared) so I can actually time the motor where it should be. Then I need to hook up the electric fans on our RnD radiator. Then I can leave the truck running for a bit to clear up all the crap ~ Speaking of which, this thing will need an oil change.
Next I need to go get a couple fine-thread nuts to reassemble the passenger side knuckle, but after that, Cringer should drive too.
Jeremy, an Iraq vet, came out of his garage across the street with his hand searching his belt for a side-arm. He looked over at me, I was laughing, and said: 'Didn't expect to hear that this morning!' Next a water guy drove up in a company truck and asked: 'Was that gun fire?!' I informed him it wasn't and was simply a big back-fire. Why? It looks like the starting fluid ignited the unburnt fuel in the exhaust ~ and a big deep bang was the result.
So I kept at it, knowing that I had fuel and spark in roughly the right place. After some twisting of the DUI, it wanted to fire even more. But the timing was off and with the size of teh dissy, you really should re-stab the dissy till you get the right spot. So I re-stuck the dissy a couple times to get the timing adjustment in the sweet spot. After each stuck I tried a restart, and the more I twisted, the more it wanted to run. Finally, after a few stabs, I got it to run on its own.
More tweaking and its starting to run well. Actually sounds good too. LOTS of white smoke though. Holy cow! But the white smoke and what I found on the plugs explains the rough idle, which is to be expected for having sat in its non-running condition for the last 4 years.
The good news is that it seems to be revving quite well up and past 2,000 RPM and I have to be careful to keep it under 3,000. After running for about 5 minutes the white smoke started to subside. So I grabbed a can of SeaFoam and pored it down the throats of the 'carb'. While I was doing that, I killed the motor and let it sit.
SeaFoam is a cleaning agent you can find at the auto parts store. Its meant for lots of things, and one of them is cleaning carbon and buildup out of the combustion camber. Basically, you pore it down the carb and when the motor dies, you let it sit for about 10 minutes. Then you restart the motor and enjoy a HUGE cloud of white that will envelop your immediate area. What happens is that the cleaner loosens and releases the buildup and carbon stuck inside your combustion chamber. Once everything is shook loose, the normal running of the motor will break it off and send it out your exhaust. Its a petroleum product, which is why the white smoke when it burns off after restart. Back in the old days it was a common thing to do with carb'd motors. Some guys used to use water for the same effect. There's arguments weather its as good as a 'SeaFoam-like' product.
Regardless, Cringer starts and runs pretty well. I'm going to see if I can go grab a buddies timing light (since mine disappeared) so I can actually time the motor where it should be. Then I need to hook up the electric fans on our RnD radiator. Then I can leave the truck running for a bit to clear up all the crap ~ Speaking of which, this thing will need an oil change.
Next I need to go get a couple fine-thread nuts to reassemble the passenger side knuckle, but after that, Cringer should drive too.
