Thanks Davis! Very pleased with how they turned out! Thanks Tres! I’m going to lay them out very similar to that picture. Maybe a little closer together. I may add a couple more gauges but not sure on that. Also, I’m planning to get this switch for the dual battery system and this will go right below the tranny temp gauge. Thanks Scott! Picture really doesn’t do them justice. The AN fittings will make it heat faster!!
Yep definitely wet here, glad they cancelled the NTB round up, so Jay- you can still make it...hopefully NTB picks a new date soon.
Really enjoying the build. Lot's of great stuff going on here. Quick hijack. I think it was determined that you've got a 304 in that scout. Two features on your firewall differ from ours and they're circled in your pic below. The semi-sphere I think I get. Our clutch linkage was poking through a hole already cut in that general area. We'll take care of that. The notched corner in the second circle. Is your clearance pretty tight there? We're putting a 304 into a scout that had a 152 and haven't set it in place yet so I'm thinking I'll need to cut out that corner area and make it look like yours. Next time you're out there could you measure the sides of that triangle piece? There are pretty good reference points via the throttle linkage hole and whatever the other one is, so I'm sure I could fake it. Again, great build. Really enjoying it. -Steve
Not always easy to call something off like that but, looking at the radar and news, I think the prudent thing to do. We will have to see what date they come up with so a possibility. We are planning for the 2016 HCB Bash and the camping reservations are already made! Maybe the 69 will be done!! Thanks Steve and no hijack at all! This did originally have a 304 but we have since replaced with a 345. I will post up the measurements for you tomorrow – no problem. We had to notch that corner because the engine is larger, the engine was moved back 5/8th of an inch due to the electric radiator fans we will be using and the extra support we added to the back of the engine. The frame mounts for the engine were not moved just new holes drilled further back for the engine mounts themselves. If you need any other measurements as you go along just let me know.
Thanks Jay. I had done some quick measurements and it looked like for us it was going to be tight. Yours looks so factory I must have convinced myself it came that way. Thanks for the quick reply. -Steve
Worked a little on the dash panel today. Following Guido’s lead I used an adjustable fly cutter to cut the holes. OK I don’t think my “fly cutter” was as robust as Guido’s , as it is just a cheap drywall hole cutter from HF, but taking it very slow it worked! I had to adjust my plan a little and will put the switch on the left side. Back view. Gauges are very slim and only required a little trimming of the dash opening at the top and bottom. Plan is to drill and tap holes in the panel for studs instead of using screws.
Nice work on the gauges! Those SpeedHut gauges are slim, the mounting rings are nice too instead of the typical gauge mounting U-brackets. I made some quick connects to help tidy up the wiring behind the dash, and makes the installation (or future removal) so much easier. They are male/female plugs so they can only hook up one way so once you get it wired up, you don't have to sort through the wires again.
Thanks Guido! I will incorporate those connections into our harness! Taking a lead from Gary’s build (Jon' Scout, AKA 30 day Scout build Part 2) we added the 1990 Plymouth Colt struts to our hood. Really like how this turned out and well worth the time! Also glad to get rid of the hood support bar and associated hardware! We got new struts off of ebay from this seller: StrongArm 4961L 4961R Rear Hatch Liftgate Tailgate Lift Supports Struts. They came with the ends attached and I just flattened them to fit our mounts. This bracket was formed to fit the radius in the hood and then the tab welded on. Will replace the bolts as I goofed on what size I needed and they are just a bit too short. Strengthened this area up with a bracket that we bent up and welded it in. Here it is closed. Makes opening the hood a whole lot easier!!
Nice execution, looks great. Going to have to re-steal that eventually. Love the shot from inside the engine bay. -Steve
Hood struts look goooood. Nice job. I need to add hood struts to my list, too. For now, the old 3/4" wooden dowel is still in service.
Thanks Steve! Thanks! Guido I think I have an old stock metal rod that you are welcome to use in the interim! Even wrapped in the finest electrical tape to cut down on noise and vibration! Thanks Davis! Yes it does allow for a nice wide opening which I really like! Also when it closes you get the weight of the hood about ¾ of the way down and you are not fighting the struts to close the hood.
Really like how wide it opens too. Great execution! Going to have to incorporate this on the new tub for tRusti.
I may have to use that idea as well since I almost chopped off my head the other day when I bumped my hood support bar really hard. It almost came out!
I realize its not on the frame now but just wondering how high the hood will be when open? Can you close it from the sides?
He is going to have to close it from the side, unless he puts some sort of pull strap on the front. I have to close mine from the side and ours should be roughly the same height.
Wait, you guys don't hang out with basketball stars? I'm thinking if Jay's rig is as high as tRusti, it will be easier to stand on the bumper to check under the hood. So just use the hood to slow the decent when jumping back off the bumper. Cheaper than repacking a parachute for each jump.