Hi Everybody, I'm new to this forum and I want to say thanks in advance for any help. I have just been given a well cared for, one owner 1951 model 158 freezer that appears to be in good condition with one exception-- when I have the temperature control turned all of the way down the internal temperature of the freezer only gets down to 14 degrees. This freezer uses R22 refrigerant. I'd like to be able to get down to 0 degrees. Does anybody know if it is realistic to get an appliance like this serviced for a reasonable cost? Are there many technicians able to service r22 these days? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks again!
BinderPlanet.com
Welcome to BinderPlanet.com the World's Premier IH Website.
Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
IH model 158 freezer question
- Thread starter Rob Nold
- Start date
Dana Strong
Lives in an IH Dealership
It might help if you listed your location under your Personal Details, so members have an idea how close you are to them.
I don't know that unit so can't give specific advice about its problems -- modern systems are silver soldered together and use hermetically sealed pumps, so should never leak and thus be low on Freon -- and the few old professionals I knew in the field have died while the younger ones aren't available at the moment to ask, but I'd think you could find someone with the knowledge, equipment and some R-22 to do the work if you do a bit of looking/asking. Just as with old cars, stationary engines, time pieces, etc. there are still people who appreciate such old equipment, and still hordes of old equipment, parts and Freon around. I recently (last summer) sold (or gave away??) my last bottle of virgin R-22, and another with some remaining -134, but have access to a decent amount of R-12 still.
Greg R
Lives in an IH Dealership
I used to work on those type of freezers before I retired. I can think of 3 or 4 things to check if I was closer. Does it shut off at 14* or does it just keep running? If it shuts off, then the temp control could be going bad and can be replaced. If it keeps running then there are several things requiring tools and gauges to check with. That would be the hard part for me. Finding a shop who can work with you and make your project their project and make it neat and follow good practice. They're good on electronics, and changing like for like; but just not what it used to be keeping stuff alive. R22 is expensive, over $1,000 for a jug; a huge overhead for a job only needing a pound or so at the most; so a shop with some on hand, hopefully virgin, would be one positive find.
This is a heads-up on what you might encounter reviving old appliances. If it is the cold control, it could be a DIY'er. If it is going to need tools or a torch, the best thing you can do is ask around. Maybe you can find a skilled person who does it part time, or a shop with a good reputation and knowledgeable techs who've been around as they say. Cost could be anywhere from $50-60 for a cold control to maybe $300-500 if it takes shop time and material. Let us know the answer to the question in the paragraph above.
This is a heads-up on what you might encounter reviving old appliances. If it is the cold control, it could be a DIY'er. If it is going to need tools or a torch, the best thing you can do is ask around. Maybe you can find a skilled person who does it part time, or a shop with a good reputation and knowledgeable techs who've been around as they say. Cost could be anywhere from $50-60 for a cold control to maybe $300-500 if it takes shop time and material. Let us know the answer to the question in the paragraph above.
HI guys! Thanks Again for your help! I live in Kansas City, Kansas. It just shuts off when it reaches 14 degrees. I'm highly mechanically inclined myself, just not in HVAC. It would probably be easy to put in a new temp control. Now I need to find out where to get one. Merry Christmas to all!
Last edited:
Dana Strong
Lives in an IH Dealership
If you let your cursor hover over your name in the upper right, a menu will drop down; click on the top Personal Details and the page with them will appear. Then put that information in the appropriate boxes so it will show up in the box to the left of your post, under your name, every time you do so.
WRT the repair, do you want to keep all parts completely original, or would modern substitutes work well for temperature switches, start capacitors and such? Many parts have names and numbers on them so can you can search the internet for original-style ones, and/or replacement of them with modern components is easy if you understand the system. Decades ago when I built my first refrigeration system, I got control switches and expansion valves from Grainger, which at the time only sold to 'certified companies'...so I had to drop the name and address of a business a friend worked at, since I was still in High School.... and although their selection has decreased over the years (as they expanded into everything else), it's still a place to start looking. Another is Johnson Supply.
Because of the prohibition on releasing these old Freon compounds into the atmosphere, businesses not only need to use approved recovery equipment but I believe also need to document things. I haven't worked on any systems since those laws were put into effect, but being the conservative type, always recovered Freon even before, using homemade equipment. But no need to discuss this aspect more now, when no trouble-shooting has yet been done. Start with Greg's questions about its behavior and go from there.
Greg R
Lives in an IH Dealership
I may be able to help with that. Unplug, then remove any access panels to get to the control switch/knob and pull out. Be careful with the switch as the wiring will probably be stiff and brittle. Also the sensor element/cap tube will be coiled and bit and probably a long section inserted in a tube. What you want to do is to carefully remove the switch and post pictures of it. There will be some numbers on the switch that can be used to cross reference to today's numbers and switches. The numbers and photos must be clear and legible, or at least write them down if the photos don't work out. That can give two options. You can try locally. Key Refrigeration Supply branches might be a good bet, they seem similar to RSD out west here and if the manager or counter people are savvy, they should be able to pull up a match. If you hit a dead end, I may be able to source one out here.
Jeff Jamison
Lives in an IH Dealership
It sounds like your cold control(theremostat) read your tag again as a freezer of that age should be R12,not R22
Dana Strong
Lives in an IH Dealership
Have you tested the switch yet?
A google search for that number (413921R91, a standard IH format) brought up a MARS Cross-reference pdf:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...%20X-Ref.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3P057f5a0iIu6EgAgavc04
Using Find, that shows the MARS equivalent number to be 26232.
BTW, Jeff's comment about R-12 seems likely. R-22 was used in larger commercial equipment mainly and I assume this unit is for household use.
A google search for that number (413921R91, a standard IH format) brought up a MARS Cross-reference pdf:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...%20X-Ref.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3P057f5a0iIu6EgAgavc04
Using Find, that shows the MARS equivalent number to be 26232.
BTW, Jeff's comment about R-12 seems likely. R-22 was used in larger commercial equipment mainly and I assume this unit is for household use.
Greg R
Lives in an IH Dealership
I am assuming there are no other numbers. I would recommend one of these Ranco A30-313. The Range is -20 to +21* with an 8.5* differential between cut-in and cut-out; a 20 amp contact rating and plenty of cap/sensor tube to snake in where the old one was. Be real careful with cap tube, they do NOT take kindly to bends or kinks. Bend only once, but no more than 2 and not in the same place. They're all pretty much universal now and Ranco is one of the more durable and popular controls among professionals. You might also double check at the local refrigeration supplier taking yours as a sample.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Ranco-A30-313-Ice-Machine-Control-w-42-Capillary-20F-Cold-off
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Ranco-A30-313-Ice-Machine-Control-w-42-Capillary-20F-Cold-off
Last edited:
Thanks for all your help guys! I'm not sure how I missed this angle of the switch. I got a photo of another angle that hopefully yields some useful information.
Last edited:
Dana Strong
Lives in an IH Dealership
Yes, they both refer to mono-chloro, di-fluoromethane.
I guess, just like its trucks, IH built industrial-quality 
coolers too.
coolers too.
Jeff Jamison
Lives in an IH Dealership
That's interesting,all 3 refrigerators I had where R12.Worked in the industry for 30 years and never saw that,see we do learn something new every day(doesn't mean we remember it though)
Again, Much gratitude guys for all the help! Just so you are aware of the contribution that you are making to a bigger picture--I am using this freezer for a very specialized purpose. This last July I found a 46 y.o. girl (friend of a friend) with severe multiple sclerosis trapped on her bathroom floor laying in a puddle of blood and covered with her own feces. Her name is Jennifer and at 5 foot 5 inches of height her body weight was down to 85 pounds and she was stuck in an extremely dysfunctional relationship with her sister who lived at her house. Jennifer was terrified that her sister would come home and find her on the bathroom floor again and yell her for an hour like she did the day before. I managed to get the sister kicked out and I changed the locks and I immediately began cooking special food called the Wahls protocol and the food is making an amazing difference in Jennifer's life. When we started in July Jennifer had no feeling from the waist down and was unable to move any muscles down there. Slowly but surely the feeling returned to her legs. Her toes started to wiggle for the first time in many years. Then her ankles started to move, her knees started to move, then her hips started to move. Jennifer had an MRI recently and the neurologist that had been prescribing her terrible immune suppressing medications for 25 years had to admit that there was no inflammation on her brain for the first time and significant healing had happened to her brain lesions. She was able to go off the terrible medications that were costing the taxpayers $6800.00 a month. Now almost six months from the day we started Jennifer is able to stand up under her own leg power from her wheelchair multiple times per day. It appears that she will eventually be able to walk again, drive a car, work a job, and who knows what else? All from super high nutrition density. The food is raw and natural and as such has low shelf life so I need a lot of freezer space for storage and this IH has got the space I need. So you are helping work a miracle and it would be hard for me to find words to adequately express my gratitude!
Last edited:
Greg R
Lives in an IH Dealership
Just yank away the old putty. Most freezers had a tube that the control's cap tube went in. You should be able to withdraw it without issue. When I install a new one, I coat it with a temperature conductive compound that also acts as a slick-um to make it easier.
Use new putty such as a duct sealer or what electrician's use, "monkey sh**". It comes in a small brick, then mold that in. Your refrigeration supplier should have all this stuff and the control; or at least the sealer and conductive compound might be at Home Depot.
Here's another alternative for a control:https://www.supplyhouse.com/Ranco-A30-311-Ice-Machine-Control-w-42-Capillary-22F-Cold-off
This might work better or at least have a better range for compressor on/off. Let us know if any refrig suppliers were helpful.
Test the freezer for a week or so before you put expensive food in it.
Use new putty such as a duct sealer or what electrician's use, "monkey sh**". It comes in a small brick, then mold that in. Your refrigeration supplier should have all this stuff and the control; or at least the sealer and conductive compound might be at Home Depot.
Here's another alternative for a control:https://www.supplyhouse.com/Ranco-A30-311-Ice-Machine-Control-w-42-Capillary-22F-Cold-off
This might work better or at least have a better range for compressor on/off. Let us know if any refrig suppliers were helpful.
Test the freezer for a week or so before you put expensive food in it.