1966 Scout 800 Restoration

Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by Matthew G., Nov 2, 2020.


  1. Matthew G.

    Matthew G. Farmall Cub

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    @scout2000 @winchested @Jeff Jamison Ok...so another $1k++++ day today...lol. Got a set of Dana 44 front a rear 3.54s. Now, should I go ahead and order the complete rebuild kits for both? (I bought the 2" CPT lift kit also with reverse shackles as well) If so, what brand should I go with and what all do I need? I heard Yukon makes good products. I am going disc conversion in the rear and considering hydro boost. Thoughts?
     
  2. winchested

    winchested Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    Yukon is just US standard with a huge mark up but better warranty. I only got Yukon gears because of the warranty. And it was the cheapest 4.88s I could get up here.

    Any brand with koyo or timken bearings will be fine.

    You doing the gear sets yourself?
     
  3. Matthew G.

    Matthew G. Farmall Cub

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    @winchested Yep. I watched a video on YouTube. Lol...my Dad is going to help me..a little father/son time never hurts since he's getting older now and retired. He wants to help. It doesn't look too terribly complicated... unless it is..?
     
  4. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly High Wheeler

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    it is..haha...setting up gears can be very frustrationg...and time consuming...takes quite a few specialty tools ...as much as you've spent so far , I think youd be money and time ahead to let a good shop do your gearsets..my 2cents
     
  5. winchested

    winchested Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    Use an old set of bearings as setup sets if you can. Die grind buff the inner race bore until its a slip fit. For the pinion and carrier bearings. Makes it much easier to set from scratch.

    Ordering a set of set up bearings costs more than new bearings lol.

    If you get a full master set its great.

    See if you can borrow or source a diff bearing clamshell puller.


    I just did my 4.88s in the rear and set up was dang close off the hop all I had to do was change the preload on the pinion.

    Your best bet is to start off with exactly what the old set up was copy it to the new gears and start there with shimming/ back lash etc.
     
  6. Matthew G.

    Matthew G. Farmall Cub

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    @winchested @mongocanfly Spent an hour+ watching this guy. Seems relatively painless, yet time consuming nonetheless, with the correct tools...which I ordered. I definitely want to contribute to the build... albeit a minor contribution!

     
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  7. winchested

    winchested Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    Awesome. It's always fun as hell to learn new skills anyhow.!
     
  8. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly High Wheeler

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    Everybody that does diffs had to do one for the first time....good luck with it..!
     
  9. Matthew G.

    Matthew G. Farmall Cub

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  10. winchested

    winchested Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    Yup 1 front 1 rear. The rear does not use inner seals. You will also want new outer axles shaft seals for rear and bearings.

    If you aren't swapping to different carriers you may find your shim settings very close.

    Like I just changed my rear gears and like I said I didn't change the Carrier shim stack, mesh looked decent enough with .007" backlash. Only had to change the pinion preload shims.

    That's why it's best to start a new set up with the same that was in before.
     
  11. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly High Wheeler

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    You can reuse your old bearings for setup...that is if you dont ruin them getting them off
    Just hone the id till it slips on the races..
    Since the front diff is less critical than the rear..I'd start with the front and see how you feel about doing gears before trying the rear..
    I've done some that I hit right on the 1st few trys...others I've had the diff in out out 20+ times..
    Trying to get the pattern perfect can be frustrating at times...sometimes I just have to walk away from it and come back later..then when you put your run bearings in keep in mind things can be different from the setup bearings...

    Tom..I think hes wanting to swap to a locker in the rear ..so hes looking at starting from scratch..

    For the rear..
    I'd look at the Eaton trutrac, and I like Yukon gears and Yukon build kits...that all depends on if its available for your axle..
    For the front , I'd leave it a open diff...unless your planning extreme offroad...
    If you did want a front locker I'd lock at the e-locks
     
  12. winchested

    winchested Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    I swapped in a TruTrac on the previous Gears (re-used the gears just changed carriers) and the set up was dead nuts, no shim change needed. So thats why I would start with the same shim set up because it gets you in the ball park (or dead nuts) from step 1.
     
  13. Matthew G.

    Matthew G. Farmall Cub

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    @mongocanfly @winchested If I could trouble you guys to show me what I need to buy to do everything you suggested please? I know I have the master overhaul sets for the front and rear. But if you could guide me to what I need to buy I would be grateful! These are both 3.54.
     
  14. winchested

    winchested Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    You will need a dial indicator on a mag base. And an inch lb torque wrench (just the cheap pointer type.)

    You don't need a press persay but it does help. As does a good set of bearing splitters (I have the cheap harbor freight ones and unfortunately they don't do a good job). There is a special carrier and pinion bearing tool but its like $250 to 300. (like a clam shell style.)

    If you don't have a bearing race tool a good brass rod punch about 10-12" long is good enough.
     
  15. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly High Wheeler

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    I have a hf press, a bearing seperater that i made,dial ind on mag base, in/lb dial torque wrench, 0-300 clicker torque wrench, 6pt impact sockets and basic tool sets,and I have access to a bearing heater which is nice, seal drivers, bearing race drivers that I made, slide hammer with assorted attachments, dial calipers, micrometers, various punches, i also have access to a case spreader,and a swear jar(big one)...
     
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  16. winchested

    winchested Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    I've never used a case separator. Sometimes it hard to get the carrier out but pry bar usually works. Never hard to get back in with a few whacks from a dead blow or just pulling in with the caps.
     
  17. Matthew G.

    Matthew G. Farmall Cub

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    @mongocanfly I found a NP241c pass drop...will that marry up to the 4L70? Looks like they are 27 spline count?
     
  18. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly High Wheeler

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    Before you buy anything you need to make sure of what fits what...like I said, I'm not up speed on the auto trans... I dont even know anyone with a 4l70
    I know you'll need a adapter of some sorts..
    Depends on if you start with a 2wd or 4wd trans...
    Lots of variables and combinations..
    Your best place for advice on this will be advance adapters..
    https://www.advanceadapters.com
     
  19. Matthew G.

    Matthew G. Farmall Cub

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    Ok guys...so the 4L70e will fit the passenger side drop NP241c. Both are 27 spline. Secondly, are there any recommendations for headers for my LS3? I saw some on Anything Scout, but they are sold out.
     
  20. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly High Wheeler

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    Unless your just set on headers, the stock LS3 manifolds flow very well..as do the tbss manifolds..
     

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