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Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by Don B, Feb 20, 2019.
Nice work Don!
Thanks...still slowly moving forward. I have the other door to do, both front fenders, front clip and the hood left for repair work. Nothing nearly as difficult as what I have already finished. Super horny to get some primer and paint squirted on!
Don’t tell your wife!
You're correct of course, but not everyone has your skills, time, patience, or if I may, craziness. Or maybe they're just loaded with more USD or even CD! I've long thought that my '64 is beyond hope in terms of certain body panels, but you've convinced me otherwise and I should be able to score $8500 for the truck when the time comes.
You make a major job look easy Don. But get all this welding/grinding done in the winter/spring so you can deal with the cosmetic stuff if and when it warms up.
We can only hope that what you end up squirting on the Scout is indeed primer and paint .
lol. great ! Thanks for the tip. Really laughed on this!
I know you were contemplating what to do about your window regulator(s) in another thread. Saw a few up at Coonrods today. Unknown applications.
Crikey what a wet dream of window regulators! I'd love to able to get down to Coonrod's for some stuff. My brother has undertaken the task of the regulator rebuild. He is megga picky so will do the best job possible (aircraft guy).
I'll post what was done when he finishes. So far he is making a steel template to be able to grind/file the teeth into the correct profile. I welded them up previously.
We found a Help door hinge package that has what appears to be good sized bushings which will be used to remove the slack from the drive gear axle. The rest of the mechanism needs to be taken apart and a couple of the springs replaced and everything given a good anti-rust cleanup. I'm glad he has volunteered to do all the heavy lifting on this!
So in the last 10 days or so my brother has rebuilt one of the regulators. The wrecked large main gear was cleaned up and about 1/2 the teeth rewelded. He made a nice jig to set the tooth distance and act as a file guide as well as the tooth depth setting for grinding. A new bushing was installed on the drive gear side and the other shaft opening lightly peened to take some minor slack out. We used one of the Help door bushing kits for this and one of the sets fits almost perfectly for diameter and just needs to be cut to length. I, in the mean time worked on the other door. At this point both doors are welded up and all structural repairs done. I worked the door metal with dollying and some shrinking completed. One of them was a mess and both had hinge area damage. I did have to use some fiberglass filler as there was no way in H I was going to be able to get them completely flat. During the repairs I improved the stock set-up where metal failure was observed although the PO's were obviously a ham handed bunch. I just got in tonight after spraying the tailgate and both doors with some 2k epoxy primer. Any other work should be restricted to very minor bondo and maybe some high build primer. Pics to follow as I didn't want epoxy primer on my tablet! Oh, also looked at my sad sack hinges. I might have to build my own looking at the cost of them from the ll dealers. Drivers side is really bad!
Some photos of the door regulator rebuild. It was fairly straightforward just some welding to build up the teeth and a rebushing on the drive gear shaft using the help kit.
Took a good hard look at my door hinges and decided that two at least are well beyond saving. Not only is there excessive pin and hole wear the PO had welded in repairs which were in no way decent. A couple of the repairs even had the smaller plate welded in using the wrong offset. Giving a try to bend up the 1/4 x 2-1/2 plates to the factory curve using a bfh which didn't work so I decided to try some heat. I cut a old propane tank in half doing all the usual purge measures and did a quick and dirty fab for a rough forge. I made a bending jig out of one of my old ng spring plates and a couple of steel rod. Using charcoal briquettes got me to dull red color on the metal to be bent. This sort of worked but wasn't quite right for the curve and there was a lot of variation. I ended up buying some large chunk charcoal which supposedly goes to 1400f vs the charcoal which only goes to 800f. As I already had most of the curves in place I merely heated the steel up and got a much nicer glowing red color and stuck a steel rod in the inside of curve and squished it in my vice...worked like a champ. I have a reamer on order as well as a set of hinge pins so I'll wait to drill out the rod and fix in place to weld. Pretty happy with the curved pieces though. I couldn't take and live photos of the bending and rod sizing in the vice so faked those shots.
That is some more impressive work Don. Don't think I've seen that before. Question: did you have to sleep on the couch during this process for borrowing the bosses turbo charger, er I mean hair dryer?
She actually gave it to me as a new one was bought with even more power to shed, I mean dry more hair. Antsy to get the hinges done but I have to wait for a reamer. They have shut everything down here for at least two weeks so it’ll be awhile. At least there is no shortage of other things to do. The hood, front fenders and front clip for a few. I might fire up the forge again to make a couple of door strap posts, the part on the inner fender. Do you happen to have any dimensions and a pic of one?
I presume your talking about the post on the kick plate? That's gotta be much easier to "forge" than the door hinges! Sorry about the poor pics. Both dimensions are just a tad over 2".
Perfecto and thanks much. My beater didn't have either of these, they used some junk to hold the doors back with many holes drilled! They look easy to forge and I never having forged before kind of like it..fire...hammering...beer what is not to like?
My brother now wants something else forged so I can do his stuff at the same time. I'll post the pictures as it happens.
Stay safe and well.
Continued with both the hood crack repair and the new door hinge fabrication. I left my brother to do all the drilling of the rods with undersized holes. The final holes will be drilled out and reamed as soon as the reamer gets delivered. The real tricky part of the hinges is getting all the ends of the drilled rods nice and perpendicular to the rod so the hinges bear flat with each other and the alignment for welding. We ended up putting the rods on a shaft the same size as the drilled out holes and spinning them with a rubber sanding sleeve drum for power. We trued them up by running a file while they were spinning. After all of them were done we matched the rods all up for the best fitting ones. For welding we put the rods together on along shaft and squared everything up using the hinge plate as a guide. We tacked the middle rod in place and then used a bolt to squeeze the outer two rods together for a nicer fit and tacked those in place. Once all three rods were tacked the heavy welds were put in. This required a lot of grinding afterwards to make them look halfway decent. The action on each hinge was checked and any metal hindering the hinge action was filed or ground away. At the end the hinges had good range of motion quite similar to the oem ones... at least from what I could tell from my junkers. I still have to drill out the mounting holes, ,what the heck was IH thinking with all the crazy angles anyway? Sheesh! Anyway I'm fairly pleased with the results and I got a forge out of the deal.
Bought a couple of the K Source 3511 mirrors for the Scout. They are black so I'll either paint them in white to match the top or try to chrome spray them. Of all the mirrors I've looked at I liked these the most and they fold in for my tight garage. If I hate them they aren't going on and they were only $30 anyway.
Another difficult project made to look easy! If I recall correctly, aftermarket door hinges are going for about $75 each. Could you ramp up production to make a set and make a penny or two? For most things I've done that anyone might want, I suspect I would make $3.50/hour on a good day!
The actual material cost is about $30/set plus a reamer plus a drill bit or two and large chunk charcoal. I always figure material x 3 so someone doing this for a small fee would have to charge at least $120. The lld ones that I have seen vary quite a bit and most likely are better than mine but $75/pop plus US to Canadian plus shipping even if just shipped to the border plus gas etc and I would be looking at 5 bills Canadian. So for me it's worth the fab. Most of my project is like this so I'm used to it.
Stay safe and healthy,
Haven't posted in a while but have been slowly plugging away. Both front fenders were reworked with hammer and dolly as well as flatbars etc. to get them back into shape. Both lower front areas had been hit as well as some dents along both rear sections. The nice wheel arch sections also had damage. For the wheel arch sections I made some hardwood pieces to clamp and squeeze the sections back into plane. All the rest was judicious dolly work. At the bottom of the fenders at the rear each needed a small repair section welded in as the metal was torn and some rust lurked there. I also removed a large ugly dent (as well as other small guys) from the front clip. My brother came in to give me a hand as it was a lot easier with two people for this repair. I was stunned how you can get the metal back into shape here just needed a lot of massaging. I'll need some small amounts of filler but nothing gross. Pics attached. I have to do the rear fender patches next then everything can be attached to the Scout and final bodywork done for paint prep. PS, I found a great repair tip on youtube Fritzee's auto repair. Saved a lot of time in fitting.
Your work continues to amaze me Don! I don't think you need a damn bit of coaching, but I learned towards the end of my patching days to make a radii (1/2" drill bit for example) at inside corners. I seem to have less issues with warping?
I've never seen a patch installed the way Fritz did on that video you provided. I kept thinking what is the downside to that technique but I couldn't think of any. I'll definitely give that a shot on my next build. Thank you.