1967 Scout Beater Build

Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by Don B, Feb 20, 2019.


  1. oneof3k

    oneof3k High Wheeler

    Joined:
    May 24, 2017
    Messages:
    1,687
    Likes Received:
    1,608
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Not quite close enough to the CO San Juan Mnts
    Nice feeling to be where you are! Now you just need to find a couple of weeks of really warm days to cure that red stuff!
     
  2. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2018
    Messages:
    898
    Likes Received:
    318
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    Winnipeg, Mb, Canada (near Pembina ND)
    Loose parts are in my basement and the Scout is in my garage with the heat cranked up. Since I used hardener the paint is already nice and hard. I’m nor even going to look at it for another 4 days! In the mean time the travel top gets stripped outside, then I’ll swap out the Scout to finish off the top. Have to figure out a way to insulate and cover the inside of the travel top.
     
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2020
  3. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2018
    Messages:
    898
    Likes Received:
    318
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    Winnipeg, Mb, Canada (near Pembina ND)
    It's time to do the last major part for restoration, the Travel Top. Like everything else mine is in need or some love. The top has one nicely drilled hole (probably for a light so the PO's could go illegal night deer hunting). It also has two small holes punched outwards that look suspiciously like 22 holes, that's my theory anyway. The corners have some metal fatigue which will require patching and reinforcement. There is some prior bondo work which has failed. I'll try to get this all worked out so there is a minimum of bondo. I want to be able to swap a soft top out for summer so the tt needs to be able to flex with the seasonal R&R. I guess I need to figure out how to insulate the top as well. Started stripping the main roof using a knotted wire wheel mounted on the 4-1/2" angle grinder, loud, dusty.
     
  4. J.J.

    J.J. Lives in an IH Dealership

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2003
    Messages:
    6,223
    Likes Received:
    3,594
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Castalian Springs, TN
    Someday I too might get around to putting the travel top on my '76. Maybe. Anyway, I am planning on using Hushmat on mine. If you don't know the product, it comes in sheets and has adhesive on the back, I used it in my floors and inside the door panels. You literally cut and use a wooden roller. The downside of course is that it probably won't ever come off, and it will add weight to your top. You can get a "truck kit" for a full size automobile that will probably cover it. It is somewhere on my build thread.

    JJ in TN
     
  5. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2018
    Messages:
    898
    Likes Received:
    318
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    Winnipeg, Mb, Canada (near Pembina ND)
    Thanks, I'll check it out. Some pics of the mess. Three layers of paint plus original primer, not too bad. The stripping mess continues today.
     

    Attached Files:

    800bman likes this.
  6. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly High Wheeler

    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2017
    Messages:
    2,734
    Likes Received:
    2,189
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Alabama
    Glad you got the paint thing figured out.. still not sure why you had issues with the hvlp..
    When you post your pics if you would hit (insert every image as fullsize) itll put them on fullsize...my net sucks and it takes me forever to try and enlarge pics enough so I can see them..
    20201102_052845.jpg
    I was also reading a few pages back where you were talking about doing radius corners for patches..
    I know your past that now
    But a small hole saw works great for cutting the corners in your old sheetmetal..then make your patch piece to match
     
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2020
    800bman likes this.
  7. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2018
    Messages:
    898
    Likes Received:
    318
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    Winnipeg, Mb, Canada (near Pembina ND)
    Completed stripping the outside of the travel top using a twisted wire wheel and some heat and scrapping combined with sanding off paint in tighter areas. The inside was only stripped where repairs were needed otherwise I just sanded everything down for adhesion. The top flat sections were wavy on each side of the ribs due to previous damage. Both rear corners had cracks running up past the radius bowl portion on the drivers side and up about an inch on the passengers side. Both lift gate corners had busted welds and some cracking. The lower passenger section also had cracked sheet metal. I ground out all the cracks and drilled stop holes. Inside patch panels were fabricated and welded in and then the outside sheet metal was welded up closed. The top sheet metal along the drip rail at the back of the door openings had some cracks and slight distortion. I welded these up and also made some reinforcing clips that go over the drip rails. These were welded in as well. I added similar clips at the two side drip rail locations where the drains were and drilled out the drains afterwards as holes not openings in the drip rail. I then made some reinforcement sections to attach to the rear of each side of the front rib thinking that this would alleviate some of the load at the drip rail. Definately not OEM but hopefully they will help as this seemed like a stressed area of the top. In trying to reform the top skin it was not possible to make the skin completely flat but I got pretty close. I decided to make an extra rib in the larger flat section between rib no. 1 and rib no. 2 so did so and welded it in. It would have been nice to have a spare rib from a wreck as it was tough to fab up and curve properly. The inside drip rails were cleaned up to metal and lots of ospho deruster was used. I zinc primed this inside and out before filling the small metel gaps with seam sealer then the epoxy primer went on. My holes for the lift gate latch were worn and torn so I had to get the size from a BP post and weld in new portions. After this Some minor dents were pounded out and the whole mess got two coats of epoxy primer inside and out. I seam sealed between the ribs and the top skin to help with vibration. More or less ready for the final paint now...maybe tomorrow.
     

    Attached Files:

  8. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2018
    Messages:
    898
    Likes Received:
    318
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    Winnipeg, Mb, Canada (near Pembina ND)
    Some more pics.
     

    Attached Files:

  9. oneof3k

    oneof3k High Wheeler

    Joined:
    May 24, 2017
    Messages:
    1,687
    Likes Received:
    1,608
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Not quite close enough to the CO San Juan Mnts
    When are you going to rename your build title to EX-Beater? And I'm going to purchase some stock in whatever company you use for shielding gas as you must have gone through 15 bottles by now!

    Pretty impressed with how much patience and skills you have; most of use wouldn't have bothered with many of your repairs. Nicely done Don!
     
  10. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2018
    Messages:
    898
    Likes Received:
    318
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    Winnipeg, Mb, Canada (near Pembina ND)
    I am on my 5th gas bottle at $80 per, but I’m not too frugal on the welding-dam good at grinding now though. The travel top is still not the best but it’s about as good as need be. I am not being overly picky on it as it’s a pretty junky one. I’m going to insulate it and put in a couple of led lights. I’ve gone nuts ordering stuff lately for the Scout.

    Don B
     
  11. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2018
    Messages:
    898
    Likes Received:
    318
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    Winnipeg, Mb, Canada (near Pembina ND)
    OK, so my wife and I installed the travel top insulation. We used the mylar bubble sheeting type (refletix) with some sound deadening panels installed in the center area. I ran some wires beforehand for my led lights. First we covered the top ribs just with fabric. After that we made each panel of refletix with lots of test fitting until we were happy with the fit. You have to use alignment marks when installing as you only get one shot at it with the gluing. The glue we used was loctite headliner glue. I bought four cans and we ended up running out so we left out the side pieces to be glued later. They aren't as difficult to install anyway compared to the roof. Note that we put the tt on its side to do the insulation, I recommend this method unless you are a chapel painter by trade or have a really strong neck. After this was done we flipped the tt back on a couple of workmates so it was a comfortable height and I finished off any remaining bodywork. I have to admit I wasn't too fussy about it as it is in rough shape so will have to be replaced eventually anyway. Squirted the arctic white paint on the top as well as the liftgate. Had some funky paint reaction on the first coat so had to use the dusting technique until everything was bridged then sprayed normally. Not sure why this happened as I cleaned the heck out of it. I did have a few small runs so I'll have to cut and buff those out but overall it turned out nice, well good enough anyway.

    Don B IMG_6486.JPG IMG_6501.JPG IMG_6503.JPG IMG_6507.JPG IMG_6508.JPG IMG_6510.JPG IMG_6511.JPG IMG_6512.JPG IMG_6486.JPG IMG_6501.JPG IMG_6503.JPG IMG_6507.JPG IMG_6508.JPG IMG_6510.JPG IMG_6511.JPG IMG_6512.JPG IMG_6501.JPG IMG_6503.JPG IMG_6507.JPG IMG_6508.JPG IMG_6510.JPG IMG_6511.JPG IMG_6512.JPG
     
    oneof3k likes this.
  12. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2018
    Messages:
    898
    Likes Received:
    318
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    Winnipeg, Mb, Canada (near Pembina ND)
    After the travel top spray I left it in the garage with a fan on it and the heat cranked for a week. That was about the longest I could wait because I needed the garage back for small parts work and paint. Basically everything remaining had to be done, heat ducting, all the various strut rods, the wing windows, door inner sheet metal, pedal boxes-you name it! Using my standard knotted wheel, grit wheels and sanding it stripped everything. I then tried some new to products, namely the Kurd mutter derusting solutions gel and regular that HD had available. Actually I was pleasantly purposed how well these worked. The gel worked better on any remaining “heavy” rust, although it wasn’t too bad. The thinner regular deristing solution is much better at wicking into seams. Overall, I give both a thumbs up anyway. I

    I had a lot of issues with the wing windows, one side had a rusted out pivot pin bracket rusted out, at least the frame was still useable otherwise I’dbe out of business. The other wing window needed the upper hinge repaired, it just came apart as the hinge pin rivet was worn and couldn’t be reset. I’ll post the repair pics later a sure as usual my tablet won’t talk to my computer.

    Just finished spraying epoxy primer on everything anyway. Pics later...hopefully.

    Don B
     
  13. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2018
    Messages:
    898
    Likes Received:
    318
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    Winnipeg, Mb, Canada (near Pembina ND)
    Here are some pictures of the window frame work. As I mentioned the wind wing pivot was pre IMG_6521.JPG IMG_6529.JPG IMG_6579.JPG IMG_6580.JPG IMG_6583.JPG IMG_6586.JPG IMG_6588.JPG IMG_6592.JPG IMG_6598.JPG tty much completely rusted out but strangely the frame itself was not too bad. I ended up carefully making a replacement shoe section and welding it on. You have to be picky as the angles set how the frame pivots/fits into the rest of the frame. I was lucky in that my other wind wing was ok so could use it as a template, just reversed. The rivets that had to be drilled out and I replaced them with steel pop rivets which I cut down to length so I could flatten them with a bevelled punch. All the riveted pieces were set into jb weld as well. The open holes in the rivets were filled with epoxy thickened with micro-ballons.
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2020
    oneof3k likes this.
  14. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2018
    Messages:
    898
    Likes Received:
    318
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    Winnipeg, Mb, Canada (near Pembina ND)
    After the wind wings were repaired I loaded the garage with all the small pieces which required refinishing. The side vent on the drivers side required rust removal and a new piece welded in. Of course the repair ended up at the vent notch area so I had to grind those in. Normal stripping of all parts was done using the usual methods, this is one of those times I wish I had a sandblaster! After the stripping everything got cleaned of all oil and then a derusting solution was used (Krud Kutter.) Then all was primed with epoxy primer-two coats mostly and then color painted. Nothing special about the process just a lot of small parts! I thought long and hard about getting the window frames chromed but decided not to bother-this Scout is not worth that much cost. IMG_6514.JPG IMG_6516.JPG IMG_6518.JPG IMG_6527.JPG IMG_6600.JPG IMG_6603.JPG IMG_6604.JPG
     

    Attached Files:

    oneof3k likes this.
  15. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2018
    Messages:
    898
    Likes Received:
    318
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    Winnipeg, Mb, Canada (near Pembina ND)
    For something different I brought the Scout back in the garage. I kind of needed a win so looked at a lot of options for a radio and decided to order a marine type which is small enough to give me lots of mounting options. I couldn't wait and hooked it up in the basement to hear it and it worked way better than I thought it would. Cost was very reasonable. I mounted the speakers in the dash after making two small brackets and fitment looks ok. While I was on a roll I decided to mount my two wiper motors. These the marine ones and deciding what to do for wiper motors was a tough call. My original vacuum equipment was junked as well as my fuel pump. Going with a weber carb and a low pressure electric fuel pump also meant another vacuum source would be needed. So, I went with the electric marine motors. They went in easy with only a hole widening required for the 5/8" shafts. I pre-wired them and reversed the park for the passenger side as per a lot of the other write-ups. One thing that also had to be done is to alter the defrost vent to clear the passenger side. The existing vent plastic was cut, heated and bent to where it would fit. I then glued it and smoothed it out with construction adhesive. Not elegant but it should functiion. IMG_6621.JPG IMG_6618.JPG IMG_6619.JPG IMG_6622.JPG IMG_6623.JPG
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2020
  16. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2018
    Messages:
    898
    Likes Received:
    318
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    Winnipeg, Mb, Canada (near Pembina ND)
    I've pretty much finished all the small parts painting so started bolting some stuff on starting with the brake mc and pedals. No big surprises here, I did make a gasket for behind the mc plate out of fairly thin gasket material. I also did some measurements to determine the thickness of glass setting tape for the wind wings. It's kind of hard to get this right and I believe 1/16" is the thickness required but it might be 3/64". I guess I'll source both and give it a try. Also measured up the window frame channel for new rubber seals. I'm hoping these are a universal part as I've never seen them offered anywhere by the lld or elsewhere. I don't have a real game plan right now just finish off my wiring and keep bolting on parts until I run out. My brake parts sourcing has been a real pain so I'll add a long post when I finally get them figured out. Probably add the info to the alternate parts source as well.
     

    Attached Files:

  17. jeff campbell

    jeff campbell Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2003
    Messages:
    15,986
    Likes Received:
    1,805
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    lima,ohio
    Looking great don.nice work !
     
  18. oneof3k

    oneof3k High Wheeler

    Joined:
    May 24, 2017
    Messages:
    1,687
    Likes Received:
    1,608
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Not quite close enough to the CO San Juan Mnts
    How come it takes you a few weeks to do what I did recently in a few months? It really is amazing how much time all this little stuff takes to strip, clean, prime, and then paint. It's looking really nice Don!

    I just started on my wing and door windows yesterday so your writeup is timely. My window glass seals appear to be in good shape (one of two I've taken apart) so I don't know what advice I can give you with regards to sourcing new seals. I thought my wing windows were in reasonable shape until yesterday when I took a closer look. Turns out the seal is shot on one of them and the pivot is shot on the other like yours was.

    Happy New Years!
     

Share This Page