Hey Binder Dudes,
Welcome your newest member to these rad forums. Just picked up a 1978 Scout 2 Traveler this weekend, and she's a 98% rust free beauty who spent most of her existence in California. IH345, and unmolested.
Anyway, I've been hitting the forums pretty hard since then trying to fix the oil pressure, fuel, and temperature gauges which were all reading 0. I started on the assumption that the CVR had gone bad, purchased a BWD R307 [$44.00 @ Advance Auto at the time this was posted] and soldered it in (details for which can be found elsewhere in the forum). Gauges still didn't work. Next stop was soldering the pins found at the back of the gauge. They can wiggle loose and lose their connection to the PCB. Still nothing. Cleaned up the #11 wire grounds for the gauge clusters, which can be found terminating at the in-dash speaker, still nothing.
An /automotive electrical gauge/ really helped sort things out. After having done all the above, I picked one up and was able to measure resistance for each pin to gauge and the grounds and also the #28A wire which feeds power to the gauges (schematics for the wires can be found on these forums). Everything was clear except for the #28A wire, which wasn't giving a reading between the connector and fuse. If you tear through some electrical tape in the harness, you'll find what looks like a fuse/resistor inline with a male and female end to it. It has a rubber sheath around it. I determined that this was the break in the #28A, and after cutting open the sheath, found that there was a wire which had come undone from its solder point.
Soldered it up, did some more checking with the automotive electrical gauge, and now everything is working tip top. Using an electrical gauge really takes the guesswork out of this kind of task. You need to have one.
Hopefully this will help for some of you keep those stock gauges in your trucks.
08-30-2010, 08:12 PM
A solution for some fuel, oil pressure, and temperature gauges that aren not working.
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