High Steer springunder Part #'s

Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by Brandon A., Nov 25, 2020.


  1. Brandon A.

    Brandon A. High Wheeler

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    Hello I recently installed high steer knuckles on my spring under front (with reverse shackle spring mounts with 2.5 lift springs) dana 44 72 scout II with spring over in the rear. Someday I would like to go spring over in the front but that won't happen for a while. I needed a stronger setup with a raised connecting point (on the side for tie-rod) to help with bump steer. I decided to try a high steer setup that would work when I go spring over in the future. *
    * I could not find a write up on sprung under High Steer knuckles so I thought I would post my findings......
    * If I would have had the ability to do a cut and turn I probably would have been able to eliminate the bump-steer and saved money on the high
    steer conversion but I was not able to do that at this time....
    Parts used:
    1. Knuckles: I bought mine from PartsMike.com: They are for GM dana 44 and need the IH 8 hole pattern drilled for the spindle as GM has only
    6 holes. I wanted knuckles with stock location for draglink so I ordered these instead of scout knuckles he has without the factory
    arm.
    * I drilled the IH pattern using the IH spindle as a guide on a drill press.
    -APM159 GM Replacement RH knuckle
    -APM160 KNUCKLE, Steering left driver side GM
    *If you have the time you can save some cash and find used knuckles but it can be hard to find a passenger side flat top driver
    side is easy to locate.
    2. High Steer Arm: I ordered from PartsMike: DM4009R It has the dual hole in case I want to go High steer for both arms later on.
    Here is a link to the dual arm kit: http://www.partsmike.com/index.php/products/1-dm4009-d44-dual-hole-high-steer-arm
    3. Tie-Rod: I already had DOM tubing so I just welded in inserts to go with Parts Mike tre's.
    4. Tre's: EX2234LHD and EX2234RHD these are a direct match for High Steer arm and lowered PItman arm.
    5.Tube adapter Weld in for Tre's: DM5974H and DM5975H
    6. Drag-link: Here I wanted to use the stock drag link and IH tre's with the new flat top GM style knuckles so I found an adapter sleeve
    that allows one to use an IH tre in a larger GM hole!!!!! This took some work to find so take note: It is for ford guys but work for us
    too!
    Tre adapter: Works for IH tre's to larger GM style knuckles!!!!
    https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/produ...8GYoM2O0bKCi1p7o3zJTMaeBPCUrpp8xoCevYQAvD_BwE
    7. Pitman arm: I tried to use my stock IH pitman arm. Due to it's (longer length) (since shortening the passenger side arm) I could no
    longer turn my wheels while not moving or on a 4x4 trail which is what I have this rig for so I bought a shorter pitman arm.
    I believe it is a skyjacker part but at PartsMike it costs more and does not say who makes it.... However, I can turn my wheels with
    no problem once changing over to this shorter pitman arm. It is about 3" shorter than IH arm. It has a drop to help with
    bump-steer.
    Pitman arm: PM1104
    8. Stud kit: PM06HG Goes with High steer from PartsMike
    9. Ball JOints: I went with Mevotechs most durable level. Very well made and greasable. However, I could not turn my knuckle with a
    there caster corrector installed. I called the techline and he told me if the C's on the axle are sligthly bent this can happen with
    caster corrector installed. He told me a cheaper ball joint with plastic inside for a liner would be more forgiving and may
    still work with the caster corrector. * Well for a test I put the old IH knuckles back on with caster correctors installed. (These
    knuckles still had tight ball joints installed but I don't know who made them as they are old) I was able to turn these knuckles
    with caster correctors installed....... SOOOOOO I am at a loss on this issue. *** Don't use Mevotechs top of the line ball joints
    if planning on running caster correctors...... I hope to do a cut and turn someday anyway.........
    Here are some pics: Everything fits together well and should work just fine for a trail vehicle....
    IMG_20201025_174605.jpg IMG_20201117_173353.jpg IMG_20201121_155339.jpg IMG_20201121_155410.jpg IMG_20201121_155252.jpg IMG_20201121_155609.jpg IMG_20201121_155523.jpg


     
  2. winchested

    winchested Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    How long are those front spring fangs from bottom of frame to the bolt hole?

    And what length shackles are you running on the front springs through the frame?

    That to me looks like possibly your major geometry problem that killed the caster compelety.
     
  3. Brandon A.

    Brandon A. High Wheeler

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    Yep it did, you are correct sir!... Primarily this is for trail use so that was not a concern at the time it was built. Someday I will do a cut and turn....
     
    winchested likes this.

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