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'74 scout II floor replacement and more!

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Jeff W

Farmall Cub
Joined
Nov 7, 2019
Messages
223
Points
43
I know...same ol boring pictures different color...haha! I sprayed the Rustoleum on the fillers and it looked great but when I went to clean it up for plug welding it ground off super easy and also failed a simple scratch test. So, rustbullet for the win...Rustbullet is kinda creates a hard shell that seemed to adhere pretty good. Probably much like POR15 but it claims it doesn't need the rust/prep to bond. I ended up plug welding (screw holes) the fillers on because although they bonded pretty good there were a couple air gaps that allowed a some wiggle that made me nervous for the whole piece.


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Lars-S

Binder Driver
Joined
Jun 11, 2020
Messages
891
Points
93
I ended up plug welding (screw holes) the fillers on because although they bonded pretty good there were a couple air gaps that allowed a some wiggle that made me nervous for the whole piece.
Think that was good to do.. There is a lot of weight there and will be a lot of movement.. When researching bonding panels to vehicles they still showed some tacks/spot welds here and there unless say an inner brace for a door skin..
 

Jeff W

Farmall Cub
Joined
Nov 7, 2019
Messages
223
Points
43
So bum deal...A while back I had my brand new quarter panels off leaning up against a tool bench with the garage doors open. Wind blows directly into my garage most days and unfortunately my Passenger fender blew over and got misshaped. At least thats what I think happened, because when I welded on the corner cap I had to flex it a bit and caused a slight wave with oil canning. Long story short I think I have got a handle on heat shrinking and hammer/dolly work...after chasing oil canning around about a 16in square surface for a couple days. The panel went from slightly warped to looking like a ruffles potato chip back to this. It took a lot of time and patience with multiple defusing breaks in between. I entertained cutting and rewelding like I did on the inners, but glad I didn't. It looks smoother in the picture but I think it's good enough for thin body filler.

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Moral of the story is don't let your new body panels blow over!

Now a question:

What do you guys use for filler?...It wont need much. Is regular bondo fine or should I put on some kind of fiber infused then bondo?

Confession: I did skim on some nothing fancy bondo already, but I will remove it if there is a better product.
 

Lars-S

Binder Driver
Joined
Jun 11, 2020
Messages
891
Points
93
What do you guys use for filler?...It wont need much. Is regular bondo fine or should I put on some kind of fiber infused then bondo?
Skim is best and if one can get away with just using one of the filling primers even better.. If its deep enough to need fiber then take some more "defusing breaks" while working to get it better.. Doing a job that requires 'no' filler is almost impossible given our situations and like with the wind .. you will get it perfect and painted and some nimrod will bang a shopping cart into it 1st time its parked.. That's part of why I stop worrying about it being 'perfect' as long as its safe and presentable.. Most of my cars looked so perfect when I didn't get around to painting over the primer LOL LOL ..
 
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Jeff W

Farmall Cub
Joined
Nov 7, 2019
Messages
223
Points
43
Go these little tidbits detached (from donor scout) and cleaned up for replication. I think I will keep these as templates for future fabrication...I'll see if I can take some measurements and post as well for anyone looking to make these.

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Lars-S

Binder Driver
Joined
Jun 11, 2020
Messages
891
Points
93
Go these little tidbits detached (from donor scout) and cleaned up for replication. I think I will keep these as templates for future fabrication...I'll see if I can take some measurements and post as well for anyone looking to make these
Thanks more info , examples is always good.. If can make a cloth or paper one piece template that lays down flat with up/down bend marks the top two probably can be made no worries. .. thinking the bottom ones due to the curve need some kind of shrinking or make all but the back flange then weld it to it?
 

Jeff W

Farmall Cub
Joined
Nov 7, 2019
Messages
223
Points
43
Thanks more info , examples is always good.. If can make a cloth or paper one piece template that lays down flat with up/down bend marks the top two probably can be made no worries. .. thinking the bottom ones due to the curve need some kind of shrinking or make all but the back flange then weld it to it?
The separate flange welded to it will be the plan on the curved piece. The cloth idea sounds interesting...never thought of that, should work good. Have to make sure not to borrow cloth from my stretchy pants (Nacho Libre)
 

Jeff W

Farmall Cub
Joined
Nov 7, 2019
Messages
223
Points
43
$100 doesn't seem too bad for making flanges instead of welding everything together. Not many reviews but truth be told they're probably all made in the same factory

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Lars-S

Binder Driver
Joined
Jun 11, 2020
Messages
891
Points
93
$100 doesn't seem too bad for making flanges instead of welding everything together. Not many reviews but truth be told they're probably all made in the same factory
The vendor is an umbrella company they don't actually design and/or manufacture the stuff from what I found when I researched them.. They are kind of like an online only HF. Getting stuff fixed or refunds could be risky on some stuff but like with others if we don't plunk down an insane amount for a knock-off 25th century wonder device I think .. well like you said probably the same factory..

Two things .. this is for a shrinker and stretcher which is a good deal .. you will use both no doubt and if it only lasts for a couple jobs think its worth the gamble
Second .. in the end I ended up buying a new MIG welder from them (which I have yet to use duh)

On a side note.. I finally got to see if the hype about TIG welds was true... on the piece that got messed up and I'm rewelding I 'hammered' the existing welds first .. WOW they do seem a lot softer than MIG.. its a little hard to tell though as I am using both types filler rod .. Mig .035 and TIG 1/16" The back side almost looks like perfectly flat nothing to grind down.. the front has some big bumps but that is because I had to fix the holes that using the Nitrogen gas caused..
 

Jeff W

Farmall Cub
Joined
Nov 7, 2019
Messages
223
Points
43
The vendor is an umbrella company they don't actually design and/or manufacture the stuff from what I found when I researched them.. They are kind of like an online only HF. Getting stuff fixed or refunds could be risky on some stuff but like with others if we don't plunk down an insane amount for a knock-off 25th century wonder device I think .. well like you said probably the same factory..

Two things .. this is for a shrinker and stretcher which is a good deal .. you will use both no doubt and if it only lasts for a couple jobs think its worth the gamble
Second .. in the end I ended up buying a new MIG welder from them (which I have yet to use duh)

On a side note.. I finally got to see if the hype about TIG welds was true... on the piece that got messed up and I'm rewelding I 'hammered' the existing welds first .. WOW they do seem a lot softer than MIG.. its a little hard to tell though as I am using both types filler rod .. Mig .035 and TIG 1/16" The back side almost looks like perfectly flat nothing to grind down.. the front has some big bumps but that is because I had to fix the holes that using the Nitrogen gas caused..
Ya, I'm not looking for a forever tool...but if it lasts that'll be a bonus. I figure if I can make 2-3 parts with it it'll pay for itself. I do have a socket set I bought from HF probably 20 years ago that still has all its parts intact except one of the case latches broke (my fault). HF type stuff is definitely hit or miss.

Funny story: My little brother works in the food processing industry and told me a story one time about a food packaging plant that when the time came to package a "different", less expensive brand of food, they literally just turned off the conveyor belts switched the packaging/labels and fired back up with the "generic" brand 😂

I haven't done much TIG yet but have experienced the blow through with but welds (even with the right gas)...had to go back to the trusty fool proof MIG for the most of the Scout thus far. The malleability of the TIG weld is very attractive though.
 

Lars-S

Binder Driver
Joined
Jun 11, 2020
Messages
891
Points
93
The malleability of the TIG weld is very attractive though.
Plus the welds themselves are much lower. A pro can make them same height unless one is looking for build up (multi-passes).
According to one 'expert' they are softer mostly due to less heat which I guess is true but like I mentioned the wire/rod itself isn't exactly the same with MIG using ER70-S6 and TIG using ER70-S2 .. according to specs the alloys contents aren't exactly the same so maybe that helps in keeping the TIG welds softer if you only use the S2 version of ER70 wire.. Looking forward to working on other side that didn't get nailed with Nitrogen and see if I can't butt weld it nicely (I know perfectly isn't an option yet LOL LOL)
 

Jeff W

Farmall Cub
Joined
Nov 7, 2019
Messages
223
Points
43
Got the driver side in yesterday...As simple as these trucks are it kinda surprises me how they made all the stock parts fit together. I'm not sure what is off, maybe my rocker top surface angel...IDK but had to grind these parts out a fair bit to get them to fit right. My bends being off ever so slightly likely contributed as well. Overall, I think the fit pretty good. Still have to make the flange to fit on the wheel facing plate but should be pretty easy.

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Second time around is always easier...I think they'll fit a little better

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Jeff W

Farmall Cub
Joined
Nov 7, 2019
Messages
223
Points
43
Got this little do-hicky in the mail yesterday and put a mount on it to try it out....I used a super grungy piece of 18g and it did quite well despite the dirt and undercoating.
The casing around the teeth could fit better but for $100....eh, I can deal with that. On to flangulating!

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Lars-S

Binder Driver
Joined
Jun 11, 2020
Messages
891
Points
93
Super.. looks like your decision to get it has already proven itself as the right choice..The price certainly was right and it works . Will save time, money, and effort on future pieces/projects.. Congrats.
 

Jeff W

Farmall Cub
Joined
Nov 7, 2019
Messages
223
Points
43
Flanges made and installed...fit pretty good I think. Cut my driver rocker a little short

Are you guys a fan of the garden hose hole drilled into the inside panel for flushing out debris? I'm debating it

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Lars-S

Binder Driver
Joined
Jun 11, 2020
Messages
891
Points
93
I went back a few pages and didn't see it mentioned.. I'm lazy so I'll ask .. what gauge is the metal its hard to tell in photos.. the ad for the stretcher says up to 18ga but looks like most of your stuff is closer to 14/16... The 16 ga I got the other day is rough enough to bend so curious if your doing gorilla bending or its the photos 😂
 
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