1967 Scout Beater Build

Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by Don B, Feb 20, 2019.


  1. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

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    Thought I would make this beater thread for my 67' Scout 800, this is for all of us without the nice AZ rust free Scouts and without significant equipment for the rustoration...budget also being a consideration. . My mission statement is a decent driver that is relatively rust free without going for any radical engine/driveline swaps but doing any sensable improvements to make the Scout more enjoyable.

    My Scout was purchased in December 18' and came with a spare 152 engine and a spare transmission with an attached Ramsey PTO. The engine in the Scout was not running when I purchased it but was reported to have ran a "couple of years ago". The bodywork on the Scout was beat to RF but for the most part was relatively rust free. Pretty much all the systems needed rebuilding or going over.

    Sitting in my small one car garage room is a bit tight but I have just enough room to work on it. I have removed the engine and taken it apart and sent to the machinist. The news here wasn't good with over $2,800 being required for a rebuild not including any additional labor. At that point I reviewed the engine options and the BP forum helped. I decided on just going with a 196 and eventually, just purchased one..a supposed good runner-we'll see I guess. Also needed was a front axle or a axle rebuild as the PO didn't properly seal the front differential so water got in and ruined the assembly. A used one is on the way, again we'll see how that shapes out.

    To date, the PS floor pan was replaced as well as the front footwell, inside rocker repair and rear quarter panel repair. The DS floorpan area is stripped and some of the required patches have been welded in.

    None of the door windows roll up due to the felt and weatherstripping rotting out.

    So I'm going to repair all the bodywork, I'm going to paint it and I'm going to get all the mechanical systems to a state where it's driveable and insurable and we'll go from there.

    Lots of fun ahead...all good I just wish I had a bigger workshop but at least it's heated.
     

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  2. Tim Lohse

    Tim Lohse Farmall Cub

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    Go for it, Don! I'm all about the average Joe, doing this kind of restoration without breaking the bank. When I went looking to buy my truck, my wife's only condition was that it had to be something we could drive down the dirt roads and park anywhere we want. Making your Scout a reliable driver will be a lot more fun than creating a trailer queen.
     
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  3. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

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    PS floor pan, some inner rocker repair and lower quarter panel patch. Made an X brace and welded it in but should have welded it in beforehand for access. Had a difficult time getting my welder dialed in so the welds get better, I hope. I made all the panels up using a angle iron and some flat bar as vices. I later made a 30" break to speed things up.
     

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  4. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

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    Drivers side work in progress. I have to do a lot of work on the gas tank area before I can get to the actual floor pan. Squashed body support needed replacement as well...lots of demo on this side.
     

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  5. tim vaughan

    tim vaughan Farmall Cub

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    Following this build alot of us budget builders out here lol.
     
  6. oneof3k

    oneof3k High Wheeler

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    Hmm, I guess everyone has a different definition of relatively rust free! :cornfused:
    Pretty much what I had to go through the past year! I hope you can replace all the metal in a lot less time though. Lots of work, but looking good!
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2019
  7. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

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    Have to make frame to body supports, both sides, behind the doors. Posted and got back the dimension of 2-5/16" from the forum so now I'll make some up and install. I would guess that I might as well undo all the body/frame bolts and raise the body enough to get this done easier. My engine and tranny are out so I'm thinking about raising it about 3" to do the repairs. It would be nice to do a frame off but space/equipment considerations prevent that so I'll just work around it as best I can. My supports were both squished and tilted so I would guess that the body needs some adjustment to get all the body mount holes lined up.
     
  8. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

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    Completed body mount photos attached. I added extra braces to be welded in at the rear of the mounts. While the 2-5/16" dimension is correct from the top of the mount to the top of the frame, it changes to 2-2/16" at the rear of the mount to accommodate the frame turning upwards. I'll only weld these in once I'm assured of all the bushing holes lining up. This is because my mounts were squished and tilted so I'm a little leery of the alignment. Cut out portions of inner rocker and bottom quarter panel. Outer rocker panel is beat up but not too bad rust wise, some dolly work should get it in good shape. Gas tank bottom panel is MIA so I'll have to make one of those.
     

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  9. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

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    Installed the body support this weekend as well as the rear bulkhead patch. The PO must have really tried hard to hit every panel in this Scout! The inner rocker patch is welded in place. I used the depth from the top of the rocker as a guide and then used a string to extend the line fwd and to the rear. Front footwell panel is welded in, I fully welded this in for some reason, not sure why. Had to weld the front pan supports out of 1/8" plate as I couldn't bend them. Inside inner gas tank compartment is made but not welded in... this weekend probably. Started to form the lower quarter panel patch and my crude tools are shown in the photo, don't laugh it works! This weekend I want to make the drivers floor pan and install it. That will complete the passenger and drivers floor pans, footwells, essentially all the rust repair up to the gas tank area. Rust repair isn't my favorite so I really want to finish this off! Enjoy the photos, threw in a photo of my concrete lathe for fun.
     

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  10. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

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    Weekends progress. Fabricated the gas compartment floor using the PS as a template. Fabricated most of the gas compartment rear cover, used a crude plywood die to hammer out the bump in the cover. Photos of this show my tooling. templated out the drivers floor pan, cut it out and welded it in. Welded in the gas compartment inside panel and started to weld in the GC floor but I ran out of mig gas! I note that this straightened up the inner rocker that I made previously which means my lower outer quarter panel should align better! Gave the welded up areas a coat of zinc primer on the seam areas. Finally getting near to completing the main rusted areas up to the gas tank. Strangely, the passenger side gas tank area has little rust, just some minor impact damage. It would be nice to source out some of the square 5/16" NF nuts that IH used but I've never seen these anywhere so normal nuts will have to do. I should complete all welding this week for the areas I've fabricated. next up will be the quarter panel patch assuming I can form it correctly. IMG_3856.JPG IMG_3857.JPG IMG_3859.JPG IMG_3860.JPG
     

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  11. oneof3k

    oneof3k High Wheeler

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    Nice work Don! Are you planing on adding cross braces and / or X braces to the bottoms of the floor pans?

    And just for S&Gs, where specifically were your square nuts? (Maybe I should be more careful how I word a question like that)!
     
  12. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

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    I’ll make some x braces and weld them in. My form isn’t quite good enough yet, mind you someone said they don’t add much strength. I did form the straight braces. The mid ones are 18 gauge and I had to weld up the front ones as they are 1/8” thick. There are sq captured nuts throughout the Scout a lot of which give way when trying to remove the bolts. The nuts I was talking about are the axle ones though to I’d my rear axle..lol. Did complete the gas tank compartment welding tonight glad it’s over pretty tight in there.
     
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  13. oneof3k

    oneof3k High Wheeler

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    I know my son (who is a mechanical engineer) came over after I welded on the X braces and he said something like those are pretty silly from a structural viewpoint! But they sure look cool!

    I haven't done much mechanical work on my current project recently, but I do not recall seeing any square nuts on the body. It could be my memory, or perhaps a Canadian Scout thing (assuming your's was born in Chatham)? I too had maybe half a dozen nuts sheer off whilst disassembling the body.
     
  14. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

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    Will post photos of the nuts when I get home.
     
  15. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

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    Gas tank compartment bottom panel dimensions as I measured it. A member asked for this. I make no representation that it's spot on you should always check it to your vehicle. Some notes: it would always be better to order the panels from a light line dealer for best fitment, remember to weld the nuts on the bottom flange 3 x 5/16" NF, the photo shows no hole in the panel but my 800 has a 1" hole in each of the drivers and passengers panels..I believe it's for the fuel line, not sure of the exact angle on the rear flange as I just matched with my bevel gauge looks to be about 30 degrees though.
     

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  16. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

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    Photo of captured square nuts located thoughout the Scout. They are all 5/16 NF thread. I haven't found a ready source for these so I've just welded on regular nuts when required.
     

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  17. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

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    Drivers side floor pan more or less completed now. The only thing left is to weld in the front brace which I'll do once I have lowered the body onto the supports, it's currently raised up a 2x4 spacer.
    I also added a access panel on the passenger side for the starter. The PO had already roughly (very rough) cut this out so I just made it a more regular shape and welded in some holding nuts.
     

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  18. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

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    Started looking at the rear section and had to concede defeat and will have to remove the fender. Measured everything up and made some diagrams and proceeded to drill out all the spot welds. This went ok but I did have a couple of total drill throughs! Once drilled out I modfied a high quality trim removal tool by making it narrower and sharpened the side as well. This lets you get in the tight areas like the top of the fender at the door to break the welds loose. You can also use the side of the tool as a axe by hitting it with a bfh! A photo of the tool I used is attached. I used a strip disc on my angle grinder to remove the paint and reveal the spot welds. Not too much to say about this process just to take your time and get all the spot welds drilled.
     

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  19. Don B

    Don B Binder Driver

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    Well now for the bad news. LOTS of unexpected rust was found after the fender was removed. Some rust in the inner end cap, rust in the inner fender angled piece (ie completely rusted out), rust along the bottom of the bed side (which I had known about) , rust in the "C" channel that the bed gets welded to, rust in the rear "W" beam! Ack, rust rust rust. Looks like I'll have to rebuild the bed sides at the back, replace some/all of the "C" channel, replace the "W" channel, replace the bed as it'll be wrecked putting in the "C" channel. I'm not sure where the heck I can get the "C" or "W" channels any way. They are probably too thick for me to make. I might be able to find some rectangular stock that might work...hopefully. Picture of all the RUST attached. I think I might as well remove the other fender as well as the bed so I have a complete picture of what I need to do. Looks like I might as well get another bottle of mig gas!
     

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  20. oneof3k

    oneof3k High Wheeler

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    Yikes! I recently went through what you will be repairing, and you might indeed need more than a single tank of shielding gas! And another spool of wire to boot. Loads of work, but you'll get in done!
     
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2019

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