BinderPlanet.com

Welcome to BinderPlanet.com the World's Premier IH Website.

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

'74 scout II floor replacement and more!

Friends of BinderPlanet Facebook Group

Jeff W

Farmall Cub
Joined
Nov 7, 2019
Messages
223
Points
43
Picked up this rusty scout a couple months ago and have been busy excising cancer. Lots of grinding wheels and sweeping the garage later I am finally replacing steel. Here are a few pics of the progress. I'll try to keep the thread regularly updated. Thanks for watching
download.png
DSscout.JPG
download.png
DSscout.JPG
PSscout.JPG
59589533963__773F5265-6312-47B0-BBD4-61BBB8CBB954.jpg
59702731907__06718427-DE57-4670-AD9A-315B8A680BA5.jpg
59798703370__038116A4-0A81-404C-B73A-71E318AB12A4.jpg
59675970141__65B69A66-A170-4223-9CF5-2351C5A123D4.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 59839086530__27DB25EB-F534-49DA-90B6-07999EE70A22.jpg
    59839086530__27DB25EB-F534-49DA-90B6-07999EE70A22.jpg
    2.5 MB · Views: 210
  • 59856895352__6F05EF94-2B1B-497B-988A-82E209100D81.jpg
    59856895352__6F05EF94-2B1B-497B-988A-82E209100D81.jpg
    2 MB · Views: 202
  • 59857505647__C566F63A-38F4-44D7-8354-5F7132F43930.jpg
    59857505647__C566F63A-38F4-44D7-8354-5F7132F43930.jpg
    2.2 MB · Views: 201
  • 59917985213__48849901-3564-4A77-A658-0DACEFDA9987.jpg
    59917985213__48849901-3564-4A77-A658-0DACEFDA9987.jpg
    2.1 MB · Views: 202
  • 59917983467__218342AE-4773-4CA6-B936-D9B86423025C.jpg
    59917983467__218342AE-4773-4CA6-B936-D9B86423025C.jpg
    2.3 MB · Views: 204

Jeff W

Farmall Cub
Joined
Nov 7, 2019
Messages
223
Points
43
Started this thing last night...:wacko:...Too cheap to buy a new one, haha
 

Attachments

  • 59926162356__102C56EA-7633-41C4-8805-0FFDAF4DF143.jpg
    59926162356__102C56EA-7633-41C4-8805-0FFDAF4DF143.jpg
    296.6 KB · Views: 223
  • 59926164529__22519F1C-C5F3-49A1-A903-EA79A064D1F9.jpg
    59926164529__22519F1C-C5F3-49A1-A903-EA79A064D1F9.jpg
    331.2 KB · Views: 216
  • 59926161219__1A21B9A2-B4C5-4E2D-8CEF-E62FBB74F898 copy.jpg
    59926161219__1A21B9A2-B4C5-4E2D-8CEF-E62FBB74F898 copy.jpg
    342.5 KB · Views: 222

Jeff W

Farmall Cub
Joined
Nov 7, 2019
Messages
223
Points
43
Looking good!
Hey Justutt67, I am looking at your build and did 1X3 rect tube for the front body mount. Do you have pics of how you lined up the tubing you used? Im thinking of lining up the top for the floor then adding contour for the frame mount to lay flat.
 

Kohler

Farmall Cub
Joined
Sep 21, 2018
Messages
371
Points
93
Location
Fredericton, NB
Check out Belltown Build thread, I think I recall him using tubing in place of the wedge mount...
 

Jeff W

Farmall Cub
Joined
Nov 7, 2019
Messages
223
Points
43
Check out Belltown Build thread, I think I recall him using tubing in place of the wedge mount...

Thanks...I am following that one too. Not great pics of that particular part though...I DMd him
 

Jeff W

Farmall Cub
Joined
Nov 7, 2019
Messages
223
Points
43
I have asked a couple of you for advice and am grateful for your replies...here are some pics of what I am dealing with. Some more experienced input would be awesome!

Here's the front mount tacked in
front mountpass.JPG


This is my plan...maybe...(1x3x1/8 rect tube) cut out the red lines, pry them out parallel to the frame mount and fill in with weld then drill out the top, weld in a sleeve for recessed bolt and gussets at the ends...Thoughts?...not necessary effort?
front mountpass2.JPG

Here is my main dilemma....putting the doors back on to check for alignment. The passenger side door adjustments seem easy enough with all the gaps being very close with little effort. However, the drivers side is a different story. I've measured the door frame multiple times and it seems square. The door itself is off by about an 1/8" from front to back hight-wise. The problem is when no matter how I adjust it the bottom of the door nearly hits the rocker and the top/rear of the door sits right on the bottom lip of the top at the back of the door frame...no room for adjustment.
Further details:
The rocker is perfectly level with the trans tunnel
A and B pillars are perpendicular to the rocker and equidistant at top and bottom of door opening.

Am I missing something?...this seems to be my biggest hold up currently!
Passenger rocker/door gap
door:rockerpass.JPG


Driver rocker/door gap
door:rockerdriv.JPG
 

Justutt67

Farmall Cub
Joined
Feb 16, 2013
Messages
342
Points
43
Location
Broomfield, CO
Hi Jeff, It looks like you did the 1X3 the same way I did. I didn’t cut any reliefs in mine though. Not sure why your LT door is doing that though. The only thing I can see that I did differently is I fit my door gaps and welded in a door opening brace to the pinch weld prior to cutting out any metal. I mounted the front fender to the Apillar and got the door to match the fender then put a floor jack under the rocker at the A pillar and jacked it up till the back of the door was level with the quarter panel. Once it was level I welded in the door opening brace so nothing would move while I replaced rust. I hope that makes sense
 

Jrc55

Binder Driver
Joined
Aug 27, 2018
Messages
546
Points
93
If you can stand it, look through my build because I mated the front half of the scout to a brand new rear half basically with no reference. It starts on page 3.. Justtuut is correct about mounting the front fender and getting an eye for the entire sight line from rear of quarter, across the top of the door to top of fender, and bracing.

At this point it's time to take a break, step back, take some diagonal measurements, and weld in some bracing. start with " splitting the scout down the middle" measurement wise. Then work off of what you are seeing on the passenger side. also do diagonals to the TOP of the door hinge jambs
 

Jeff W

Farmall Cub
Joined
Nov 7, 2019
Messages
223
Points
43
Hi Jeff, It looks like you did the 1X3 the same way I did. I didn’t cut any reliefs in mine though. Not sure why your LT door is doing that though. The only thing I can see that I did differently is I fit my door gaps and welded in a door opening brace to the pinch weld prior to cutting out any metal. I mounted the front fender to the Apillar and got the door to match the fender then put a floor jack under the rocker at the A pillar and jacked it up till the back of the door was level with the quarter panel. Once it was level I welded in the door opening brace so nothing would move while I replaced rust. I hope that makes sense

Thanks for the info...Yes, it makes total sense...most guys will do that unless they're like me and got a little excited about tearing out rust before thinking of it...hahaha! I have figured out that measurements are for reference only on scouts since everything is so far off from side to side! The driver side door didnt shut well when I bought it, but i figured it was the crappy bondo job on the B pillar dogleg...maybe there is more to it??? Think Im just going to detatch the dog leg and lower the rear of the rocker a bit to open the gap top to bottom...idk, hope it works!
 

Jeff W

Farmall Cub
Joined
Nov 7, 2019
Messages
223
Points
43
If you can stand it, look through my build because I mated the front half of the scout to a brand new rear half basically with no reference. It starts on page 3.. Justtuut is correct about mounting the front fender and getting an eye for the entire sight line from rear of quarter, across the top of the door to top of fender, and bracing.

At this point it's time to take a break, step back, take some diagonal measurements, and weld in some bracing. start with " splitting the scout down the middle" measurement wise. Then work off of what you are seeing on the passenger side. also do diagonals to the TOP of the door hinge jambs
Thanks Jrc55...Ive looked over your thread many times! its amazing! I did bolt the top one before removing the floor hoping that would keep things mostly straight, at least side to side and front to back. The rockers and rear doglegs needed repairs so I think I'll start back at those points and remeasure everything. If all else fails, I'll start over, at least on the driver side
 

Jrc55

Binder Driver
Joined
Aug 27, 2018
Messages
546
Points
93
You'll get it man. I had probably the hardest time right where you are at. That was the hardest part of the build because everything later, builds on the foundation.
 

Dutch

Farmall Cub
Joined
Feb 19, 2019
Messages
51
Points
18
I'm no pro and a little behind you with mine. My front cab mounts gave up the ghost ~25 years ago and she had a serious sag in the middle. The doors closed, but I think the PO did some "tweaking" to get them there. I jacked up the front of the rocker to get everything close then adjusted the doors. On the driver's side, I adjusted it as high as I could, but it was still ~1/16" low, but parallel. I think something is going on with my hinges-- either they are bent or need new pins. Maybe you could completely remove the hinge bolts on the door side and see if that will get you there. Or, take out the hinges completely, grab a couple buddies, and see if it will sit in then. Just spitballing.
 

Jeff W

Farmall Cub
Joined
Nov 7, 2019
Messages
223
Points
43
I'm no pro and a little behind you with mine. My front cab mounts gave up the ghost ~25 years ago and she had a serious sag in the middle. The doors closed, but I think the PO did some "tweaking" to get them there. I jacked up the front of the rocker to get everything close then adjusted the doors. On the driver's side, I adjusted it as high as I could, but it was still ~1/16" low, but parallel. I think something is going on with my hinges-- either they are bent or need new pins. Maybe you could completely remove the hinge bolts on the door side and see if that will get you there. Or, take out the hinges completely, grab a couple buddies, and see if it will sit in then. Just spitballing.
Good suggestions...I havent had a lot of time recently to check things. I still have 2 good floor mounts so the rocker shouldnt be too far off. I think I'll get my front mounts in and use specers to set it all down evenly and see what happens first. I can see where jacking up the front could help, however with the top bolted on and the rear dogleg attatched it all kinda moves together. I dont have any clearance between the rocker and top of the door where it meets the top. Hinges are all good...I did repair the top driver before trying fitment. Hopefully Ill get back to it in a day or two.
 

Jeff W

Farmall Cub
Joined
Nov 7, 2019
Messages
223
Points
43
I'm still working on cab mounts and got the fronts fabricated and tacked in tonight.

Quick questions: In the pic below the measurements are as shown. IS THIS NORMAL?
I've heard they need to be parallel but I never disturbed the two middle mounts or A pillar, so there doesn't seem to be a way they could be so far off. Experienced Insight would be appreciated.


60143749648__ABA0E971-B92B-457A-B23B-8E782DD4AC0D copy.jpg


Here's what I'm doing for the front cab mounts...I recessed the bottom of the mounts to sit parallel with the frame mount.

fcabmounts.JPG

60143616217__8A2D0D8A-6B2F-4E47-9925-3FEC09591EFB copy.jpg

60143619380__47088C08-59D8-4D03-A966-9BEDFE869AEB copy.jpg


And this leads me to my final question....It seems like the angled part of the floor is meeting the mount hole too close...Have you guys that have used this mount style had similar issues? (SEE BELOW)

60144382782__A8603A39-BD17-448F-ACC9-51BBE48366B7 copy.jpg


Thanks for looking...and any advice!
 
Top