BinderPlanet.com

Welcome to BinderPlanet.com the World's Premier IH Website.

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

67 1100B Pickup

Binder TV

jb83ih

Farmall Cub
Joined
May 20, 2019
Messages
43
Points
18
Hello everyone. I’ve been lurking for awhile gathering information and researching and figured it was time I contribute. And why not a build thread!

I’ve working on this truck for just a little bit but to start from the beginning:

As from the title I have a 67 1100B pickup with a flatbed and 304. It last ran in the early 90’s. For a little background it was the local school maintenance vehicle (from new I believe) which the school outfitted with a service bed. When the school retired it my grandfather purchased it. It was the first 4x4 truck he ever owned and wanted it for feeding cows in the winter. The school kept the service bed so my grandfather put a flatbed on it. He used it for a few years until the automatic transmission went out.

He bought a MD truck with a worn out engine and swapped the T-98 transmission in. After the swap I learned from my father they experienced issues with the clutch linkage (it flexed the firewall when engaging the clutch). Before they got around to fixing it my grandfather acquired another pickup so the IH set and had been since.

my grandfather passed away in 2001 and the ranch trusted to my father and his siblings.

As I got older I was drawn to the old truck. While I had some other projects going on I started researching the truck and found this website. This is the truck in Jan 2018 setting at the ranch.
D49C1C15-F11E-4BD7-9F85-BB159C6A2F30.jpeg

In May of 2019 I was helping my dad at the ranch and happened to be returning home with an empty trailer. Why waste an opportunity so we pulled the truck out and it made its journey to its new home:
63B650D7-06CC-4872-9233-485802E08CD4.jpeg
 

jb83ih

Farmall Cub
Joined
May 20, 2019
Messages
43
Points
18
I knew I wanted to do an axle swap from the beginning and came across a 76 GMC 3/4 ton with a d44 out front and a ff 12 bolt rear, 4:11 gears, 400 small block, and sm465 transmission. At this time I start debating whether to just swap the axles or mount the IH cab on the GMC frame so I started by tearing everything down (Dec 2019)
544A68DF-9B0D-4B23-8764-34C0173E71E9.jpeg
71040478-C6B7-45F3-A628-1808E3B3AAE7.jpeg

2EBD76DA-8BE3-43A3-A306-F913350C653A.jpeg
 

jb83ih

Farmall Cub
Joined
May 20, 2019
Messages
43
Points
18
Side track post:
I took a hiatus from the truck as I replaced the wiring harness on my friend’s father-in-law’s 68 MGB that had been sitting for 15 years (fun car to drive but not much room to work on):
29ECF555-771B-413D-88FC-03D4893576FB.jpeg

I then also rebuilt my trailer I bought at an auction 15 years ago. It was home built, a little short, frame was light, fenders extremely heavy, and fenders too narrow to fit a full size vehicle on. I stretched it, doubled up the frame, new removable fenders and painted it:
B6C401AC-3648-4F1F-BD02-58E30179B6CA.jpeg

2DCABBBC-0DF6-4B0B-A4A7-401E402765F8.jpeg


As you might have seen in the previous post the GMC had some damage in the front right corner and frame. In Dec 2020 I finally made the time to take the frame to a couple of shops for quotes to straighten it as I didn’t have adequate means to attempt it myself. Long story short it wasn’t worth the expense so I cut it in half and made a pickup bed trailer out of it. I just realized I don’t have picture of it complete so here is a pic painting the underside of the bed (the original was rusted out so I found a replacement on Craigslist):
287D91DE-5D2E-4514-A892-631C1121051C.jpeg
 

jb83ih

Farmall Cub
Joined
May 20, 2019
Messages
43
Points
18
Back on track with the GMC frame bent I’m back to using the IH frame. I was debating a frame swap as the IH frame had been shortened, welded on, and holes burned through at points in its life. I decided that I could work around this. I also decided to completely tear down the frame for clean up and painting (including removal of all rivets) (Feb 2021):
08C7362C-6026-4715-9BAE-8D23C6D4073B.jpeg

67A54066-1E1F-4163-B140-673E11C93330.jpeg

I then wire wheeled the frame and sprayed it with Rustoleum primer and paint out of a cheap harbor freight gun.
54844DD0-C018-41D7-9FEB-913B9E150FD6.jpeg
 

jb83ih

Farmall Cub
Joined
May 20, 2019
Messages
43
Points
18
After letting the paint cure a few weeks I began reassembling the frame. I used grade 8 bolts and thread distorting lock nuts in place of the rivets. At some point in its life the front right spring hanger had come loose and both the mounting holes and spring bolt became worn. I contemplated rebuilding it myself but then saw CPT spring hanger kit for mounting GM springs. I wanted a mild lift and was short on time at the moment so I elected to buy the spring hangers, shackle hangers, and shackles. I then temporarily mounted the axles so I could roll the frame around for the time being.
3EF6842F-1ECD-4C42-A55F-F690DE2D0AD2.jpeg
 

mongocanfly

Lives in an IH Dealership
Joined
Nov 5, 2017
Messages
6,810
Points
113
Location
Alabama
Did you remove the paint where your crossmembers connect to the frame before you reassembled?..if not I'd keep a check on bolt tightness..when you drive it and the frame flexs, itll work thru the paint layers and you'll have loose bolts..
 
Last edited:

roguemustang

Farmall Cub
Joined
Nov 10, 2017
Messages
203
Points
43
Did you remove the paint where your crossmembers connect to the frame before you reassembled?..if not I'd keep a check on bolt tightness..when you drive it and the frame flexa, itll work the paint layers out thru distortion and you'll have loose bolts..
I might be overly cautious, but if the paint wasn't removed before reassembly, there might be a chance of poor grounding later down the road as well....I would think. I've never had the guts/time/money to tear something down to the frame, so I may not know what I'm talking about....
 

roguemustang

Farmall Cub
Joined
Nov 10, 2017
Messages
203
Points
43
BTW, @JB, welcome to the Binder community! I'm sure you've seen all the great help people manage to post without getting terribly snarky like many other forums. I'm personally glad you went with rebuilding rather than swapping in all that Brand X stuff. It's your truck, so whatever works for you, I'm just personally put off by cross brand swapping, even though I totally understand why some folks do it (daily driveability and parts availability primarily). Looks like your grandfathers truck is in good hands (and it looks like you've got a good place to start - I didn't see any rust in the fenders in the photos).
 

jb83ih

Farmall Cub
Joined
May 20, 2019
Messages
43
Points
18
mongocanfly -
Thanks for asking the question. I did not remove the paint at the connection points. One reason I took it all the way down was to ensure I both cleaned and got coverage in all the nooks and crannies (whether that thinking is flawed or not). I do plan on routinely checking the bolted connection points once I get it going again to keep things nice and tight while everything settles in (and as part of a long term maintenance program).

roguemustang -
Thanks for the welcome. It is appreciated and I greatly appreciate everyone else who takes the time to both post and respond on this forum. It is a great help to all in the community. That’s a reason why I wanted to start this thread. I’ve gotten many ideas and knowledge from others and perhaps someone can take something away from this one.

Regarding the potential grounding issue that is a good point and one I hadn’t considered. I believe I can work around it as long as I’m conscientious with my grounding connections/routing.

This is the first time I’ve torn something so far down to put back together but I look forward to the challenge.

I was seriously considering a frame and powertrain swap as I’m more familiar with GM stuff. I even went so far to post the engine, trans and tc on Craigslist. A local IH enthusiast who responded to the add talked me out of it and in hind site I’m glad he did. This truck (and binders in general) is unique and I plan to keep it that way within reason (axles excluded).
 

jb83ih

Farmall Cub
Joined
May 20, 2019
Messages
43
Points
18
After I got the frame reassembled I began working on the drive train. Pictures are a little lacking when I started this phase. I started with the transfer case. It seemed to shift well so I refrained from a full tear down and rebuild. I was a little concerned when I drained the oil as there was quite a bit of water in it. I inspected the gears the best I could and all appeared ok so I cleaned it up, painted it and mounted back in the frame. I can rebuild it later if warranted. I replaced the worn out rubber crossmember bushings with some leftover energy suspension leaf spring bushings and steel sleeves cut down from another project.
65DAD52F-5A7A-4879-981C-D6DBCA3FAFB6.jpeg
 

jb83ih

Farmall Cub
Joined
May 20, 2019
Messages
43
Points
18
Next was the t98 transmission. It also had a lot of water in it (condensation I suppose) and it did not fair as well. The shift rods were pretty rusty and a few teeth on the cluster gear were in dire straights warranting a replacement. I was lucky enough to source a NOS one on eBay. The reverse gear also had some pitting on the gear teeth but not as bad. I decided to run it. I purchased a rebuild kit from Novak and a top cover rebuild kit from a local transmission parts house. This was my first manual transmission rebuild that went fairly well (much easier than the GM 700r4 automatic I rebuilt a few years ago).

Shoutout to Gunfighter97 and his t98 rebuild thread on another forum. It was a great reference during this process. The t98 is currently reassembled awaiting paint.
E875BA19-3940-41B5-AFC3-A4EAED4C9736.jpeg

5EFEF5F9-6CD3-4F21-939F-C9C72A083B15.jpeg
 

jb83ih

Farmall Cub
Joined
May 20, 2019
Messages
43
Points
18
There was some damage to the T98 top cover around the pin that keeps the shift lever from spinning. I didn’t take a photo of it but the top above the pin had completely broken out. Someone tried to bandaid it using a key and large washer spanning the top to keep the key from popping out. There was still a lot of movement at the connection resulting in a sloppy shift. To repair it I built the top back up by brazing. I cleaned and smoothed up the inside where the lever assembly rides with a die grinder, re-drilled the hole for the pin, and also added a 2nd pin to the other side for additional support and slotted the lever assembly accordingly:
94A44F2C-BD99-4FA3-BD1F-A7E594932597.jpeg
 

jb83ih

Farmall Cub
Joined
May 20, 2019
Messages
43
Points
18
While I wait to paint the transmission, I turned my attention to the 304 engine. The truck odometer showed 67k +/- miles which I believe is accurate for its previous school maintenance vehicle service. It wouldn’t have taken a lot of long trips.

After a decent cleaning I pulled the valve covers to inspect the rocker assembly. I found a decent build up of oil sludge I contributed to a combination of non-detergent oil use and less than optimal oil maintenance.

I went thru the pre-oiling procedure since the engine had sat for so long to make sure everything was free before tearing into it further. My plan was to avoid a complete rebuild at this time if possible. Other than the sludge build up the engine appears to be in pretty good condition. I decided I would proceed with just a clean up, new gaskets and seals and try to run it. If it needs a rebuild down the road I’ll address it at that time.

Sorry but pictures were still lacking a bit at this time.
 

jb83ih

Farmall Cub
Joined
May 20, 2019
Messages
43
Points
18
Getting up to date, last weekend I started on the reassembly process after previously soaking and cleaning up parts.
1181689B-77D3-4F81-9B99-D060E1446B7A.jpeg
I replaced the block and head freeze plugs, replaced the rear main and front oil seals, and replaced the valve seals. I had purchased a cheap harbor freight valve spring compressor but didn’t look closely enough at the unit when I bought it. It only had a hook on one side to hook the spring. I went ahead and fab’d my own spring compressor real quick using a piece of strut channel I had laying around. It worked fairly well.
9C3E6038-CB35-4E16-A80B-04AA6FAA36F3.jpeg

I then went ahead and refilled with oil and pre-oiled it again with some sea foam in it to continue help breaking down remaining oil sludge.
B77196A1-C1AC-4791-A074-E936422DE8D8.jpeg
 

jb83ih

Farmall Cub
Joined
May 20, 2019
Messages
43
Points
18
Got some more work done over the holiday weekend. Finished cleaning up the engine and put some paint on it. I decided I would try hand painting the script on the valve covers. It’s a little rough up close but I think looks pretty good looking at it from a few feet away:
0BC0DB73-D027-4DEC-9102-16CC7D33FEFE.jpeg

While I wait delivery of a new clutch and engine mounts to continue assembly, I decided to pull out the heater box. There is rust around the cowl vents and I anticipated to find rust in the heater box as well. Driver’s side vent:
2BAC0540-C91D-4D61-B4DB-B73905061695.jpeg

Passenger’s side vent:
E246DC56-BB34-4BA7-B4AA-4C608D8D2D5D.jpeg

To my surprise the heater box was in great shape with just some surface rust:
10CF27AF-51CD-468A-8C31-154C087AE759.jpeg

The glovebox cardboard liner is also in great shape:
A895DC12-2F08-4DAB-AD99-2EA54017F015.jpeg
 

jb83ih

Farmall Cub
Joined
May 20, 2019
Messages
43
Points
18
We’ll between work and life I found a little time to work on the IH this past weekend. I’m now turning my attention to cab body work, starting with the cowl rust repair. Here are some shots from inside the cab of the rust:
888C814F-7486-405E-8794-064E86677D15.jpeg

690FCD7A-FB13-429A-81F4-A5B416FA47AF.jpeg


Since the cab is stripped and it’s easy to get to I decided to go ahead and remove the top of the cowl using a spot weld cutter:
F49348C5-A680-4194-8E7F-E36071FBCECE.jpeg

78797139-D76D-40EF-9CE8-86C5FD2B7733.jpeg
1882CB0D-D211-4F3A-8A98-2436471A3DAB.jpeg


And here it is after a little clean up:
0DE7CCCD-25F0-4A25-A1F8-9AD198A0F1E9.jpeg

C1E68715-4E8F-4A10-85FD-91BBF5F37F26.jpeg


Now I need to pick up some sheet metal, some gas for the welder, and find some time in order to start the repair.
 

jb83ih

Farmall Cub
Joined
May 20, 2019
Messages
43
Points
18
We’ll I finally found some time to work on the truck again, continuing with the cowl rust repair. I started by cutting out the vents:
3FA8DE74-67EF-4412-AF5C-D8E27993BE31.jpeg

CA6D914D-220B-46E4-9EBC-7D0734FB7FD7.jpeg


Since the tops of the vents had rusted off, I welded on an extension piece to both sides:
F04F8D6F-7099-470E-8369-887F9E450F21.jpeg

5E8FF31C-A884-4AB2-B669-DF7FFF800694.jpeg

3E89985E-F4B4-4DCD-A97E-389B9D27D9C1.jpeg


I then welded them back in place:
D0ECFD52-7F95-42A9-837E-DC8A95C28F71.jpeg


I was concerned around the vents may still trap water so I decided add some more metal to divert any water around the vents and also installed the “wings” to divert air into the vents:
578E71FC-497B-461C-8025-19EF79E250E7.jpeg

9A0D0214-B8B7-4990-8ABC-25E9DE0A50F2.jpeg

293384AC-8515-4AFC-B650-2A8D86034792.jpeg


I also increased the size of the cowl drain holes and began welding up some of the firewall holes I won’t be reusing.

I’ve got some cleanup to do on some of my welds and then paint, seal, and reinstall the cowl cover.
 
Binder TV
Friends of BinderPlanet Facebook Group
Top