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Colonel Mustard - 1975 IH Travelall 150

MrKenmore

Dreams of Cub Cadets
When I lowered my tailgate glass, I could tell the motor was mad at me. Very sluggish. I know this means the glass and metal base for the glass had come out of the flocked rubber run channel on the driver's side. I thought I had corrected this issue previously by aligning the metal channel at a more favorable position. I guess that did not do the trick. Sure enough the glass was riding between the rubber run channel and the metal receiver for the run channel.

While I was looking closely at it (tailgate down with the glass out and supported), I notice a lot of movement was possible side to side. I realized it did not matter the alignment was fixed as the metal J hook on the bottom of the glass had the ability to jump completely out of the channel. The fix was to install a 3/16" shim at the top of each metal channel. This limited the side to side movement a lot. I think this will work. The plastic shim:
20210117_132109.jpg

The way I would find the glass when the motor was telling me something was wrong. It had been doing this for quite a while as the metal on the J hook was worn.
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File footage of the correct resting position of the glass.
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Chris Cooper

High Wheeler
My rebuilt clock is intermittently working. What a bummer. MrsKenmore had sent this to Clock Works for a rebuild. Not sure what happened.

THAT is an authentic restoration, then: '70's auto clocks were infamous for their lack of reliability. The first one I ever saw that actually worked was the VDO Quartzeit clock in my dad's '77 VW Dasher. It fascinated me.
 

MrKenmore

Dreams of Cub Cadets
THAT is an authentic restoration, then: '70's auto clocks were infamous for their lack of reliability. The first one I ever saw that actually worked was the VDO Quartzeit clock in my dad's '77 VW Dasher. It fascinated me.
The clock guy inquired if we wanted it to be restored to original spec or to swap out to a quartz movement. We stuck with the original spec. Maybe we should have done the quartz upgrade!
 

ParamedicRN

Farmall Cub
The one in the 79 corvette doesn't work, which means a nasty middle dash tear out, and replacemeNt. The suggestions are update the movement unless attempting a concourse the vehicle.
It'll stay non functional for a bit. I'd rather fight a stuck ih motor, stuck inner budd lug, and stuck brakes before I tackle the vette dash lol
B

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

MrKenmore

Dreams of Cub Cadets
Next order of business is likely the headliner. MrsKenmore has a plan in place where we adhere the existing panels with padded perforated marine vinyl. Sound deadening and insulation would also get installed. What I would like to work out now is the idea of overhead speakers, kinda behind the drivers seat. Anyone done anything similar? I don't want a big speaker box hanging down but I wouldn't be opposed to extension collars.
 

6BTravelall

Farmall Cub
@MrKenmore Rockville Rockmat, 120 bux for 50 sq. Ft.. you won't be disappointed. My T'all took 100 sq. Ft but I did the hole cargo floor and inside rear panels, if you're just doing doors, tailgate, and rear compartments 50 sq. Ft should do you a solid.
 

Chris Cooper

High Wheeler
@MrKenmore Rockville Rockmat, 120 bux for 50 sq. Ft.. you won't be disappointed. My T'all took 100 sq. Ft but I did the hole cargo floor and inside rear panels, if you're just doing doors, tailgate, and rear compartments 50 sq. Ft should do you a solid.
Hopefully, it's cheaper than Dynamat; a person could go broke on a Travelall-sized amount of that. I was surprised how much it cost to apply Dynamat & Dynaliner to just a truck cab.
 

MrKenmore

Dreams of Cub Cadets
Mr. Kenmore, sorry to be playing catchup. Is this the weatherstrip for the long windows at the rear on each side, or is this part of the tailgate area?
This is window glass run channel in the top and rear of the front doors, all three sides of the rear doors and within the tailgate (N/A for you of course!).
 

MrKenmore

Dreams of Cub Cadets
Well, this is not the magic ball joint socket I thought it was. While the catalog page advertised 2 3/8", the actual size of the flat edge to flat edge is 1 13/16".
20210205_132911.jpg
 

Chris Cooper

High Wheeler
Rats-- that sucks.

Sheer indignation would motivate me to break out the plasma cutter, die grinder, and wire-feed to make my own socket at this point. I did the same thing one time with a Craftsman 1 1/4 socket, Dremel, and some cutoff wheels when couldn't find an axle nut socket for a Mercedes G-Wagen.

Maybe use that socket to trace & expand from onto a couple pieces of 1/4" steel plate, cut them out & laminate them together, weld on the web w/ socket hole from an axle nut socket, grind to fit?
 

stroker3

Lives in an IH Dealership
Have some old tools/sockets kicking around. Odd stuff my father picked up in cleanouts and such. Many made special for the machinery in the old mills around here. Some are fairly good size. Might have something close enough to be 'made' to work. Will take a look in the old basement the first chance I get.
 
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