This first pic is the remnants of the filler neck after removal. Some previous owner had actually used duct tape to try to fix the cracks in the hose. That garbage had to go!
The filler neck I'm using came out of a '88 Mercury Grand Marquis. It's ideal in that it has 4 mounting holes and is the "screw" type cap rather than the "push-in-and-turn" style. Some other Ford/Lincoln/Mercury cars from the '88 year have the same filler neck style, that seems to be the magic year to look for.
The first pic shows the filler neck exactly as it's removed to the car. You can clearly see the four mounting holes.
The second pic shows a side view of the assembly. The mounting ring is welded onto the pipe. It's important to find a filler neck with this mounting ring welded as close as possible to the outside. The tolerances were not very tight at the factory, so this mounting ring can be welded really close like this particular one, or it can be welded inboard by as much as 1/4".
The third pic shows the cutoff filler neck housing. It's important to leave the baffle in there and make sure that you don't cut it off too short.
Prepping the quarter panel.
The filler neck mounting ring needs to sit flat on the body. The old mounting holes were stretched & bent from the mounting screws, so I held a hammer on the backside of the quarterpanel and used another hammer to flatten out the body.
Pic # 2 shows the new filler neck in place. The old mounting screw holes are just inside where the new ones need to go.
For the rubber hose from the filler neck to the gas tank, I used an upper radiator hose from a Scout II and cut it. Normally I use a lower radiator hose from a 4-cyl 80/800 and I can make two of them out of that one hose.
After positioning the hose in place and putting the filler neck on it, it was time to mount everything up.
I drilled new holes and used sheet metal screws to attach the filler neck to the body.
I then tightened up the hose clamps.
The final product.
The first pics show profile views to see how far it sticks out. It sticks out a little bit, but not enough to be ugly or snag on stuff on the trail. It really doesn't stick out much further than the door handles.
Total cost on this project was $7...which is what the gas cap & filler neck cost me at the junkyard.
The last pic shows my black Scout and the attached gas cap. Having the attachment ring helps you from losing the cap.
I did this conversion about 4-5 years ago on my black Scout and it works great with no problems whatsoever.
Hope this helps anyone who's interested. Any questions, just ask.
(Original discussion thread; http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=47143 )