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#1
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I recently noticed a leak in my heater core so I had to replace it. I figured I'd share the process with pix for future searchers to reference.
I first noticed that my defroster on the windshield was actually depositing moisture on the glass and wouldn't evaporate until it was running for about half an hour. I also noticed the smell of mouse pee that I hadn't smelled since I first bought this Scout 10 years ago. I cleaned it pretty thoroughly at that time, I thought I had another mouse. Actually it was a pile of mouse crap packed under the flapper door in the heater duct. Last edited by toomanycars; 01-03-2010 at 04:12 PM. |
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#2
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The original heater housing on my 73 was kind of rusty and filled with mouse crap so i decided to use the housing from a 1980 I had on the shelf. It had a good heater core as well. The cores are the same size but the fittings on the 73 are turned 90deg where the ones on the 1980 are straight.
The housings are also the same size but with minor differences. The fan mounting for the '80 is bigger so you could use a 1980 fan in an early housing but you can't put an early fan in a later housing. The squirrel cage on the later fans is plastic and the motor/fan assembly is much lighter as well. The connections are different too. The early fan has two leads, hi and low, the later fan has one lead but has the resistors inserted into the duct. Last edited by toomanycars; 01-03-2010 at 09:09 PM. |
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#3
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Here's the wiring schematic if you're using a later housing in an early Scout II. You'll have to cut the connector ad wires off the original motor or use some male blade connectors to plug into the stock plug.
The resistors are mounted the way they are to keep them cool with airflow in the duct. |
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#4
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The foam rubber sealing gaskets inside the housing were crusty, oily and brittle so I had to make some new ones. I found some foam rubber at Orchard Supply, they have it in sheets, I bought some 1/8 and 1/4 inch thick.
I made a pattern and cut out my new gaskets. The ends of the heater core get 1/4" rubber and the top/bottom of the core get 1/8" rubber. Last edited by toomanycars; 01-03-2010 at 01:13 AM. |
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#5
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Once I had all the gaskets made I put it all back in the housing, I had to squish it pretty hard to get the screws started but that just means it has a good seal. I also put a little black RTV on the seams to keep any underhood fumes out of the cabin.
The straight vs turned fittings didn't turn out to be a problem at all except that I had to re-route one of the hoses instead of replacing it with one that was 6" longer. It was already three feet long so I just moved it and was able to make it shorter by about 18". Last edited by toomanycars; 01-03-2010 at 01:14 AM. |
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#6
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Does the later model larger fan produce more airflow?
__________________
My Project Page '73 Scout II 345 PS A/C PB AT MegaSquirt EFI / EDIS "It does not take a majority to prevail... but rather an irate, tireless minority, keen on setting brushfires of freedom in the minds of men" - Samuel Adams |
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#7
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I haven't noticed more flow, I would guess it's the same or a little more but it is definitely quieter.
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#8
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Thanks for the write up and pics.
Brett
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'75 DD (in the works) all fiberglass 392 T-19 wide STaK OD 2.72s cabtop '76 (in the works) Scout II cab - flat bed 392 T-19 wide Klune-V David LoMax 205 5.13s D60 14 bolt 1-link rear cabtop '77 DD 345 automatic D20 3.54 travltop
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#9
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Perhaps you should hire a cat to guard the inside of the Scout.
Great write up and awesome pics! Brian
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1978 Scout II -Just about done (for now). |
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#10
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cool write up
is that pile of crap from while the box was in the vehicle????
__________________
75 scout II XLC 345, 2brrl, T-15D, Dana 20, Dana 44's, Metalic blue paint, soft top, cd, cb, CJ rims. 68 Scout 800 266 4speed. hard top. d44 rear skid plate,some body work to make it legal, cherry bomb duals, tracker gas tank in rear, cheep bedlinered outside.
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| Tags |
| 1980 , cage , dash , door , engine , glass , heater core , photos , pictures , plug , pulling , scout , scout ii , screws , top , truck , windshield , wiring |
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