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Best way to unstick sticky valves

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250gibson

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Well, what is the best way.

I have heard of shooting penetrating oil into the intake manifold? If so, where is the best place to inject it? Through the venturis on the carb, or through one of my plugged manifold ports (I understand I will have to unplug them first)

Hopefully this will stop the ticking too.
 

Bill USN-1

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You may want to explain what your problem is.
A sticking valve usualy refers to a valve that is too tight in the guide and holds it open. This can cause an intermittent or constant miss.

A stuck or pumped up lifter is one that is fluid locked and will not give. The results are the same as a stuck valve.

A colapsed lifter is one that will not hold oil(or doesn't get oil pressure) and will barely open the valve. So either it won't get the air/fuel in or it can't get it out till the intake valve opens again. It will usually make a lot of ticking since it can't take up the slack at the push rod.


If you hold your hand over the exhaust and it sucks your fingers up against the end of the pipe then you probably have a stuck lifter, stuck valve or a burnt valve.

If you have lots of ticking and it runs ruff then it can be a colapsed lifter, low oil pressure or a worn out cam and lifters!!


Now if it is really a stuck valve, then the easy way to treat is a can of sea foam in the tank and another can slowly poured in the top of the carb with the engine at about 2000rpm. pour just fast enuff to keep it from dieing!

Don't do it at your own house!!!

You can also run some Marvel mystery oil in the engine.
It's a high detergent.
I have also used a qt of tranny fluid. :)
 
Last edited:

Thomas

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Bill usn-1 said:
...
Now if it is really a stuck valve, then the easy way to treat is a can of sea foam in the tank and another can slowly poured in the top of the carb with the engine at about 2000rpm. pour just fast enuff to keep it from dieing!

Don't do it at your own house!!!

You can also run some Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) in the engine...
{spewing coffee over monitor and keyboard}

---I didn't see that coming at all. I was enjoying reading you correctly described post and then bam, ya hit me with "Don't do it at your own house".

---Actually, what Bill meant is don't do it in your own neighborhood, unless you want to clear people out in a 1 mile radius. The stuff smokes real bad. Only one missed piece of info, besides pouring the Sea Foam in the oil and changing the oil 100-200 miles later (I don't like to leave it on seals for long). You actually want to run at 2000 RPMs or so and pour it in fast enough to slowly* choke the engine. Time it, a half a can (Is what I use), or a full can poured before the engine is choked and stalls. Let it sit for 4-5 minutes and then crank it till it starts. Now is the nasty part... the smoke that will come out of your exhaust now will be from solvent filled with carbon particles and everything else that was washed away. It's going to kill all plant life, animal life and insects in a 1 mile radius... if they don't get you first :p

---Great stuff, I have been using it for decades. Never have tried the other brand... I think made by CRC. Look to be identical cans and Sea Foam is almost $3 more... but I know Sea Foam works. Just change your oil about 200-300 miles later because it will* be contaminated. Another thing, I like to have my engine "warmed" up when I choke it with Sea Foam. Not only does it help to clean, but it's not so* hard to start after the cleaning. Will be pretty hard, but no more than 10 seconds, or so, of cranking.

---Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) is a top cylinder lubricant. Great for adding to the oil, but excellent* for adding to the tank. I add a little mixture of MMO, acetone and stabilizer to my fuel. Have been adding MMO and STP for over a decade. MMO is great stuff too. I use 2oz in my oil (SAE30/SE) and ½ bottle of STP Blue with each oil change. When and if, between oil changes, the pressure drops below spec, I add another couple shots of MMO and the other ½ bottle of STP to thicken it up. Always has carried me onto the next scheduled change, with pretty clean looking and feeling oil.
 

250gibson

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Bill usn-1 said:
You may want to explain what your problem is.
A sticking valve usualy refers to a valve that is too tight in the guide and holds it open. This can cause an intermittent or constant miss.

A stuck or pumped up lifter is one that is fluid locked and will not give. The results are the same as a stuck valve.

A colapsed lifter is one that will not hold oil(or doesn't get oil pressure) and will barely open the valve. So either it won't get the air/fuel in or it can't get it out till the intake valve opens again. It will usually make a lot of ticking since it can't take up the slack at the push rod.


If you hold your hand over the exhaust and it sucks your fingers up against the end of the pipe then you probably have a stuck lifter, stuck valve or a burnt valve.

If you have lots of ticking and it runs ruff then it can be a colapsed lifter, low oil pressure or a worn out cam and lifters!!


Now if it is really a stuck valve, then the easy way to treat is a can of sea foam in the tank and another can slowly poured in the top of the carb with the engine at about 2000rpm. pour just fast enuff to keep it from dieing!

Don't do it at your own house!!!

You can also run some Marvel mystery oil in the engine.
It's a high detergent.
I have also used a qt of tranny fluid. :)

Ticking isn't all that bad, and not really loud, seems to go away at higher rpms, although may just get drowned out. I am getting occasional missing.

I'll try the MMO in the oil, and see if the pipe sucks my fingers in (I have never heard of that, but it makes sense)
 

GaryB

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You usally can hear a stuck valve too as it makes a slight sucking noise at the exhaust. Depending on how bad it is, it can be loud or barley audible. I had a valve crack in my work truck and it sounded like one of those one lunged fart cough utility engines you see at the county fair :D

If it goes away at idle, it might be a sticky lifter. My old street stock (racecar) had one when I got it that would go away when hot. I got tired of hearing it and I ran some MMO and Sea Foam through it, worked like a charm.
 

250gibson

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Update, added MMO to the fuel tank, and it made a difference in my valve chatter. It is not nearly as loud, and happens less frequenty then before. Only after driving 15 miles or so. I'll have to wait until I run it all through the engine to see if it does any better. I need to wait until a little to add MMO to the crankcase, I am a quart heavy now, and not really due for another change for at least 1200-1500 miles
 

Thomas

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250gibson said:
... I need to wait until a little to add MMO to the crankcase, I am a quart heavy now, and not really due for another change for at least 1200-1500 miles
---A quart heavy is no big deal. I, along with many others, are running 1 quart over full, to help fight oil starvation at higher RPMs. Someone stated it was a TSB to add an extra quart, don't know, never saw it myself, but it hasn't hurt anything doing so. You don't need anything more than 4oz or so in the crank case, and I run about 2oz added to the gas, every time I fill the tank. NAPA has it in gallon cans. Wal*Mart used to, Kmart may still.
 

GaryB

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Bill Worden said:
It smells good, too! :D


If you want something that smells good, get a bottle of the upper end lube IMCA modified racers use. You can get grape, cherry, watermelon, even pina colada. I used to run root beer in my car. Not as effective with gas as with alky, but better than nothing. And it makes people smell your exhaust pipe :D
 
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