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Colonel Mustard - 1975 IH Travelall 150

MrKenmore

Dreams of Cub Cadets
I got my New York State inspection this morning. $10 later and I am legit. They are supposed to check lights, horn, tires, steering and brakes. More often they just will do a light and horn check. Today, they didn't check anything!

Today's small project will be the door switches. Here are the replacements I ordered from Amazon 16 hours ago.
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I will need to go to the hardware store and get a length of 3/16" ID vinyl tubing to act as a sleeve as I think there is the risk of the switch grounding out within the body panel when the door is closed and the switch is depressed.
 

MrKenmore

Dreams of Cub Cadets
Well this kinda worked. On the driver's side, the hole was there and I cleaned up the threading for 5/16-18. I shielded the exposed metal as best I could with some clear nylon tubing. It worked. It did not ground out within the body which was good. No such luck on the passenger side. The angle of the hole aimed the door switch into the body within the cavity. It could not work / plunge correctly. Back to the drawing board. At least the driver's side door works! I'm looking at a bunch of stuff on Amazon. I'm worried the non retractable portion is too tall. The movable shaft (with the ribs) can be cut which is nice. I'd have to open up the hole to 3/8".
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Chris Cooper

High Wheeler
My truck apparently didn't come from the factory with any door-activated interior light switches, so I'm interested in this. I don't even know where they go.
 

MrKenmore

Dreams of Cub Cadets
For all those keeping track of tiny details, I used these plastic Heyco bushings from Waytek Wire for the door lock buttons (Heyco 2053, 1/2" Mounting Hole 3/8" Inside Diameter). The original ones were very tired looking. Granted these have some markings on them but they look very good!
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Now I am sure Jeff Campbell will chime in and say "Oh yea, I got a case of those NOS!!!"
 
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TheCrazyFarmer

High Wheeler
For all those keeping track of tiny details, I used these plastic Heyco bushings from Waytek Wire for the door lock buttons (Heyco 2053, 1/2" Mounting Hole 3/8" Inside Diameter). The original ones were very tired looking. Granted these have some markings on them but the look very good!
View attachment 182502
View attachment 182503
Now I am sure Jeff Campbell will chime in and say "Oh yea, I got a case of those NOS!!!"
Some guys have it all don't they?
 

jeff campbell

Moderator
Staff member
For all those keeping track of tiny details, I used these plastic Heyco bushings from Waytek Wire for the door lock buttons (Heyco 2053, 1/2" Mounting Hole 3/8" Inside Diameter). The original ones were very tired looking. Granted these have some markings on them but they look very good!
View attachment 182502
View attachment 182503
Now I am sure Jeff Campbell will chime in and say "Oh yea, I got a case of those NOS!!!"
Nope ! Sure dont.you got me there
 

MrKenmore

Dreams of Cub Cadets
Since my entire dash, dash pad and radio are back together, I finally received the correct length replacement HVAC temp control cable from Scout Connection. The stock was two cables but merged into one at the controller. The first replacement cable I got from Scout Connection was too short. This one is perfect. I believe this is some unique 74/75 item. I'm not sure if the one I received originally was for a 69-73. Scout Connection states they get these dimensions from the IH/Navistar blueprints. However, I do not know how reliable they are. My replacement front emergency brake cable was completely wrong and allegedly based on the original blueprints.
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MrKenmore

Dreams of Cub Cadets
I decided to try out the door switch found on GM vehicles for many years (1960 through the mid 80's). Standard Motor Products DS173T and Cole Hersee / Littlefuse 9266. Head size is the same (7/16"). Threaded shaft size is bigger (3/8 fine thread versus 5/16 coarse thread). Nice thing about the larger nut size is I can more easily squeeze the vinyl tube shield into the void). The GM version is shorter overall. It also has this shaft that is supposedly able to adjust in relation to the mounting nut (it could slide to the left in the pic below).
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Old technical drawing.
GM Door Switch 9266.jpg
 

MrKenmore

Dreams of Cub Cadets
It appears some previous owner had already swapped out the passenger side door switch to the GM style. I was able to screw the larger 3/8-24 thread by hand. I was able to shift the nut down the shaft by situating a 10mm deep socket on the nut and whack it with a hammer. Bottom one is the shifted nut on the collar. You should not install unadjusted and try to let the door closing self adjust the nut. I may adjust it a little more.
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MrKenmore

Dreams of Cub Cadets
So let me take a look at my IH LMC catalog.....oh wait! We don't have one LOL!!!!!

Here is my fix for the tailgate weatherstripping (outside portion only). Repops was trying to send me a workable prototype but the clips were way too big. They have not sent the revised piece with new clips that would fit the 3/16" slot so it was time to make my own fix (as usual). I drilled out each location with a 17/32" drill bit. I opened the access panel and removed the rubber bumps so the glass could go further down. I then secured the strip with Auveco Ford 19425 clips. Stem diameter is 7/32" so it grabbed the 3/16" slot fairly well. I do wish the Christmas Tree portion had some more "branches" as it appears some locations had trouble grabbing. I may look into alternatives in my Auveco catalog.
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I believe 19449 would have been a better choice as there are "branches" all the way down. I'll order a box of them in my next Auveco order. It also have the same 7/32" stem diameter which seemed to grab a 3/16" hole pretty good.
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