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Josh Schrecengost

Farmall Cub
Joined
Jun 28, 2020
Messages
99
Points
18
Rocker surgery begins.
 

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Josh Schrecengost

Farmall Cub
Joined
Jun 28, 2020
Messages
99
Points
18
Got a good bit of the outer rocker hugged out and discovered my inner rocker is much worse than I thought. I think my plan will be to clean all the rust I can, stabilize it with rust Mort, and weld a patch onto the inner rocker. Then I can replace the outer rocker and move on to the front cab mount and wedge. I'm leary of messing with the dog legs and/or taking too much out and screwing up the straightness of the body.
 

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Josh Schrecengost

Farmall Cub
Joined
Jun 28, 2020
Messages
99
Points
18
Chopped out the cancerous portions of the inner rocker and welded in a piece of 1/8" angle. My mig skills are barely adequate but it is definitely more solid than what was there!
 

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J.J.

Lives in an IH Dealership
Joined
Dec 14, 2003
Messages
7,302
Points
113
Location
Castalian Springs, TN
too late now, but the best way to remove the bushings is a hole saw. Buzz thru the rubber that will leave just the outer metal sleeve. If your lucky that will come out pretty easy, if not, you make a small cut with your hacksaw with the blade turned upside down (you'll have to assemble it with the blade inverted) enough to make a notch, hammer and a punch to make it curl and it will come right out. Easy Peesy.....

Kudos to Mike Moore at Scoutco for turning me on to this trick. Did it on my '76 and just a couple of weeks ago on my '75.

JJ in TN
 

Josh Schrecengost

Farmall Cub
Joined
Jun 28, 2020
Messages
99
Points
18
Chipping away at the infamously rusted wedge and bodymount. The entire design is mind boggling. Why would anyone think this was a good idea or cost effective?
 

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Josh Schrecengost

Farmall Cub
Joined
Jun 28, 2020
Messages
99
Points
18
Getting the wedge and body mount cobbled back in there. I bought the pieces from anything scout. They are OK. Probably a little heavier duty than oem. The more I think about it, the more I wish I would have just replaced them with 1x3x1/8 tube. It would have been easier. I went with the replacement parts because I was nervous about fabricating something custom. However, they were not a perfect fit and it was difficult to get to some of the places that needed welding. I'm having a heck of a time getting pretty welds out of the mig. I just ran out of the wire that came with the machine. Hopefully better wire will help.
 

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GENE HAWTREY

Farmall Cub
Joined
Oct 2, 2014
Messages
161
Points
28
Location
KLAMATH FALLS, ORE
View attachment 182329 View attachment 182330 View attachment 182331 New Master cylinder, starter and extended brake line in the rear today. The solenoid cap was cracked on the old starter, which might explain the occasional click without turning over. I ordered the brake hoses from SSS and the back is fine but the front ones don't have the correct fittings on the caliper end. I have to do some research and see what is going on there.
I USED to order from SSS. prices are way too rich for me. I use IH america and anything scout almost exclusively. I bought a wiring harness from SSS a couple of years back. It was a disaster. That is when I switched.
 

Lars-S

Binder Driver
Joined
Jun 11, 2020
Messages
891
Points
93
I'm having a heck of a time getting pretty welds out of the mig. I just ran out of the wire that came with the machine. Hopefully better wire will help.
Pretty is nice but if the penetration without excessive warpage is a better goal IMO. Maybe because mine look so crappy LOL. I haven't used a mig in a good 10 years let alone on sheet metal. I've been reading and watching a lot of videos as I try to decide on a welder. New wire will probably help but the size and type is what count as much if not more, a good wire feeder on the mig (mine was junko), and setting up the machine to match may help even with the aftermarket pieces you got. Lots of others doing nice work on this forum so they are better equipped to recommend size and type (flux vs non and use gas) along with setting for the wire and gauge metal.
 

Josh Schrecengost

Farmall Cub
Joined
Jun 28, 2020
Messages
99
Points
18
Pretty is nice but if the penetration without excessive warpage is a better goal IMO. Maybe because mine look so crappy LOL. I haven't used a mig in a good 10 years let alone on sheet metal. I've been reading and watching a lot of videos as I try to decide on a welder. New wire will probably help but the size and type is what count as much if not more, a good wire feeder on the mig (mine was junko), and setting up the machine to match may help even with the aftermarket pieces you got. Lots of others doing nice work on this forum so they are better equipped to recommend size and type (flux vs non and use gas) along with setting for the wire and gauge metal.
The wire actually made a huge difference. Virtually no splatter with the new 0.030. The stuff that came with the welder from HB was junk. The welder is working fine though.
 

Josh Schrecengost

Farmall Cub
Joined
Jun 28, 2020
Messages
99
Points
18
Replacing body mount bushings and started tacking in the outer rocker panel. The width of the bottom angle section on the replacement panel are not quite correct. I'm gonna have to take about an 1/8" out of it length wise for the lines to match.
 

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RinTX

Y-Block King
Joined
Jan 19, 2013
Messages
3,221
Points
113
Location
Ft Worth, TX
I noticed significant improvement in my welds and welding when I ditched the flux core wire and went to solid wire with shielding gas.
 

Lars-S

Binder Driver
Joined
Jun 11, 2020
Messages
891
Points
93
On videos I have been watching couple mention the not using flux, go with small size .023 or .30, and using higher argon/co2 mix aka above 70%. The reason for that is it helps keep the warpage down by controlling the heat and penetration. The arc gets impacted. I'm still on the fence of spending the extra and going to TIG Mom would be proud I'm procrastinating this long and not just trying to buy the most expensive LOL
 

Josh Schrecengost

Farmall Cub
Joined
Jun 28, 2020
Messages
99
Points
18
More progress. I'm gonna tack the floor board in tomorrow and test fit the door.
 

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Josh Schrecengost

Farmall Cub
Joined
Jun 28, 2020
Messages
99
Points
18
Well poop. I've got door issues. I test fit the drivers door tonight and it is not fitting well. Quick recap, with the top on and a horizontal brace between the A and B pillars, I removed the outer rocker, replaced a section of the inner rocker, cut out the front half of the floorboard and replaced the wedge and body mount. Then I replaced all the body mount bushings and tightened things down. I tacked in the outer rocker and floorboard. Now the distance between my A and B pillars is 45 13/16. The passenger side is 46. I didn't measure that before I started. Now my door gap is too tight at the front and back. I don't know how that is possible but it sure is a problem. Its like my door gap shrunk and the hinges are holding the door too close to the front fender.. Any help?
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Lars-S

Binder Driver
Joined
Jun 11, 2020
Messages
891
Points
93
Is that the same side door (drivers) in both photos? It would be good to see one from a distance that shows how the entire door is fitting. If I read your post correctly the driver door now has a narrower, by 3/16, pillar space to fit into. However if those photos are of the same door then you still may have enough room. However when the front and rear pillar got squared to each other the door is now tilted between them causing the loss of space. The hinges on the doors/body have multiple directions of movement. If that is the same door then it looks like rotating it on its axis - top toward front, bottom toward rear would square it up. Then it may not be hitting like this..

Bolts on front pillar allow in and out from pillar(body) movement. Bolts on door allow tilting up down top to bottom.

Mine currently seems to be bowed out on the bottom (wider than top) because I didn't brace it like you did before cutting out and replacing my rockers and floor.
 
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Josh Schrecengost

Farmall Cub
Joined
Jun 28, 2020
Messages
99
Points
18
Is that the same side door (drivers) in both photos? It would be good to see one from a distance that shows how the entire door is fitting. If I read your post correctly the driver door now has a narrower, by 3/16, pillar space to fit into. However if those photos are of the same door then you still may have enough room. However when the front and rear pillar got squared to each other the door is now tilted between them causing the loss of space. The hinges on the doors/body have multiple directions of movement. If that is the same door then it looks like rotating it on its axis - top toward front, bottom toward rear would square it up. Then it may not be hitting like this..

Bolts on front pillar allow in and out from pillar(body) movement. Bolts on door allow tilting up down top to bottom.

Mine currently seems to be bowed out on the bottom (wider than top) because I didn't brace it like you did before cutting out and replacing my rockers and floor.
Thanks Lars. Yeah, it is the same door. I was thinking with all the pressure I put on the door getting it hung that I may have forced it forward where the hinges attack. I'll take the door liner off tonight and see what I can do.
 

Josh Schrecengost

Farmall Cub
Joined
Jun 28, 2020
Messages
99
Points
18
On videos I have been watching couple mention the not using flux, go with small size .023 or .30, and using higher argon/co2 mix aka above 70%. The reason for that is it helps keep the warpage down by controlling the heat and penetration. The arc gets impacted. I'm still on the fence of spending the extra and going to TIG Mom would be proud I'm procrastinating this long and not just trying to buy the most expensive LOL
I'm running 0.030 with 25%CO2/Argon at about 16 cfm
 
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