Welcome to the World's Premier IH Website.

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Resource icon

Front Brake Job on a Scout II

2021 Arizona International Harvester Rendezvous
I just got started on the front brakes on Melissa's Traveler today, here is where I started, I first have to remove the wheel:

In this picture, the truck is supported by a jackstand:

And now a closeup:

First I had to remove the allen screws from the outer rim of the hub, and yes my finger is keeping it from kind of shooting out at me:

Hub rim removed:

Here is the backside of the hub:

Then I got started by removing this clip to pull the rest of the hub body off:

Interesting that when I exposed what should be a round nut with allen head scews, but it turned out to be a regular nut, and the washer behind it had two sides of it folded to keep the nut from turning:

Once that first nut was pulled, and the washer behind it, there was another identical nut and washer behind the second nut. With all that removed, here is where things got interesting:

This part has to be driven out, after removing the allen head screw holding it in:

Here is the spring part, and it looked to me to be slightly sprung:

Once those parts are out, the caliper comes off, and then the rotor/hub assembly comes off the front axle, which in this photo has already been cleaned:

Here is the hardware part #, and the rear seal for the rotor:

I won't go into great detail about packing the wheel bearings, but I also had to replace the rear bearing, as I fubarred and tapped it out with a drift punch, oops. But I put a new bearing and race in after repacking both the front and rear bearings with grease, and then reinstalled all of it on the axle:

Here is a break down of the Warn Hubs found on her truck:

Then I was going to go ahead and replace the front pads, and here are the old ones, starting with the inboard pad, with the pad surface up:

And another with it sitting on the front bumper:

The outboard pad, pad side up:

And another pad side up:

And this one to show how much outboard pad material was actually left:

Thanks for the tech tip Dennis, I will have one a little later in this thread. On with the passenger side, well I skipped some pictures on the driver's side that I didn't here, so lets get started. First I supported the passenger side, also on a jack stand. Here is the wheel, lug nuts removed:

Here is the wheel removed:

Next is a picture of where that allen head bolt goes/comes from:

Here is the same bolt removed:

And then the support "key" driven about halfway out:

And then the "key" is all the way removed:

This next one is just of the inspection "window" for the front pads:

With the key out, the caliper is moved out of the way, and tied up to anywhere, just to keep it from stretching the brake hose too much. Then I began by removing the allen bolts holding the outer hub, as shown in my previous pictures, so I will move on to the parts of the hub that got left out. With the cap removed, you first pull out this spring looking thing:

Then use the snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring inside, holding the hub to the shaft. This picture shows the snap ring, but do to the pliers I had, it was difficult to pull and shoot a picture at the same time:

With the hub off the shaft, here is how the Warn hubs come apart. First you have to remove this half-spring retainer:

Being careful as the inner hub is under slight spring pressure, keep a finger on the inner hub, slowly let it climb out of the outer hub, here is the inner hub:

And the spring that allows the unit to make the connection:

Here is all of that together, sort of in the order in which it was just removed:

Next up is the parts holding the bearings and the actual hub/rotor assembly to the spindle. First is the outer nut, held in place by a flat washer with two sides folded to keep the nut from backing off. The outer nut:

The washer that was bent, but I had to somewhat flatten it so I could get the outer nut off:

The inner nut, which is the one actually holding the washer that actually holds the bearings in:

Here is the inner washer, with the outside pointing towards you:

And the backside, what you see here is the telltale signs of what's coming up in a bit:

With that removed the outer bearing can be removed. Outer bearing partially cleaned up, this is looking at it from the backside(end that points towards the center of the truck):

And the outboard side:

Here is where I learned a trick at the parts store the other day. If you need to reuse the seal, like in the event you are off-roading and you don't have a spare seal handy, you thread the inner washer and inner nut back on the spindle some, pull slightly down, and straight out. This prevents the seal from being damaged beyond use, and allows you to essentially reuse it, however this one was installed poorly, so it will be replaced. But when you follow the above procedure and give it a good down and out yank, viola, you have this:

This was a picture of everything still on the spindle minus the rotor/hub assembly. Next is a picture of just the seal:

And then a staging of the parts removed, in the order in which they were removed:

Next is where things got real interesting real quick. I went ahead and started cleaning the hub out of the leftover grease still inside. I also cleaned up the spindle, notice to the right in this picture the slot that that snap ring goes into/comes out of when assembling/disassembling the outer hub parts from the inner axleshaft/hub/rotor assembly:

And the innermost part of the spindle that the seal rides near/on:

And another of the spindle:

And yes still another:

I also got out one of my new tools(JG you'll love this one), a Harbor Freight Bearing packer:

To be used by this:

At which point I had to first finish cleaning the hub. While cleaning it, I noticed that the inner bearing was actually spinning inside the hub! Oh no, maybe the bearing race was just worn out, so I went to the parts store and got another inner bearing(SET 47), as well as an outer bearing(SET 45). First I drove out the old race, and then used it to drive in the new one. After removing the old race this is what I found:

And this:

After driving in the new race, well the new one was spinning as well. Dag nabbit, now I need a whole new one of these:


Here is the hub from another angle, you can see the wear markings in it:

So I thought well lets start comparing the races, which are both TIMKENS, here is the old one:



And here is the new one with the old one, new race on top:

New race on the bottom:

For those of you that work with metal, you know what I am describing, but its kinda got a brownish tint to it, telling me that it has gotten way too hot. I guess it was a good thing I started this now, as at least two other Binder People have had an issue with this kind of thing and one was almost totally disasterous. So now I am at a standstill. I have to replace the hub. Does anyone have one? Just kidding, really I have a parts truck here, which hopefully at least one of those hubs should be fine for the time being. Now I pose a question that I searched for a few hours but have yet to figure out. Can the front axle of our Scout Dana 44's, be changed outer wise to be able to be supported by either aftermarket, or factory stuff, that is still available? If so, what is needed or what can be done, since none of the axle parts suppliers can get these:


Also I forgot to add some part numbers for those of you needing the information. I used Timken bearings and seals. Here are the part numbers of parts used:
Wheel seal, Part number 442874(Timken):

Front Disc Hardware Kit, H 5510(Duralast-Autozone's Brand):

And the allen head bolt to hold the key in the knuckle, H 5010(Brakeware-Also Autozone brand):

I also forgot to show a picture of the old driver's side key spring, so here is the old on bottom, new one on top:


Outer Bearing assembly, is a SET 45(Timken), and Inner Bearing assembly, SET 47(Timken)-I will post up pics of those boxes at a later time.
I also will need to get some new studs for that front wheel, I beat the tar out of 2(with a lug nut on them), and so I will post that part number when I get it. Project on hold for a bit till solution is reached(and I can then remove the plastic garbage bag holding the grease on the now exposed spindle).

Well its now 2 days since I picked up the part:

Whats funny is that it came with the following:

But look at the outside:

Then the inside:

It came with 5 new wheel studs, and the hub had BOTH the races for the bearing assemblies. The races appear to have the part numbers of Timkens, but I didn't want to drive them out and then redrive the other ones I had back in. Here is a comparison of the new and old side by side front side first:

And then the backside:

Okay, I did miss a step, but you can now follow along on the reverse of what I had done. The hub sits on top of the rotor, so you need to put the hub hub side down, then set the rotor on top of it, and align the wheel stud holes. I start with two studs on opposite sides, and then a third to kind of make a triangle. Here is what it should look like with the holes lined up before the studs are in:

Then a closeup for better view, this is with the three studs in a triangular positioning:

To do that I get out the trusty Eastwing, and a shot Craftsman 3/8 extension, for my "punch":

I carefully tap the studs in till they are flush with the rotor. After the three are in, then I do the remaining two. One of the studs refused to go flush, and even after putting a different one in and it still not seating all the way, I left it where it was, as when I hit it with the impact gun, that would pull it out the rest of the way. When you are done it should look like this:

Now its get dirty time. I got my SET 47 first and packed it full of grease. Then I packed the outer bearing the SET 45 full of grease. I then coated the races, as well as the inside portion between the bearing races with more grease. I set the inner bearing assembly in place, with the narrow side going to the outboard or away from the center of the vehicle, and I then tapped the wheel seal around and around, till I got it to seat flush with the back edge of the rotor/hub assembly. I usually just use a hammer for this, but to keep from really tearing up a seal, you can use a small chunk of 2x4 to tap it keeping the 2x4 paralell to the ground. Here is a picture of the studs from the front side:

And here is a picture of the assembly, with the grease in the center area, the inner bearing in place and seal in place:

The assembly is now ready for placement back onto the spindle. Lightly grease the spindle, like seen here:

Placing the assembly carefully onto the spindle, set it and hold it with one hand, while getting the outer bearing ready for placement, setting it with the narrow side facing in towards the vehicle, and then slide it onto the spindle and then into the hub, and into the race where it will then hold the entire rotor/hub assembly:

Here is another angle:

Next to go on is the inner washer, with the tang, for the slot in the spindle:

And then the inner nut. I tighten this one till its real snug, then back it off less than a 1/4 turn. Here is what it should look like:

Then the outer washer which also has a tang, goes on next:

Then the outer nut goes on next:

Now with the outer nut snug against the inner nut, the assembly is tightened against the inner washer. Once tight, then the edges of the washer are bent back up to keep the outer nut from coming loose or tightening up any further. Now the outer hub assembly can go back on, and looks like this:

Note, I did clean up the grease you see inside the hub, to ensure proper hub operation. Next to go on is the snap ring. You have to ensure that the axle shaft is outboard as far as possible. The trick I used to get the snap ring to go into its slot was to push away from the middle of the truck, basically grabbing a hold of the U-Joint area, and pulling towards you some. This will expose just enough of the shaft to be able to get that snap ring back on. Here is a shot with the snap ring going on:

Snap ring partially seated:

Snap ring totally seated:

Once the outer hub is held in l place by the snap ring, you can replace the bolts holding the outer hub, to the hub assembly. Then you replace the folded spring, and then the outer hub cap/actuation assembly, tightening down the six outer allen head screws that hold that into place. Now we are almost done. I cleaned off the upper and lower caliper slide areas, and applied hi-temp brake lube to the points of contact on the spindle assembly. Now I have to back the caliper piston back into its bore, being careful not to push it in at an angle. Once the piston is flush with the edge of the caliper, the inner pad can be replaced into its slot, and the outer pad can be placed over the edges of the caliper. Now the assembly gets put back into position, putting the lower edge of the caliper into the grooved area, and then the top portion should kind of fall right into place. I then lifted up from the bottom of the caliper, to allow the new key and keyspring, to be driven into place. Here is the key in its final position:

And here is the allen head bolt that holds the key in its place:

Here is what the top of the caliper should look like when its lined up and in its correct position:

And here is the final assembly, ready for the wheel to go back on:

Wheel on, and lugs tightened by impact gun:

I then lifted the truck from the passenger side, removed the jackstand, and lowered the truck onto its tire again. I left the driver's side up on the stand, till Melissa and I get the brakes rebled again, and see if we have the fluid/pressure problem totally worked out.

A majority of the reassembly is reversing the removal process. If needed, I can supply pictures or you can check out the Low Buck Truck thread:
Here I am documenting things way more thoroughly, so some of the reversing of the reinstall is still going to be similar, but some of the hub parts are different. I hope that I covered most of the bases. While I was hoping to now sit back and relax, it was scarf down a sandwich and head off to work. I hope that this thread was informative to those who have yet to start in on this kind of task, but some key points:

1. Make sure your work area is clean and clear

2. Have all your tools within arms distance when possible. I kept having to get up and down to fetch tools, since I am working on two different trucks at the same time, and I have been using the same tools to do both jobs.

3. Inspect all components thoroughly. Had I not been thorough, I wouldn't have caught the spinning race, and thus might have lost or damaged parts beyond my scope of repair.

4. Find out what parts your local parts stores carry in stock, and which ones take 1 or more days to get. Part of my issue was that I had to wait to order a part which had to be done on a Friday, and then once it was ordered, it took almost a week to get. All the bearings and seals should be available at most retail parts places same or next day.

5. Have a helper. If I had had Melissa helping, she could have shot the photos, and I could have made the repairs, thus speeding some of this process up. Normal total time, should be about half a day. I could have done it in that, having had done this one other time.

6. Use your resources. I had never experienced the spinning race issue before. I have owned 3 police cars all which had more than 100k on them, and all had their original hub/rotor assemblies. While those vehicles did have much better PM than unknown 30+year old iron, they still needed thorough inspections, and when I found the problem highlighted here, I turned to this site, as well as other IH owners who had actually experienced the aftermath of not performing this job upon receipt of ownership of said vehicle. I actually had two different IH owners on the phone this week helping one of them with the snap ring issue, which is located in another thread.

I hoped you have gained some knowledge of your truck now, and if you have any questions, feel free to PM or email me, and I can further assist you in either troubleshooting, or advising how to proceed with any issues that arise.

First release
Last update
5.00 star(s) 1 ratings