How much liter noise is normal for a 152? It goes away after about 5 seconds and when the psi starts going up. I have Rotella syn and a wix filter(canister). It sounds terrible. Once the pressure gets up the engine sounds like a sewing machine. Seems like a lot of wear from the 5 seconds with every start.
---K, most lifters in our IH bairn are hydraulic. There is a lifter body, a bore in the lifter body that houses a return spring and a lifter piston/plunger, that has a check valve on the bottom. Above the Plunger is a socket. A circlip holds the parts together when assembled. Not only must oil be present to keep the lifters full/primed, but also, it must be thin enough to work between the surfaces.
Check out this page. Not IH, but similar in design & pretty thorough in illustration & description. Also some MP3 files for you to listen to... lol. I haven't checked em out.
---The oil if it "leaks down" will need to have the air replaced with oil. Clean, working lifters and correct bore diameter in relation to lifter wall is the only thing that will prevent this. Too heavy an oil just makes it worse, especially in winter temps.
---There's nothing wrong with running a full synthetic in an older engine, unless the engine is dirty internally and it might be cleaned too fast, plugging filters, dislodging carbons and sending them toward wear surfaces or where they can tear seals as well as cleaning sludge from around damaged seals; But hey, finding a leak, due to the damaged seal leaking once it's clean, solves a problem doesn't it; And while thicker oil might fix the leak, it doesn't repair the problem, nor does a thicker than specified oil help an engine do anything more than wear more rapidly. There are issues with using a diesel oil in worn engines having blow-by. The detergents can cause deposits in the combustion chamber... we also aren't suppose to use detergent oils in our engines, but who has listened to that in 10 years... besides me when Castrol HD was a good oil?
---What weight is your oil? It did get quite cold this year, still is... and if you just did a change with 5W-40, I would venture to say that 40 is still a bit heavy for winter. IIRC, winter months call for a 30 weight. I have always ran 30 weight in winter and 40 weight in spring/summer/fall when a heavier oil is better vs heat.
---There is no shelved, 2007+,
conventional diesel* oil that I have seen, that has an SM(1.0) or lower rating or that is specified for use with pre-1993 gasoline engines, so if you're running Rotella T6 Synthetic, you're doing alright... AFAIK. That can change once we're oil-savvy enough to discover a chemical in the new oils that causes concern... or once we get to that point in time where it happens to many and we say "it broke down early" rather than "what do you expect from a 500k mile truck?".
---For reading pleasure,
here's the start page for Shell Lubricants for PDS/TDS & MSDS.
The TDS for T6 shows as being approved for SH, SJ & SL as well as the dreaded SM. Now that I have found their vault, when I have time, I will dig and look further at their T5, but I will call their Tech department and discuss with their lab rat, the key principles we all wish to know about.
---FWIW, there was no data under "passenger cars" when I searched.
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