Any advice on replacing those wires? Especially inside the fridge itself and at the compressor side of things. Compressor still works as the fridge was cold when i got home. And i thought this was a sealed system so no recharge/service?First off , if that refrigerator is still working; you need to take steps to protect it AND your house. That wiring, at least the exposed stuff, is dangerously close to a short circuit condition. The insulation is just too rotten to deal with, and if I was there; I would totally rewire the fridge for you. If the compressor start components still work, and it seems like they do, you're golden and leave well enough alone. The compressor doesn't look bad itself on the terminations, maybe just rewire to the compressor leads. Those extra leads in the picture can be anything. A thermostat, a mullion heater, or a light in the door could be part of the circuit.
You do not want the compressor to run forever, it needs to cycle. Freezers especially were forced to take at least a 15 minute break every 6 to 8 hours through use of a timer. You won't see the timers in 1950s models so much , but as the use and lifestyle changed, they were very important by the 1970s.
R12 is still available, legally. Practically: no one carries it or much at all. The cost is so high for a jug, and the demand so low that many shop owners don't see a short term ROI on having the stuff, plus some places have a business inventory tax so there's that. What I'm saying is R12 is rare, but not impossible. The next is service. A hermetic system such as yours was routinely serviced and charged years ago. It was my day job for 20 years and we had tools for such. It's not hard, but there is a technique. I do not know the field today, and I don't know what today's techs know. You can weigh the charge, or use a frost line.
Randall's gasket idea may work for you. I don't think so much for freezers, but fridges may work okay. You can check your gasket one of two ways. My favorite is the dollar bill test. Put a dollar on the jamb and close the door. A good seal will give slight resistance when you pull the dollar out. No resistance usually means no contact or a gap. Another is a chalk test. Take some blue carpenter's chalk and coat the gasket. Shut the door, then open it. Wherever the gasket contacts the jamb, there will be a blue line or mark.
If the original cord had 3 wires going to the refrigerator, one would be considered the Hot, another the Neutral, and the third a Ground. The purpose of a ground is to provide a low resistance path for any electricity 'leaking' from the other two to take, rather than going through you if you touch something connected to that 'leak'. A true ground is a connection to the earth ('ground'). Many appliances didn't use the ground wire in the 1950's.Speaking of which, PLEASE correct me if i am wrong in ANY way, the thermostat needs 2 wires, one directly from the hot plug, then another going to the compressor so if its open (too cold) its off but if its closed (too hot) its on, so wire hot from the new wires directly into the thermostat, then back to the compressor (it uses 3.3 OR 3.6 amps per the info plate so about 400 watts, which isnt that much), boom the thermostat problem is solved, then for the light in the fridge wire the door switch directly into the hot wire leading to the thermostat, so when that circuit is open (door closed) no light but circuit is closed (door open) theres light. Thermostat doesnt need a ground since all that does is allow or disallow flow of electricity, but the light does as the electricity "stops" at the light but it needs a circuit to work.
Okay. I seriously need a wiring diagram for this fridge, theres 3 wires going to the thermostat/light, which makes sense (2 hot, 1 ground) BUT theres 4 wires coming out from whatever box is under there.
I do not know the first thing about how resistance works, other than its called Ohms
No, as I said ("The circuit does have to be complete for the current to flow and the motor to run, so you're right that power from the cord going to the thermostat switch, then to the motor, and back to the second cord conductor..."), two wires are required but neither is called a Ground. The same terminology has to be used consistently by everyone, or nobody knows for sure what someone else really means.I dont get how a circuit can work without a ground, so in theory anything on AC just needs one wire?
If you're referring to me wrt the camera, besides being a waste of money, I don't want to be bothered keeping track of where I last put something like that; or having to think about where it's sitting while I weld, roll under a vehicle, climb a tree holding a chainsaw, or ride a bike over rough terrain; I also don't need being bothered by unwanted calls all day, or its being tracked while I carry one anywhere I go. My own rotary phones send and receive a more clear signal, never stop working even if the power is off, are always where I left them, and don't have any security risks associated with them. They do just fine.Get a SMART PHONE !