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  #21  
Old 10-02-2010, 07:37 PM
gregor gregor is offline
Farmall Cub
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 249
Default Re: Build advice

What I did;

- Got the alternator (The monkeys at the counter gave me blank stares when I tried to explain what I wanted, so I just told them I wanted a 100 amp alt from a 1982 Cadillac El Dorado Diesel)

- Measured the gap on the alt for the lower mount

- Made a piece of c-channel, a few inches long, out of a couple pieces of steel angle (I had the angle, but no c-channel. You might be able to find the right size c-channel instead of making it, but it was Sunday, everything was closed, so I just made it myself). Drilled the hole for the alt mounting bolt, and inserted a piece of square tubing across the gap so it wouldn't compress as the mounting bolts are tightened. I didn't take any pictures when I made it, but I attached a diagram of basically what it looks like.

- My Scout originally had air conditioning, and I had removed it. That left a big flat horizontal plate just below and in front of the IP on the passenger side of the engine compartment (does a non-air conditioned Scout have this?) I bolted the bracket to this plate, and mounted the alt to the bracket. This also left a lot more room for adjustment of the power steering pump, but I had to modify the upper PS pump bracket as it used to connect to the alternator.

- For the upper alt mount, I used a turnbuckle, one end attached to the alt and the other attached to a bracket just below the fuel filter that was probably meant for the air conditioning compressor. It would be pretty easy to make a bracket from scratch if necessary for the top.

Now, I can have all my electrics full bore (lights, fans, wipers, etc) and I've still got a solid 13V, but this does put an extra draw on the engine, so it idles slower when I have everything running at once.
Attached Images
File Type: png Bracket.png (37.2 KB, 23 views)
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1965 Travelall 1100
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  #22  
Old 10-02-2010, 08:02 PM
watermunky watermunky is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Princeton, MN
Posts: 151
Default Re: Build advice

Here is hopefully the last disassembly...


And the damage.
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  #23  
Old 10-02-2010, 08:09 PM
watermunky watermunky is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Princeton, MN
Posts: 151
Default Re: Build advice

Quote:
Originally Posted by gregor View Post
If it hasn't been done already (I didn't see any mention of this in the thread), convert your brake booster to hydroboost, and you can sell that part along with the stock alternator to some poor soul that needs it. Not only will you have far more responsive braking, you can also then swap your alternator for another that is far less expensive and better at producing electricity.

Another upgrade I would suggest while the engine is out is to consider some sound deadening / proofing in the engine compartment, which can be done with the engine in place but it's much easier when it's out.
I think I might try and tackle the hydroboost. if anyone has any tips I am all ears. I will also probably try to do something about the sound but unless I want to spend a bit of money on dynamat the only thing I can think of is undercoating or rhino lining.
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  #24  
Old 10-03-2010, 07:20 PM
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bluescout bluescout is offline
High Wheeler
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Marlborough, MA
Posts: 1,050
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Default Re: Build advice

Here's pics of my fab

http://www.summit-pc.com/rob/scoutbracket/
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  #25  
Old 10-03-2010, 07:44 PM
lindstromjd lindstromjd is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Hurlburt Field, FL
Posts: 206
Default Re: Build advice

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Originally Posted by bluescout View Post
Awesome. I think I can duplicate that. Thanks!!
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  #26  
Old 10-03-2010, 07:47 PM
lindstromjd lindstromjd is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Hurlburt Field, FL
Posts: 206
Default Re: Build advice

Quote:
Originally Posted by watermunky View Post
I think I might try and tackle the hydroboost. if anyone has any tips I am all ears. I will also probably try to do something about the sound but unless I want to spend a bit of money on dynamat the only thing I can think of is undercoating or rhino lining.
Hydro boost is super easy to install. Only mod I had to make was drilling out the holes in the firewall for the mount, and a splice to lengthen one of the pressure lines.
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  #27  
Old 10-06-2010, 05:33 PM
watermunky watermunky is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Princeton, MN
Posts: 151
Default Re: Build advice

Another batch of photos uploaded and money downloaded
Here is the new clutch going in the truck.

Clutch disc looks a little different but all the sizes checked out. Any reason this shouldn't work?

And here is the new gauges that will go in the truck.


$180 for clutch, throw-out bearing, and disc.
$230 for gauges.
Not too bad I guess
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  #28  
Old 10-06-2010, 06:42 PM
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David Dixon David Dixon is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Bath, Maine
Posts: 739
Default Re: Build advice

Quote:
Originally Posted by watermunky View Post
Another batch of photos uploaded and money downloaded
Here is the new clutch going in the truck.

Clutch disc looks a little different but all the sizes checked out. Any reason this shouldn't work?

$180 for clutch, throw-out bearing, and disc.
$230 for gauges.
Not too bad I guess
In the photo the clutch disc appears to be backwards. Hope it didn't get installed that way.
-D
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'80 Scout Diesel - Somewhat modified , currently resting, awaiting a new windshield and new body panels (Like, most all of 'em.)

'78 Traveler, 345, auto, totally stock.
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  #29  
Old 10-06-2010, 07:29 PM
watermunky watermunky is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Princeton, MN
Posts: 151
Default Re: Build advice

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Dixon View Post
In the photo the clutch disc appears to be backwards. Hope it didn't get installed that way.
-D
not installed yet. So to double check, the protruding part in the second pic goes against the flywheel?
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  #30  
Old 10-06-2010, 07:52 PM
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David Dixon David Dixon is offline
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Location: Bath, Maine
Posts: 739
Default Re: Build advice

Quote:
Originally Posted by watermunky View Post
not installed yet. So to double check, the protruding part in the second pic goes against the flywheel?
The protruding side of the clutch disc fits inside the recess in the flywheel, the flat side faces the clutch cover.
-D
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'80 Scout Diesel - Somewhat modified , currently resting, awaiting a new windshield and new body panels (Like, most all of 'em.)

'78 Traveler, 345, auto, totally stock.
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aftermarket , air cleaner , bell housing , build , crank , engine , exhaust , filter , front , gauges , oil , parts , plug , pyrometer , relay , scout , scout ii , sd33 , sd33t , spin on , steering , tach , truck , turbo , water

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