1967 Scout Beater Build

Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by Don B, Feb 20, 2019.


  1. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

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    Great tip for sure. I’ve tried the new patch technique twice now and it works well. The one thing is you end up with squared corners so, like you said, a radius would be better. Having said that at least you have nice new metal and for a long dragged on project like mine where everything needs work any time saved with a decent outcome is great. I only have the two rear patches left just behind the door to do so this tip was a bit late for me. Not looking forward to the rear patches as the old replacements do not have the raised wheel opening lip on them. What to do...I have a rough plan of action right now and it involves a cutting disc and a dolly and welder. Just putting on the doors now and then the front fenders and front clip so I can see how everything lines up. So much damage it’ll be a miracle to get to 1/8”!

    Don B
     
  2. oneof3k

    oneof3k High Wheeler

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    Getting back to the "new patch technique" you posted about, I came up with an idea that I'll try to make radii in the patch corners. I use a Dremel-type tool with a five foot flex extension for lots of things like final grinding of welds particularly in hard-to-reach areas. New discs are 2" and maybe 1/32" thick? Even after they wear down to about 1" in diameter, I save them for the super hard-to-reach areas. I think with a highly worn disc I could cut a pretty tight but thin radii in a patch.
     
  3. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

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    That should work great. Maybe take some pictures and post them for all of us. Best possible method, I think.

    Epoxy primered front fenders inside and dash as well as the liftgate today. Pics tomorrow.
     
  4. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

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    Been fairly busy with work so not significant progress made. Pictures of the epoxy primed fenders, liftgate and dash attached. Sprayed with my hvlp with a 1.5 tip. Sprayed well at 28 psi at the gun. Un-tarped the Scout and attached the fenders and doors. I found the fitment of the fender/front clip to be tight most likely due to the extensive metal work required for both pieces. There is currently a small gap that you can see light through and the two don't really fit nice. This might be a case where a BFH (rubber) might be the tool of choice, anyway some adjustment required! The passenger door gaps seem ok but the drivers side has a large gap at the rear compared to the passenger side. I think I will end up shimming the door hinges to even up this gap but we'll see after I get the rear fender patches welded in and installed. It looks like I have lots of fitment issues right now. Rolled the Scout in the garage it's a pretty tight fit and I have to roll it out to get the doors on and off. The PS seat is getting in the way so I might fab up the base so it fits the tight confines of the PS. If anyone has fitment tips for any of the above I'm all ears.

    Cheers,

    Don B
     

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  5. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

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    I have been busy with fun summer things but managed to get some work done on my beater build. I had posted on the general forum the question of how one can fit the lower rear quarter patches in when there is no provision for the wheel arch portion. Replies range from they are junk to make your own. Having already bought these and reading on other posts (G Billings) that they were used here is my take on using the patches. Note that my fenders were off so you might have to vary this slightly if yours are still on. The patches are incorrect in three ways. First they do not have the raised arch and transition curve area. Second they do not match the curve of the rocker and fender at the bottom portion. Thirdly, they do not have the full width of wheel arch being only a 1/4" or so. To rectify the first problem I ended up making a template of the inner arch of the fender curve using existing fender lines, the template and patches can be seen in photo 1. I then made a line from the edge of the arch inboard of the edge which is in the curved transition area from the arch to the flat sections of the panel. I made this line about 1/4" inboard at the top of the patch and transitioned it to zero at the end of the arch, this can be seen in photo 2 and yes this area is carefully cut. This allows the patch to lay flat against the existing fender as close as possible at this stage. At the front of the patch determine how much metal you need to remove from the door jamb to get the patch in and fit reasonably snug and cut the metal out. Use caution here and do not go all the way as high as the patch as the patch radius does not end up tangent to the door jamb. I ended up cutting about 1" below the patch which made the patch curve tangent to the door jamb, see photo's 3 and 4. I then tack welded in the patch over top of the existing fender just use a few tacks they are temporary only. Make sure to line up the patch exactly for your fender making the front, rear and bottom portions exactly right in their locations. Once tacked score a line that you want to cut the length of and cut it out using a thin blade. I used one in my angle grinder and also angled it in at about a 45 degree angle so the tow cuts line up when fitting later, see photo 5 for this. Now using dolly's you need to develop a nice rolled edge along your marked line for the wheel arch as well as the curve along the arch where it transitions to the flat panel. This takes some time about a half hour at least. You want to get the sharp edge as nice as possible. Once done the finish welding can be done along the big cut making sure to have the bottom of the panel in the best possible position. Photo 6 shows this as well as my wheel arch flange which was built in sections and welded on....but I am jumping ahead. I carefully checked all my welds and re-welded any flaws I found. After this, I scored the front and rear of the patch so I could bend the bottom portions to match the curve of the rocker and old fender. Doing this also brings the lower flange closer to the inner rocker flange for welding. I did sometimes tack the front of the patch to the rocker so I could bang on the patch using a slapper for lower fitment. I would then remove the tacks later if required. Once this was completed I fabricated and welded up the inner wheel arch. Nothing too spectacular here, I did it in sections but if you own a shrinker you might get away with one piece. After some finish grinding the repair is basically done. Whew sure would be a lot easier if the repair panels where shaped right to begin with. Anyway, this is how I did it, your results may vary use at your own risk, I don't have any money etc...

    Don B
     

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  6. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

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    Summer has gotten in the way of any real progress on my beater build but some work was done. I have started zinc plating several parts. Did lots of rear fender pre weld prep which took at least three weeks to get everything fitted up. I should be able to weld them in by the weekend. Started the steering wheel restoration using pc7 epoxy. Lots of cracks on it. Most of the turn signal/horn mechanism is damaged or missing. Quite surprised the turn signal stuff wasn’t working as around here no-one uses them. While you can get the cam (she-mar part SM-14) the plastic part the cam attaches to appears to be a used item only. My turn signal stalk is missing entirely so I’ll have to fab one unless a used one turns up. I’ll post pictures once I can get my iPad mini to be recognized by my pc...what a pain.

    Happy fishing,

    Don B
     
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  7. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

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    Not Scout related but a BMW parts vendor sent me a $100 voucher for naked wines.com in case anyone wants it. Sounds like a minimum $160 purchase minus the voucher of $100 so cost is $60. Probably have to sign up or some nonsense. Anyway if someone wants it let me know and I’ll email the codes (very secret) pm me.

    Cheers Don B

    Pics and updates soon!
     
  8. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

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    Some pictures of some minor progress. At this point both rear fenders are welded in. I used a 1" x 1" piece of wood inside the upper rail to be able to clamp the inner and outer fenders together as well as some metal bolts to line everything up. I did go a little nuts with the door jamb welds as It was difficult to ensure penetration with the dinky oem weld areas. I ground all these out and JB welded any small gaps as well. The split at the fender and rockers were similarly partially filled in using PC-7 epoxy. All the rear section sheet metal was completely stripped, treated with ospho and then filled in with fiberglass type long strand filler or short strand, depending on the depths of any dented areas. There were few deep dents only where I had spliced on other fender parts and at the two lower quarters where I transitioned from the LLD patches I bought and the orig fenders. No area was more than 1/4" deep at the worst but due to the extensive reworking of the fenders and endcaps I did have lots of little wows to get evened out (none really deep-around 1/8"). Tested the tailgate fit when I first had the fenders cleako'd on and the gaps were nice and even. Haven't taken any photos but I put on skim coats of bondo and basically sanded pretty much all of it off to get al the mini wows out. So the rear end is pretty close to putting on high build primer stage. I need to get moving before the cold weather makes painting a impossibility. OH, I also welded in more form fitting fender rear liners. These were scribed and welded in, I then used seam sealer from them to the outer fenders.

    .Chers,

    Don B
     

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  9. oneof3k

    oneof3k High Wheeler

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    Getting there Don! Another year to go? I'm so glad I'm past the stage your at.

    Even though it's still shorts weather here in CO, the forecasters are calling for 6" of the white stuff next Tuesday. So get some paint on soon!
     
  10. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

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    I need to take a couple of days off so I can hammer out the rest, won’t take too much really mainly Bondo-sand all the wows out epoxy prime-high build final sand then paint about three days worth of solid work.

    Does anyone seam seal between the inner and outer rear fenders at the top area? Looks like a rust trap to me. I am thinking of sealing this area up anyway.

    Back to fishing.

    Don B
     
  11. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

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    Well the bondo- kitty hair filler days are done! All of the panels are finished sanded, primed blocked etc...the usual. I finished with blocking out high build primer. One, was Besa brand..absolute crap and that’s giving crap a bad name. The second type I used was a new product called pure reflections. I highly recommend this hbp as it dries glossy so you KNOW Where are the issues are. Sprays great too with a 1.4 hvlp gun, weird I know. As it’s getting colder here it was time to paint. As I’m old school and my “shop” is small I am using AE paint. I’ve-sprayed ae, single stage urathane (mason) and base coat clear coat on my 97 Bimmer. Really, to be honest I still like ae best. The new paint is great but the health hazards are extensive for a diy job, costs are crazy andI see as many problems with them as anything else these days. My preference is something I-can spray and repair so I can use my Scout and not be a fuss ass, you should see my fishing buddies, I sprayed my bug-eye with mason ss urathane and wasn’t pleased. I found it too choppy. It was hard but any knock and a hard chip resulted-uck! Anyway, enough whining ae is what I am using. My friend Lindsay came over to man the light and bounce back his take on spraying ae paint with hvlp. Well, we tried all my hvlp guns with various pressures, tip sizes, spray distances ..everything and never could get a flat spray. I have sprayed cars at 15 years old to about 10 years ago and never was more frustrated than today, Gramted, this is cheap ae but still..hmmm. So, I hauled out the Binks 7 clone I owned since I was 15 and without even changing any settings on the gun but upping the psi to 42 laid it out flat and glossy.

    So much for hvlp for ae. If you know the secretforae hvlp please pass it on otherwise old tech for old paint, why fight it.

    Sprayed test panels etc..sprayed the dash. Tomorrow the big spray starts. I have to do it in sections due to space but with solid color this should be ok.

    Photos tomorrow if I can get the old tablet to talk.

    Don B
     
  12. oneof3k

    oneof3k High Wheeler

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  13. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

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    I’ll try to pm him to get some scoops. I’d love to be able to spray it with hvlp but so far not much luck.

    How does one pm on this site anyway?

    Just got in spraying the front clip, tailgate and hood. Pretty happy with the result for my hacker skills. I’ll try to post some photos when there is daylight to take them in.

    Don B
     
  14. oneof3k

    oneof3k High Wheeler

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    On a computer, in the upper left portion of the home page, click on inbox. Then you just have to search for Mongocanfly and the rest is pretty easy.

    Good luck and looking forward to seeing some pics Don!
     
  15. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

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    OK, been painting most of the week so here are the results. The first photo shows my old hood with some test shots sprayed using every gun/paint setup that I could try. The paint was set to manufacturers spec for shooting at 70 degrees 30% humidity..in other words perfect. Some minor tweaking of reducer was tried but nothing above or below 10%. All of the test shots ultimately failed with the best hvlp 1.5 tip running at 32 psi and 5" from the panel. This one gave the best results but were totally blown away by my old siphon gun so THAT is what was used. I shot the inside of the hood first and believe me it wasn't the smoothest prep on purpose...good enough for this spot. Top of the hood was prepped well so sprayed better. One small fisheye which I didn't see until late in the second coat which is too late to mist repair it. Anyway the gloss is great small acceptable amount of orange peel looks period correct and no cutting or buffing will be required. I'll add other progress shots later today, front clip, doors, front fenders and the tailgate.

    Don B
     

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  16. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

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    Shots of the front clip ,and doors. The inside of the clip was painted body color. The doors were painted in two stages inside and then flipped over and the outside skin painted. I did get a small run in one door at the bottom..just got a little cocky with the last pass.Zero issues with the front clip and it was the one i expected to end up with a run.
     

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  17. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

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    Some shots of the front fender and tailgate. I have other shots of the fenders but haven't downloaded them. All three panels turned out good, no runs a few dust nibs and one fisheye.
    Tomorrow is the rear section painting which is obviously on the Scout.
     

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  18. oneof3k

    oneof3k High Wheeler

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    I hope you like red everywhere for the rest of your life! Those panels turned out great Don! My memory is foggy, but to do recall the massive rebuild of your tailgate which looks fantastic. I didn't think you could pull that one off as well as you did.
     
  19. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

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    Tailgate turned out good. Considering what I had I am happy with the result. Shot the back section this afternoon. I was a bit worried about runs but the only ones are one in the front passenger door jamb, not normally visible a Very small one on the lower passenger rocker but it’s very small. So all the exterior red is now shot in AE paint. Not show quality but way better than a 20 footer, probably a normal 1967 paint job. I’ve been looking at a lot of paint in new vehicles lately,weird I know and lots of orange peel is still around. W seems about the worst but lots of others have it. So even the basecoat clear coat jobs still have it. If I want to make my paint perfect I shot enough on to cut and buff it out. More photos tomorrow.

    Nice to have this out our the way.

    Don B
     
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  20. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

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    Photos of the rear section finish work. I color matched raptor liner and sprayed it in the rear box, except for the floor. I found the texture too rough for the drivers and passenger floor pans so I rollered and brushed it on after reducing it about 15%. A small foam roller worked well and I ended up putting on three thin coats. Hopefully, this will keep the scratches and dings down. For the back section and the floor pans i used three out of the four Raptor bottles. Did the last of the red ae painting on the rear fenders and end caps. Didn't get more than one very small run at the very bottom of the passenger rocker. All painted panels have some very slight dust nibs, some orange peel but very minor. Over all the paint worked great as long as I spray with the siphon gun. I still have to spray the travel top after I do some minor crack repair. I think I'll give the hvlp one more test and I can't get it too work then it never will!

    Cheers,

    Don B
     

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