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1973 Travelall 1010 - Family Cruiser Build.

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MrKenmore

Dreams of Cub Cadets
Joined
May 19, 2013
Messages
4,943
Points
113
Location
Long Island, NY
Don't be too hard on yourself java. It's your first time doing it. For me there is something satisfactory about doing it yourself where if you make a mistake, it's your mistake. If it was someone else's mistake (and they were a pro) you'd be twisted. I left the actual spraying of Colonel Mustard to the guys at my FIL's shop. They made a couple mistakes which we had to fix. No one is perfect!
 

java230

Farmall Cub
Joined
Jul 16, 2019
Messages
365
Points
28
Don't be too hard on yourself java. It's your first time doing it. For me there is something satisfactory about doing it yourself where if you make a mistake, it's your mistake. If it was someone else's mistake (and they were a pro) you'd be twisted. I left the actual spraying of Colonel Mustard to the guys at my FIL's shop. They made a couple mistakes which we had to fix. No one is perfect!
Yeah very true. And honestly I am ok without perfection. It's been a ton of learning, and if I want it perfect I can go back and fix it. For the time being it's just getting epoxy and maybe a clear

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 

java230

Farmall Cub
Joined
Jul 16, 2019
Messages
365
Points
28
Heater and drywall ladder. This is clutch for the roof! I can reach the middle!

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Now on the roof, its floppy. I am having a hard time putting pressure on the block, the edges of the ribs (which are actually indents) are hitting metal fast, and the middle section still needs a lot of help. Ideas? I did notice the inside ribs are not glued to the skin anymore.... I was thinking of grabbing some 3M panel bond, I need to reattach a door window track also. I am thinking maybe just DA the roof as it takes a bit les pressure than blocking.

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And for giggles I measured.... Roof is 10'6" x 5'4"
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mongocanfly

Y-Block King
Joined
Nov 5, 2017
Messages
3,489
Points
113
Location
Alabama
on those rib indent burnthrus...run masking tape down the rib edges out on the flat part of the roof, covering the indents..then sand up to the tape, then pull the tape off and carefully hand sand those areas...whats probably happening is when they stamped the roof, the metal around the ribs is distorted and raised up , then when you sand your hitting the high spot...
and a roof that big, and wow that's big, it really does need some kind of support..
 

java230

Farmall Cub
Joined
Jul 16, 2019
Messages
365
Points
28
on those rib indent burnthrus...run masking tape down the rib edges out on the flat part of the roof, covering the indents..then sand up to the tape, then pull the tape off and carefully hand sand those areas...whats probably happening is when they stamped the roof, the metal around the ribs is distorted and raised up , then when you sand your hitting the high spot...
and a roof that big, and wow that's big, it really does need some kind of support..
Im using epoxy, so not too worried about the blow thru, more I cant get the "flats" between the ribs sanded well since they are so floppy. Apply any pressure and the just kinda oil can a bit. I am thinking maybe just DA those areas.
 

6BTravelall

Farmall Cub
Joined
Aug 21, 2019
Messages
354
Points
43
Screw those runner strips back on there for stability, my interior roof bracing was pretty well gapped from the roof, you could spray primer on the interior first and glue up your insulation then do what I had to do.. use a jack and 2x4 to push all of the bracing back upto the roof.

Edit: if you are planning to use insulation up there i still had to use a pry bar between the bracing arches and roof to slide the insulation in so probably best to take care of that first. Heres what I used https://www.homedepot.com/p/UltraTo...er-with-Recycled-Cotton-30000-11424/100661257
 

java230

Farmall Cub
Joined
Jul 16, 2019
Messages
365
Points
28
Screw those runner strips back on there for stability, my interior roof bracing was pretty well gapped from the roof, you could spray primer on the interior first and glue up your insulation then do what I had to do.. use a jack and 2x4 to push all of the bracing back upto the roof.

Edit: if you are planning to use insulation up there i still had to use a pry bar between the bracing arches and roof to slide the insulation in so probably best to take care of that first. Heres what I used https://www.homedepot.com/p/UltraTo...er-with-Recycled-Cotton-30000-11424/100661257
The roof insulation doesn't go between the ribs and skin does it?

Mine doesn't have any runner strips?

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 

6BTravelall

Farmall Cub
Joined
Aug 21, 2019
Messages
354
Points
43
The roof insulation doesn't go between the ribs and skin does it?

Mine doesn't have any runner strips?

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Mine was pretty gapped out and bent so I decided to wait til after I put the insulation up there before I bent it back into place. It sounds like yours is probably similar if its letting the roof sag but yeah man I'd squeeze insulation in there best you can and use a jack and 2x4 to force the ribs back up. I can get you some photos if you want.

I haven't put my runners back on yet and my roof is solid.. even after 4 liters on top and underside of the roof it still had a slight belly in until after I forced the ribs back up.
 

RinTX

Y-Block King
Joined
Jan 19, 2013
Messages
3,182
Points
113
Location
Ft Worth, TX
Interior ribs to roof - I recommend bonding with something that has some flex. A seam seal or polyurethane caulk. What was in mine from the factory dried out and was no longer holding the roof to the ribs.
88421137-646A-4286-838B-3FC7CA50978C.jpeg

Two of the ribs in this photo. I have not yet applied anything up there. I think I have some 3M seam seal that is supposed to stay flexible. I will probably use that.
 

java230

Farmall Cub
Joined
Jul 16, 2019
Messages
365
Points
28
Interior ribs to roof - I recommend bonding with something that has some flex. A seam seal or polyurethane caulk. What was in mine from the factory dried out and was no longer holding the roof to the ribs.
View attachment 185373
Two of the ribs in this photo. I have not yet applied anything up there. I think I have some 3M seam seal that is supposed to stay flexible. I will probably use that.
That is exactly how mine are. Same thing, sealant/glue has dried and is very hard now.
 

java230

Farmall Cub
Joined
Jul 16, 2019
Messages
365
Points
28
Didn't have much time yesterday, so I decided to figure out the compressor issue.

Gonna guess that is the issue.... Note, this thing is as old as I am and has painted numerous cars in its life. A little maintenance isn't bad at all.

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I had a roll of 8 gauge stranded. Used crimp on ends everywhere. Much more better.

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Then I used some polyurethane caulk to re-glue the roof ribs.

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java230

Farmall Cub
Joined
Jul 16, 2019
Messages
365
Points
28
Well it looks the same.... But roof is done 95% needs a wipe down and see if I missed anything. Its a little hard to tell when its dusty. Almost done with the whole pass side now.

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java230

Farmall Cub
Joined
Jul 16, 2019
Messages
365
Points
28
So much masking.... Decided to paint the jambs. Used some of the leftover epoxy from the first coat. The HF detail gun (the $35 version) is actually really good!

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7 hours to mask it, 5 mins to unmask

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