IHC Inline 6 Discussion Group

[Molten_Heel]

Yes, pressurized the oil gallies. I have engine running now and have full pressure. Just waqs a little hesitant, I guess. Thanks, running great.

[jvc760]

Hi everybody,

I Have a B160 with a BG241 engine.
Now this truck has been standing still for more than 20 years. now this weekend i have tried of the engine was loose. and by wonder the engine was turning pretty well by hand. i have bought this week, new spark plugs, new ingnition cables, new rotor and delco cap.
What are the things that i must do before i try to start the engine again?
First thing that i'm gonna do is change the engine oil. does anyone know how many litres oil this engine need? i think about 7 litres 15w40

Thank you all in advance for your answers!

[Vern0n]

You'll probably need a set of points, or at least file the old ones. May need to clean out the carb and gas tank.

[jvc760]

the points are all in very good condition.
I have cleaned the whole carb out.
How can i see when the engine is on his TDC (top dead point) with the first cylinder?

Many thanks for the reply!

[Vern0n]

I think I am missing something on this question. Just align the timming marks, (timing marks on flywheel) with rotor pointing to number 1 cylinder. Is this what your asking?

[jvc760]

Yes, that was my question.
But on the flywheel, aren't any timming marks to find, so now i can't find when the rotor is pointing the 1 cylinder.

[Bill usn-1]

pull the #1 plug and bump the eng over with your thumb over the hole.
Or use a cork lightly installed in the the hole.
When the air blows your thumb ot the cork off the hole then you are approaching TDC of the #1 cyl.
You should see the timing mark close to the pointer and the rotor should be getting close to the #1 wire. If the distr was put correctly.
You should also see the points just getting ready to open as the lobe on the the distr cam approaches the points wear block..

When the points just crack open is where where your timing is set when looking at the timing marks.

[jvc760]

Thanks for the answer!

[olman hylton]

Rebuilding your 240 would be fine, but make sure you have a tilt-valve engine before you waste any money rebuilding anything.

Rebuilding a straight valve engine is not worth it unless you are going for restoration points or wanting to win the Ornas award.

For driver L-6 IH engines, the Tilt Valve is where the good stuff is at.

-John

welll,,,,, now i have a new twist and in search of lots of information.
I ended up buying a 264 from a guy in Canada. but----- the number stencilled just behind the water pump on the engine block says "B264".
SO,,, did Canada do something different ??? The engine came out of a 1963 rig and having looked at diagrams at NAPA,,, it is my guess that it is a tilt-264 (based on the gasket set --- there were two and the value cover on the one set is just like mine,,, and that was for a 264 tilt... Now I thought that the 264 as BD or BLD... hmmmmmmmm.

The numbers on the block itself are "236193R1" with "L2" to the right just a bit. does this tell me anything ???

Also there were various numbers on the carb. It was a "CARTER" made for the chrysler corp with the following numbers "C1654" amd "K8" and "E7T2" - any idea what the CFM might be ???

My goal is still to turn my 1955 T-ALL into my tow rig. I notice that the motor mounts are a bit different - but got the front mounting plate out of the doner rig.
any information would be most helpful like where to find pistons, main bearings, car rebuild kit, fuel pump, etc. etc.

I hope to rebuild the engine this winter so that I can tow my travel trailer to the next summer festivities (next meet - powerland, in oregon ???).

thanx in advance for your considerations of my inquiries
Kris Hylton (cell = 360.219.7405) :

[olman hylton]

and while I'm at it... any suggestions for parts (discounts) would be most helpful. I do most of my shopping in Longview Washington but make occational trips to Centrailia, Chehalis, and Portland - Oregon...

thanx again...