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1978 Scout II New To Me Project

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MrKenmore

Lives in an IH Dealership
Joined
May 19, 2013
Messages
5,117
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113
Location
Long Island, NY
This bumper makes a great spot for the license plate! I never liked the plate on the tailgate. I used LED motorcycle fasteners to hold it in.
Tailgate.JPG

P1020812.JPG
 

TravelerMan79

Binder Driver
Joined
Apr 15, 2020
Messages
809
Points
63
Location
Ottawa, ON
I wondered the same as I’ve seen bumpers with and without plating on the vertical surface. My bumper has the plating there as @MrKenmore mentions and the plating is one piece and my bumper extends around the tailcaps. My Traveler is a 79.

5197011D-DA82-4800-ABCC-C08AD45E0234.jpeg
 
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MrKenmore

Lives in an IH Dealership
Joined
May 19, 2013
Messages
5,117
Points
113
Location
Long Island, NY
Yes. That's the same one. There is the earlier step bumper with square pattern (not "diamond" plate) that I don't care for as much.
 

J.J.

Lives in an IH Dealership
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Dec 14, 2003
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7,417
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Location
Castalian Springs, TN
Yes. That's the same one. There is the earlier step bumper with square pattern (not "diamond" plate) that I don't care for as much.

thats called a Barden bumper, they were a company in Springfield that had the unique square style that you speak of. The real business at Barden was fire escapes. My '74 100 and the pickups had the Barden style. We did a pop up event at the Stage a few years ago in Nashville, moved everything in and out of the back door (its a bar on Broadway in downtown), and it has four stories of Barden fire escape HAHAHA

JJ in TN
 

Lars-S

Binder Driver
Joined
Jun 11, 2020
Messages
891
Points
93
I like that look too.. I checked and not sure if mine were rusted or I was just going for custom look but it appears that I pop riveted aluminum diamond plate over the original stuff. Think I did that about 10-12 years ago.
 
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Gioscout2

Farmall Cub
Joined
Dec 10, 2019
Messages
383
Points
63
Location
Essex, On
One more thing knocked of my to do list for the Scout, "replace door hinge pins". I'll tell ya, three out of the four what a pain in the butt, had to drill all the pins out good thing for my drill press and they might as well have been welded in there. I had found an old Post here on the forum that helped me out, and I also drilled and tapped in some grease fittings. Glad I found the Post. I figured I better get that done before I try to hanging the doors.
Also started working on checking some panel fitting. I put the tub back on then followed up with the rest. Had a helping hand from my boy to get the doors and roof back on (that him in the driver side on a milk crate). Doors aren't fitting to bad and I'll have to live with the gaps and need to complete body work on the doors. I think I may have to re do some metal work on the rear quarters . In the beginning of the project I did not really have any measurements or much of guide on rebuilding the arches in the rear quarters because when the PO redid them they were out of wack so I just cut them out. Now that I am looking at the tub sitting back on the frame with the wheels on I can see some difference comparing side to side of the work I did. Live and learn I guess. But anyway, here are some pics of the where I am at with fitting. The plan is to get the the fit and finish better to where I can live with it and then take it all apart again.
hinge 1.jpg

hinge 2.jpg

hinges rebuilt.jpg

panel fit 1.jpg
panel fit 1.jpg

body panel fit.jpg
 

Lars-S

Binder Driver
Joined
Jun 11, 2020
Messages
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I'll tell ya, three out of the four what a pain in the butt, had to drill all the pins out good thing for my drill press and they might as well have been welded in there.
Did you try soaking this for several days in anything? Imagine they are frozen in by more than just rust but thought I'd ask. When I soaked bolts stuck in bushing in the OJ mix they slid out after a week hence my asking. I may have to do my pins but that will not be this summer.. I need to drive the Scout again if only for a few months before digging into that kind of work.
 

Gioscout2

Farmall Cub
Joined
Dec 10, 2019
Messages
383
Points
63
Location
Essex, On
Did you try soaking this for several days in anything? Imagine they are frozen in by more than just rust but thought I'd ask. When I soaked bolts stuck in bushing in the OJ mix they slid out after a week hence my asking. I may have to do my pins but that will not be this summer.. I need to drive the Scout again if only for a few months before digging into that kind of work.
I'm sure it can't hurt to try and soak for a day or so, but I wanted to get them done so I could hang the doors as my son was over for the weekend and I had some help.
 

Gioscout2

Farmall Cub
Joined
Dec 10, 2019
Messages
383
Points
63
Location
Essex, On
So I decided to do this and make it a bit easier to secure my Hard top when I get to the point of being able to remove for good weather, not that I am anyway near that yet. The plan is to keep the interior panels and ceiling panel all in place when removing the top ( I know the ceiling panel doesn't get removed anyway). The latches are supposedly rated for 300 lbs each ( X5) on each side , so I guess I have 1500 lbs of hold down force per side. Currently the side panels are a factory cream colour but that is going to change, so the cut outs I made wont be so noticeable. What I also did was weld in guide pins in each of the for corners where the 5/16" bolts would have gone in to help for alignment on reinstall. I haven't decided on what to do to secure the front of the top to the windshield frame, go with the stock bolt set up or or find some kind of latch system actually made for convertible hard tops.
I can't take credit for this idea of using latches as I found it here on the forum.

hardtop latch.jpg

hardtop latch pin.jpg

hardtop latch complete.jpg
 

Lars-S

Binder Driver
Joined
Jun 11, 2020
Messages
891
Points
93
Nice way to do it.. Kind of reminds me of how front of my removable hard top was fastened to front windshield but it was a small fiberglass targa top.. Let us know what you figure out for the front section on yours with lots of pics ..
 

Greg Cejka

Farmall Cub
Joined
Oct 2, 2017
Messages
172
Points
43
So I decided to do this and make it a bit easier to secure my Hard top when I get to the point of being able to remove for good weather, not that I am anyway near that yet. The plan is to keep the interior panels and ceiling panel all in place when removing the top ( I know the ceiling panel doesn't get removed anyway). The latches are supposedly rated for 300 lbs each ( X5) on each side , so I guess I have 1500 lbs of hold down force per side. Currently the side panels are a factory cream colour but that is going to change, so the cut outs I made wont be so noticeable. What I also did was weld in guide pins in each of the for corners where the 5/16" bolts would have gone in to help for alignment on reinstall. I haven't decided on what to do to secure the front of the top to the windshield frame, go with the stock bolt set up or or find some kind of latch system actually made for convertible hard tops.
I can't take credit for this idea of using latches as I found it here on the forum.

View attachment 208298
View attachment 208299
View attachment 208300
You might have gotten the idea from my build, I'm glad someone else thought it was good. I cut the bottom of my fiberglass inner panels up at the bottom of the curved part about where your latch hinges. Because I dont have carpet or anything in there I didnt need that extra hanging down and then where I lift it I dont have to worry about hitting the fiberglass.
 
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