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#21
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Order cool part http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=793117 Looks like ![]() Looks like the back will out flex the front. For now........... Brett
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'75 DD (in the works) all fiberglass 392 T-19 wide STaK OD 2.72s cabtop '76 (in the works) Scout II cab/cabtop - tube bed 392 T-19 wide Klune-V David LoMax 205 5.13s D60 14 bolt 1-link rear cabtop '77 DD 345 automatic D20 3.54 traveltop
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#22
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I have been looking at those, still deciding if i want to 1 or 4 link... any advice?
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1967 scout 800 |
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#23
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From what I've read the 1 link is brutally strong, is easy to setup, and has tons of flex. The only disadvantage is the pan hard bar. The 4 link has a lot more geometry to take into account.
The other things I've surmised on my own is that on the 1 link there is very little difference in the driveshaft length as the suspension moves up and down. So you do not spend additional money on a long slip yoke. Also, the way I am building the the "Y" that connects the ball to the axle it will act as a skidplate for virtually the entire underside from the transfer case output to the axle. There will be no way anything can hit the driveshaft. It will also act as a stiffener for the rear axle, eliminating flex between the axle tubes and the carrier. Either one allows you to bob the rear end anywhere from the axle centerline back. So no overhang in the rear. Brett
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'75 DD (in the works) all fiberglass 392 T-19 wide STaK OD 2.72s cabtop '76 (in the works) Scout II cab/cabtop - tube bed 392 T-19 wide Klune-V David LoMax 205 5.13s D60 14 bolt 1-link rear cabtop '77 DD 345 automatic D20 3.54 traveltop
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#24
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I like the ideas of a 1 link mainly for the skidplate idea like you said, also it is much cheaper. The only thing i am worried about is having a single point of failure. I have been going back and forth reading articles on pirate 4x4 and it seems like it is solid, people that run it love it, people that run 4-links think it isnt stable... might just be that they dont like the idea of the same flex with alot less work :P
Thanks for the help, still a ways before i actually rig up the suspension just good to have other peoples thoughts on things.
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1967 scout 800 |
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#25
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ok im sold i think im going to double 1 link(front and back)
I was on the fence about both ideas but you helped push me over ![]() i have seen that thread on pirate 4x4 a few times now that the last guy posted his build photos i like how it looks alot more! gonna order a pair and see what happens. most of the other builds i saw with it looked weird or weak, this new one looks much stronger and makes me feel better. After talking it over with my dad we arent as far away as i thought, just depends on how fast we get engine stuff mounted.
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1967 scout 800 Last edited by G_Man; 11-10-2009 at 04:32 PM. |
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#26
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A little more grinding, enlarge the holes just a little bit and here you go.
![]() I think I'm done with it for a bit now, except for drilling a couple of holes up from the bottom for a couple of bolts that bolt the winch in from the bottom. I need to get serious about the real frame now. Brett
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'75 DD (in the works) all fiberglass 392 T-19 wide STaK OD 2.72s cabtop '76 (in the works) Scout II cab/cabtop - tube bed 392 T-19 wide Klune-V David LoMax 205 5.13s D60 14 bolt 1-link rear cabtop '77 DD 345 automatic D20 3.54 traveltop
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#27
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I was able to cut one of the sets of spacers that go in the front spring hanger to position the spring at the right width.
Here is a picture of the plasma cut on some 5/8" metal facing you. It looks better than most of my cuts on 1/2" and smaller. The cut on the right edge was done very improperly and I shouldn't have attempted it. ![]() Not much grinding to do here. Brett
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'75 DD (in the works) all fiberglass 392 T-19 wide STaK OD 2.72s cabtop '76 (in the works) Scout II cab/cabtop - tube bed 392 T-19 wide Klune-V David LoMax 205 5.13s D60 14 bolt 1-link rear cabtop '77 DD 345 automatic D20 3.54 traveltop
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#28
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There is some right here. Kind of finished this yesterday and today. This the new front passenger spring hanger looking from the front. The top notch will slide in from the bottom and be bolted to a piece across the top of the frame, completely boxing the frame. The bottom notch is 2.75" wide, the width of the RS44044 spring. The offset between the two will allow the spring to line up with the D60 front.
![]() Now the question is where's the quarter in the picture. This is a lot thicker than the 3/16" plate the factory used for the front spring hanger. The "thin" pieces are 0.4" thick.Brett
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'75 DD (in the works) all fiberglass 392 T-19 wide STaK OD 2.72s cabtop '76 (in the works) Scout II cab/cabtop - tube bed 392 T-19 wide Klune-V David LoMax 205 5.13s D60 14 bolt 1-link rear cabtop '77 DD 345 automatic D20 3.54 traveltop
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#29
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Have you figured the tonage of that thing after the mods LOL
Keep up the good work, and keep up the pics, you know how we love pics I need to get disciplined with my time usage of the internet as well
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President Gulf Coast Binders 75 SII 304 4 speed 65 80 152 3 speed 77 SII 345 Automatic 75 SII NO engine or trans 74 3/4 ton Wagonmaster 392IC 4 speed 4x4 74 SII 196 4 speed 76 SII 196 4 speed 80 SII turbo diesel 4 speed |
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#30
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Yesterday was mostly getting trees trimmed and other stuff cut out so I can get the frame into the back yard. I also made a jig to cut the front spring shackle hangers.
Which should look like this Side view - ![]() Front view - ![]() Hopefully after dinner I can get all 4 cut out while the girls are at a Girl Scout meeting. Brett
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'75 DD (in the works) all fiberglass 392 T-19 wide STaK OD 2.72s cabtop '76 (in the works) Scout II cab/cabtop - tube bed 392 T-19 wide Klune-V David LoMax 205 5.13s D60 14 bolt 1-link rear cabtop '77 DD 345 automatic D20 3.54 traveltop
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| axle , bar , build , cage , case , drum , engine , frame , front , hanger , key , project , radiator , rear , roll , roll cage , scout , shackle , start , suspension , switch , top , truck , warn , winch |
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