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KB Article Spring bushing replacement

2021 Arizona International Harvester Rendezvous
This is an old write up I did when replacing my stock bushings with urethane bushings on my Scout II
Here are the bushings I used.

They are avail everywhere and from most vendors.
The urethane bushings hold up very well but will give a little stiffer ride since there is less give to them then rubber. But that's better for cornering...right?
You need a jack, or 2. I used a highlift and a small bottle jack.
A pry bar. The bigger the better.
Air impact gun makes it nice.

So what else do you need...well if you don't have a ball joint tool you better get one. They are avail at Harborfreight, northerntool, Homier tools, EBay, and lots of other places. Just get one the next time you see them on sale.

Here's why.

You need to remove the old bushing which is rubber, but it has a metal sleeve around it.
You can cut, burn, air chisel, Drill and anything else and they will win!!!

This is what the bad bushings look like.

You can see straight thru!!!
Like I said there is a metal sleeve that has surely rusted to the spring eye by now.
Once you jack up your scout from the frame, to take the pressure off the spring, (did you block the tires and set the e-brake) remove the bolt. Sometimes easier said then done.
I don't jack it up all the way. Just till the tire looks like it is ready to come off the ground. Then while I am pulling the bolt out I check to see which way I need to go to free up the bolt from binding.
Once the bolt is out you can jack it up some more to clear the spring if needed.
Take a look at the ends of the bushing. sometimes the metal is sticking out further on one side.
If it is then I try to drive it out that direction.

On my first one I pulled out my ball joint tool and started to set it up.
It always takes me more time to figure out what i need to drive the bushing out then to actually do the job.
So anyway this is the first one where i used a 3/8" drive 7/8" socket backwards to drive and the small cup to receive. it took 2 hands and a knee to hold it all in place.

once it moved and was half way out i just tapped it the rest of the way with the socket and hammer.

And the first one out.

Well I used a little wire brush and cleand everything up then I lightly greased the new bushing and slid them in.

Well while I was at it, I decide to change to greasable bolts.
I had already replaced most of the bushing and within 3 months they were already squeaking.
So I went to southwest4x4(he's on EBay) and ordered 3 sets of bolts to do all of them. 3 X SWGRB-SW4716 = $71.85
They are 4" long X 7/16" Grade 8 so they are harder than stock grade 5.

Well when I looked at my bushings, the center sleeve is not slit or drilled so I thought : bonk : what good are the bolts if no grease can get to the bushings?
So I drilled a small hole in each sleeve!


Now they can get grease!!!

As an alternative installation, you can delete the inner metal bushing and just measure the OD of it. Then get a bolt with the same OD that is drilled for the grease fitting and drill out each shackle bolt hole for the new size.
IIRC it is 5/8". That will provide a much stronger bolt and no sleeve to deal with.
But you do not tighten the nuts as tight as you can!!!
Simply tighten to remove any play between the shackle and bushing.
You should also select a shackle with a wider frame so it matches the diameter of the bushing.

After I got the first back together, I figure there has to be a better way to get these out. So I took the first bushing that I removed and checked it's size on the end of the C. It slid right thru!!
So for the second one this is what i did. Just use the socket and set the other side of the balljoint frame right up against the spring or hangar.


15 seconds later and ...

It's out!!!
Too easy!!!

So clean and install new.

A couple of hints. Doing the fixed mounts is harder than the shackles. The shackles will work against you when you try to line up the bolt hole!!!
So I get it started in the bracket then I try to get the height just right. Then use that big pry bar in the shackle to force the spring into position.
Hitting with a hammer will not work!!! They are springs!!
Put it in the space between the spring and the fixed mount.

The longer the bar the better.
You can, as an alternative, put the whole scout on stands and let the axle hang. Then just use the floor or bottle jack to lift the springs back into position.

So from there it is just repeat each one.
The right tools turns a 2 weekend job into 1 day!!

Bill USN-1
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