2.5" Rough Country Springs

Do you need extended brake hoses with the 2.5" lift? What I see at IHPA, they have hoses for 3" or more.
I suspect from a safety perspective it would be prudent.
Any other resources for the extended hoses?
I did find some info on this thread:
http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/index.php?threads/extended-rear-brake-lines.145402/#post-1129004

Thanks!

 

Back-Country Binders (BCB) used to sell a nice set of braided steel extended hoses. It's what I have on my Scout (with roughly the same lift you're looking at). You might call them.

 

Thanks. Will do.

 

And for what it's worth, before the BCB hoses I was using a pair the longer standard hoses that I got from NAPA. It wasn't but a couple of years of use before I noticed a blister forming on one of them. It definitely developed some kind of internal leak. I figured at that point to upgrade to the braided ones.

I also remember that Skyjacker also offered a set of braided hoses for Scouts. Not sure who made them for SJ or if they're still offered though.

FWIW, I think I'm using a standard but longer hose in the rear. The "Ford E350" type. Might have bought it at NAPA. Been on their for 10-15 years and no issues.

 

Patrick,
Thanks. IHPA is having their Black Friday sale. So that is probably the best deal going.
I called this place in San Diego, but their guy was out this week:
https://westflex.com/custom-brake-lines-product.php

Appreciate all the insight.

Keith

 

Probably you're best bet. Sure nothing wrong with buying it from them.

Thanks for the tip on the hose place. FWIW, I know of another shop called The Hose Pros, in KM. On Convoy Ct.

 

I got the IHPA SS brake hoses in today. Placing them next to the front stock hoses they look long. Will that be an issue such as catching on anything? Guess I will need to play around with the routing.

 

As it turned out for me, no issues at all with my SS hose on the driver-side. It just forms kind of a sideways "S" ahead of the caliper and stays clear of everything at all times. Moves with the wheel as it goes up and down and side to side. The passenger side was a little different for whatever reason. That "S" placed the hose a little too close for to the bumpstop for my comfort. To avoid it ever getting pinched there while four-wheeling, I welded onto the bumpstop bracket a little arm that extends forward a couple of inches. Has an eye bolted to the end, like below. Holds the brake line out there pretty loosely in front of the bumpstop so the brake line can never come close to the bumpstop.

 

Patrick,
Thanks. I like your solution. It does make me think I should get the new bump stops first to make sure I am clear of them. I still have the original style up front.

I ordered a set of bump stops, but they were too big so I returned them: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004IARR9A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I see this is what you have:




Maybe I should just lower the original bump stops?

Weld an extension or find/make something like this:

https://blog.bds-suspension.com/?p=18465

 

I went with the red poly 4" bumps welded on a piece of channel that drops it down 1". Then mounted the bumps.

 

I went with the red poly 4" bumps welded on a piece of channel that drops it down 1". Then mounted the bumps.

That is a beefy setup for sure!

 

Those would be perfect for the rear. You'll need them if you do any four-wheeling.

It's way easier IMHO just to buy taller, better bump-stops than to try to fabricate dropping the little stock ones lower. And the bigger aftermarket ones have a larger footprint as well. Make them more forgiving of imperfect contact points.

BTW, that older post just shows the rear bump stops. Stops that thick are definitely needed. And even then, I had to do some surgery to the rear inner wheel wells to mitigate rubbing. (As you can see, brake lines on the rear axle are a non-issue so long as they don't run along the top of the tubes.

 

Since I have the Four Wheel Camper on the back any rock crawling is out of the question with this Scout as I do not want to tear up the camper. I added two leaf springs to the Rough Country spring packs on the rear as the springs did not support the heavier load on the back. I also installed the Energy Suspension 9.9104G bump stops.

https://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspe...ds=9.9104G&qid=1606674545&s=automotive&sr=1-1

For the front, given the selection of bump stops out there, I am wondering if I was better off with the Daystar's I just returned.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004IARR9A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

or doing something a bit different:

https://www.claytonoffroad.com/product/jeep-front-bump-stops-2007-2020-jk-jl-jt

Clayton states the bump stop dimensions are 3 x 3 1/4" which should work out nice and not take up a ton of real estate. They also state they can be trimmed and used in other applications. From the pictures I just cannot tell if the bolt head is recessed into the bump stop. I would assume it is. I may try to give Clayton a call tomorrow. It appears the footprint may work too, as Patrick noted. The small footprint bump stops may not land as well on target.

 

I may as well show you what I did at the front. Hopefully you can see the little arm coming off the front of the bump-stop bracket on the passenger side. It wasn't the best lighting conditions this morning I'm afraid. BTW, that black hose is a just breather tube for the front axle. Worked out well, running though that ring. Last pic shows the driver-side braded hose. It dressed out nicely there and needs no help.

You can also see there the bump-stops I'm using at the front. I guess I have them under a 1/4" bar of aluminum to drop them down a little further. I though these stops were plenty long enough, but now I'm considering replacing them with slightly longer ones. I recently discovered that my steering stabilizer has a little dent in it from hitting the sump's fwd drain plug! I had no idea that the front axle could/had come up that far. I don't even know when it happened. Must have been in the woops out by Ocotillo I guess. In the meantime I will try rotating the stabilizer down a little.

 

Patrick,
Thanks. The pics are very helpful. I think the 1/4 bar of aluminum was put there so the plate on the bump stop would clear the tab on the bump stop mount.

If you decide to get longer ones, would you want to sell those? I would not need anything longer.

 

Some specs on the Clayton bump stops attached. I think they may work well for what I need.

They don't take up as much real estate however they have a nice footprint.

 

Should work fine, only problem i for see is only one mounting point, a solid axle leaf spring will come up on an angle possibly pushing it sideways and snapping the bolt. As they are made for the inside of a coil spring I believe.

 

Good guess. Maybe. I did cut those tabs short, thinking it would be necessary for clearance. There's a little of that tab left. I guess I cut them more than I needed to. Or the aluminum bar stock was an afterthought. I did that maybe 3-4 years ago.

 

FWIW, those bump-stops I have on the front are Energy Suspension stops. Height is 2.5". The next size up from the ones I have, in that center-bolt style, is 4.5". I don't want that much stoppage. And to be honest, I don't like that the urethane block is pealing back from the steel plate. Might be caused by where and at what angle the axle hits them; not sure.

The most practical option for me would be to pull off those E.S. stops and mount these 3.5" Prothane stops, which are the same type as I'm using on the rear end. Looks like I could still use the center-bolt mounting. If necessary, I'd just cut off those tabs on the ends. Or weld on a steel plate to accommodate the outer bolts, if it'll fit and not interfere with the shocks:

https://www.prothanesuspensionparts.com/191309