Which carb is this? Will upgrading to a larger air filter help?

[Mark Pietz]

I don't understand the animus towards the 2210. I put a gazillion miles (only a slight exaggeration) on mine and it worked fine. It is a very simple carb (a float, two jets and a powervalve) and unless someone has messed it up or the throttle shaft is worn (but any carb has the same potential issue), I can't see what the problem is. I also got 15 mpg routinely with my 345.

[Joey Link]

Originally Posted by Mark Pietz

I don't understand the animus towards the 2210. I put a gazillion miles (only a slight exaggeration) on mine and it worked fine. It is a very simple carb (a float, two jets and a powervalve) and unless someone has messed it up or the throttle shaft is worn (but any carb has the same potential issue), I can't see what the problem is. I also got 15 mpg routinely with my 345.

I'm going to take the advice given in this thread and have a competent shop try to tune the engine and this carb before replacing it. I've heard from quite a few 2210 owners who never had a problem. My worry is that this is a rebuilt carb and the jets and whatnot may not be optimal for the 345. I certainly don't get 15mpg, but that is my goal, along with good starting manners. Can you tell me more about your scout, such as lift (if any), tire size, gear ratio, auto/manual, etc.?

[Ristin]

Manual chokes are forbidden in California on a smog check. What is Oregon's take?

[Joey Link]

Really? Wow!

I don't think there's any sort of visual inspection here, other than them checking to make sure the cat is there.

[Mark Pietz]

Joey,
It had the generic 31.5" tires, 3.31 gears, a 727 trans. Had all the Ca smog stuff on it, and the engine was in very good shape. I wouldn't drive it over 65 mph. That mileage was on flat land, steady throttle. When I converted over to the TQ, I could get 16, but in the balance I wouldn't go that route if all is working properly with a 2210.

[Eric VanBuren]

If you have no visual inspection then you just have to pass the sniffer which in most cases for a vehicle the standards are very lienient and if you fail your engine is barely running. See if you can find what the standards are in OR and post them before you go any further. I'm not up to speed on the OR standards and procedures but you don't want to spend a dime on it before you have the test since if you fail you can sometimes get a waiver if you spend over a certain dollar amount on work that is apropriate to correct the particular failure you exhibited.

[Joey Link]

That's correct Eric, it's just the sniffer test, no visual. It doesn't look like Oregon has any type of waiver program either, it's strictly pass/fail.

[Eric VanBuren]

Originally Posted by Joey Link

That's correct Eric, it's just the sniffer test, no visual. It doesn't look like Oregon has any type of waiver program either, it's strictly pass/fail.

Even still you are likely better off getting it tested before you take it to someone. It may pass as is since the standards for those years are pretty leinent, it may fail by a small margin that may be a quick simple fix that we can talk you through once you post the results and standards.

Again I don't know about OR but up north here you get a free retest if you fail. Even if it's not free it is likely going to be cheaper than the "full tune up" a shop will likely sell you even though all you need is a 1/4 turn of the mixture screws.

[Joey Link]

Originally Posted by Eric VanBuren

Even still you are likely better off getting it tested before you take it to someone. It may pass as is since the standards for those years are pretty leinent, it may fail by a small margin that may be a quick simple fix that we can talk you through once you post the results and standards.

Again I don't know about OR but up north here you get a free retest if you fail. Even if it's not free it is likely going to be cheaper than the "full tune up" a shop will likely sell you even though all you need is a 1/4 turn of the mixture screws.

Yeah down here if you don't pass you don't pay, so we can run it through as many times as we need. Many of my past vehicles I've failed, drove down the street, adjusted the idle screws, and drove back for an immediate re-test.

I don't think I'll have any problem getting it through emissions again, providing I can figure out when it's hesitating off of idle. I just want to get it tuned because I know it should start better, run better, and get better fuel mileage

[Carl Wiese]

Originally Posted by Ristin

Manual chokes are forbidden in California on a smog check. What is Oregon's take?

Oregon could care less.