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74 Scout II lift

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Peter Albert

Farmall Cub
Joined
Jul 8, 2020
Messages
131
Points
28
Location
Colorado
I will definitely have to do this soon.
I think I have 3" in the front, with a 3/8" spacer. The rears are more like 4-5". I forget exactly. Pics below show how I determined what I'd need. Or at least verified that I made the right choices. And FYI:
  • Front suspension: Skyjacker 2.5 inch springs + 5" IHPA shackles.
  • Rear suspension: Skyjacker 2.5" springs + SJ "helper leafs" + stock 3" shackles
  • Tires: Cooper STT 32 x 11.5, 15"w
I drove it up on opposing ramps to get it as close to "stuffed" as I could.

View attachment 180700 View attachment 180701 View attachment 180699 View attachment 180702 View attachment 180703
 

Patrick Morris

Lives in an IH Dealership
Joined
Oct 18, 2001
Messages
7,474
Points
113
Location
San Diego, CA
If you can't fit shocks longer than the wheel travel break out your welder.
yep. Higher mount point on the frame is almost a must for the front shocks. The stock height doesn't allow for a very long shock to go in there. The rear could use a little more too.

ETA: I think I did it the smart way. First thing I did was determine that I needed 9-10" of shock travel at the front. Then I engineered new shock mounts on the frame that would allow for that travel, with the shock eye being at the mid-point of the travel.
 
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Patrick Morris

Lives in an IH Dealership
Joined
Oct 18, 2001
Messages
7,474
Points
113
Location
San Diego, CA
I will definitely have to do this soon.
I forgot to show you and Perdido what I did had to do with the inner wheel wells at the back. Good news is, no outer sheet metal mod was needed. At least not with my size tires and my wheel backspacing.

Left pic is "before". You can see where the factory sheet metal had been literally torn UP by the tire over the years. Made a horrible burping sound every time. Much of the damage was done with 31s and stock suspension, but it continued occasionally with 31s even after the lift. BTW, you can see where I started planning my cut with a Sharpy.

Middle pic shows the in-progress. I cut away some metal and pounded back that thicker vertical piece away from the wheel well.

Right pic, it's all done. WAY less rubbing for sure. And when it does rub, the tire doesn't catch on anything so it just rubs smoothly so I don't hear it. If it wasn't for a few small tire marks back there I find occasionally, I would not know there was any contact. Also what helps in the back are the lower bumpstops of course.

1-Left-side_before.jpg 2-Left-side_after.jpg 2-Left-side_all_done.jpg
 

Ron A

High Wheeler
Joined
Jan 11, 2003
Messages
1,723
Points
113
Location
State of Jefferson
I set my shocks and springs with the CPT kit with 4" poly bump stops that I don't need limit straps. The stock springs don't have enough flex.
Those National springs I just stuffed under the front end do. Need longer shocks and straps. Just one little change, and more work.
 

Perdido

Binder Driver
Joined
Jan 9, 2019
Messages
932
Points
93
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
I forgot to show you and Perdido what I did had to do with the inner wheel wells at the back. Good news is, no outer sheet metal mod was needed. At least not with my size tires and my wheel backspacing.

Left pic is "before". You can see where the factory sheet metal had been literally torn UP by the tire over the years. Made a horrible burping sound every time. Much of the damage was done with 31s and stock suspension, but it continued occasionally with 31s even after the lift. BTW, you can see where I started planning my cut with a Sharpy.

Middle pic shows the in-progress. I cut away some metal and pounded back that thicker vertical piece away from the wheel well.

Right pic, it's all done. WAY less rubbing for sure. And when it does rub, the tire doesn't catch on anything so it just rubs smoothly so I don't hear it. If it wasn't for a few small tire marks back there I find occasionally, I would not know there was any contact. Also what helps in the back are the lower bumpstops of course.

View attachment 180710 View attachment 180711 View attachment 180712
Patrick,
That area of the fender was turned up on Johns Scout and I took a BFH to it, but might need to do more. Since the body is off I may give it a little massage.
Thanks, Perdido
 

Patrick Morris

Lives in an IH Dealership
Joined
Oct 18, 2001
Messages
7,474
Points
113
Location
San Diego, CA
I took a BFH to it
Same here. A 3# sledge. After cutting away the areas I didn't want anymore, Iit banged the edge in on the C channel that runs along the back of the wheel well. Folded it back about 30-45° from vertical. I might have used the hammer in conjunction with a vice grip to help pry it back while keeping it straight. I also pounded back that lower edge where it wraps around, you might be able to tell from the pic.

And then I used a combo of welds and autobody seam sealer to joint all the edges together.
 
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Darrel

Lives in an IH Dealership
Joined
Mar 14, 2002
Messages
5,860
Points
113
Location
Colorado
Those National springs I just stuffed under the front end do. Need longer shocks and straps. Just one little change, and more work.

I take it you already flexed it out and measured. How much travel are you getting?
 

Ron A

High Wheeler
Joined
Jan 11, 2003
Messages
1,723
Points
113
Location
State of Jefferson
I take it you already flexed it out and measured. How much travel are you getting?
Did not take any measurements, other than letting it droop and ramps on the corners. Right now the front shocks (which are for a 4" lift) are limiting articulation, and at full droop the u-joint will bind. That, with 2 degree shims and stock shackles. At full stuff the military wraps are close to contacting the winch bumper. The Scout they were built for has limiting straps so I guess I should not be surprised. They do ride good and control at HWY speed is excellent.
 
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